Tsuetate Onsen

Along the Tsuetate River that runs the border between Kumamoto and Oita, inns crowd both banks in what is Tsuetate Onsen. Steam rises from the floor of the gorge and narrow lanes twist through the town, filling it with a nostalgia that feels like stepping back in time. It has long been cherished as a place for healing retreats.

Highlights

Much of Tsuetate charm lies in wandering the maze-like back lanes known as sedoya. Follow the stone steps and passages and you come upon foot baths and small stone guardians in unexpected corners, with all the fun of exploring. Steaming pits fed by geothermal vapor are a local specialty, where you can cook eggs and vegetables in the rising heat. The sight of steam drifting up when viewed from the riverside is a mood found only here.

Enjoying the Seasons

From spring into early summer, a festival sends countless carp streamers swimming above the river, coloring the gorge in bright hues. Summer brings a cooling river breeze through the valley, and autumn dresses the surrounding mountains in red and gold. In winter the steam rises thicker still, and the warmth of the baths after a lane-side stroll sinks pleasantly in.

Access and Basic Information

Tsuetate lies in Oguni, in the Aso district of Kumamoto Prefecture, right against the Oita border. By car, travelers usually come from the direction of Hita in Oita or from Aso. Public transport centers on buses, so it helps to check the number of services in advance. Hours for the steaming pits and foot baths can change by facility and season.

A Quick Tip

The lanes are hilly and tangled, so wear comfortable shoes for your stroll. At the steaming pits, be sure to try cooking and eating local ingredients in the vapor.