Ishikari Nabe Salmon Hot Pot: Where to Eat (Hokkaido)

Ishikari nabe is a hot pot that represents Hokkaido, starring salmon prepared in a miso base. It takes its name from the Ishikari River up which salmon swim to spawn, and is said to have been spread to the wider world by Kindaitei, a restaurant near the river mouth said to have been founded in 1880. Salmon flesh and trimmings, tofu and plenty of vegetables are simmered in a kelp stock miso soup, warming the body to the core in cold winter. September 15 is regarded as Ishikari Nabe Day, and locals cherish the dish as one that announces the arrival of the salmon season.

Highlights

• A miso base broth infused with rich savor from the salmon flesh and trimmings
• Plenty of vegetables such as tofu, onion, daikon radish and green onion
• Each household adds depth with hidden touches of sake lees, butter or milk
• The traditional way of finishing with a sprinkle of sansho pepper to lift the aroma

Enjoying the Seasons

Autumn into winter, when salmon comes into season, is the true time for ishikari nabe, and gathering around a large pot to savor it piping hot is the heart of the experience. Gathering around a steaming pot in the deep snow season warms both heart and body. Adding rice or udon at the end to enjoy the broth that has drawn out the savor is also recommended.

Access and Basic Information

• Area: enjoyed at local cuisine restaurants in Ishikari and around Sapporo
• Access: the founding long established restaurant remains near the Ishikari River mouth
• Price range: varies by shop, from about 1500 yen per serving
• Note: a classic winter hot pot also made in homes

Practical Travel Notes

• Timing and season: autumn into winter, when salmon is in season, is the true time, and more local cuisine restaurants serve it then. Some shops need preparation or a reservation for hot pot dishes, so checking ahead is reassuring.
• Tips for tasting: some shops let you order a single serving, but a hot pot is best shared among several people so you can take your time through to the finishing course. Including the rice or udon at the end makes it very satisfying, well suited to a leisurely dinner.
• Nearby spots: besides the Ishikari River mouth said to be its birthplace, it can be enjoyed at local cuisine restaurants within Sapporo, making it easy to combine with city sightseeing.
• Budget: a rough guide is from around 1500 yen per serving, and given that you can enjoy a hearty pot through to the finish, it is a very satisfying dish.

A Quick Tip

Since the salmon trimmings also yield good stock, it is best to enjoy not just the flesh but the broth as well. A single sprinkle of sansho pepper at the finish lifts the aroma of the miso even further. Only by enjoying it down to the rice at the end do you taste the true worth of ishikari nabe.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• The authentic preparation: The official website of Ishikari City explains that the authentic version uses chunks of salmon flesh together with \"ara\" (trimmings such as the backbone), to which cabbage, onion, tofu and thread konnyaku are added, seasoned with miso and finished with a sprinkling of sansho pepper.
• How to find it: Ishikari City publishes on its official website the list of restaurants belonging to the Ishikari-nabe section of the \"Ishikari Local Production for Local Consumption Shops\" scheme (Kindaitei, Barato Garden, Chisan Chisho Tomiki, Shuan Masuya and others).
• The restaurant where it originated: Kindaitei (1 Shinmachi, Ishikari City). Open 11:00-19:00, with irregular closing days and reservations required. About 40 minutes from the Sapporo-kita IC on the Sasson Expressway.
• Events: At the \"Ishikari Salmon Festival\" held around Benten Rekishi-dori, an Ishikari-nabe known as the \"hot pot for a thousand people,\" prepared for a thousand servings at once, makes an appearance (the dates vary from year to year).

Note: Opening hours and prices differ from restaurant to restaurant.

(Sources: Ishikari City official website \"Ishikari-nabe\" and \"The Three Great Autumn Festivals of Ishikari City\"; Ishikari Tourism Association official website; HOKKAIDO LOVE!, the official Hokkaido tourism website, \"Ishikari-nabe\")

Sources of Information

This article is compiled from tourism information published by Ishikari City and Hokkaido and from information published by the individual restaurants. Prices and menus differ by restaurant and may change, so please check the official information of each restaurant for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From around a thousand yen per serving, with course menus also available at specialist restaurants
• Where to eat it: Restaurants serving local cuisine in Ishikari, Sapporo and elsewhere in Hokkaido
• Recommended time of day: The season is autumn to winter, and it is mainly an evening dish
• Avoiding the crowds: Popular restaurants get busy on winter weekends. Reservations are recommended
• Enjoy it together with: Rice porridge made in the leftover broth, butter and sansho pepper as condiments, and local Hokkaido sake