Izumo Soba: A Local Food Guide for Visitors (Shimane)

Loved in the home of Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine, this is a signature local soba of Shimane. Made by the "hikigurumi" method, in which the buckwheat is milled whole with its husk on a stone mill, the noodles are dark in color with a strong aroma and firm bite. Serving the soba in round lacquered bowls called "warigo," stacked three high, and pouring the broth directly over it is the Izumo style. It is counted among Japan's three great soba, alongside Togakushi soba of Nagano and wanko soba of Iwate.

Highlights

With warigo soba, the etiquette is to move the broth from the top bowl to the next as you eat. Condiments such as nori, green onion, dried bonito flakes, and grated daikon are added, letting you enjoy a change of flavor with each tier. It is said that when Naomasa Matsudaira, the first lord of the Matsue domain, was transferred from Matsumoto in 1638, he brought soba artisans with him, giving soba its start in this region. Owing to this connection, February 11 is designated "Izumo Soba Day." In 2022 it was also certified as a "100-Year Food" by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. Long-established shops line the Shinmon-dori approach, and many people eat their way along it as part of a shrine visit.

Seasonal Enjoyment

Warigo soba, enjoyed with cold broth, can be savored year-round, but autumn, when new-crop soba appears, is especially fragrant. In the cold season, the warm "kamaage soba," served generously in its cooking water, is also popular and warms you from the core. For kamaage soba, the boiled noodles are served in their cooking water without being chilled, and diners pour in the broth to taste, which highlights the soba's natural flavor and aroma. Trying both styles before or after your shrine visit is recommended.

Access and Basic Information

The famous Izumo soba shops are concentrated around Izumo Taisha, especially along Shinmon-dori. From JR Izumoshi Station, take an Ichibata bus toward the shrine, or ride the Ichibata Electric Railway to Izumotaisha-mae Station. Since each shop has its own character in broth and noodle thickness, comparing them is a treat.

One Piece of Advice

With warigo, the basic move is to pour the broth from top to bottom. Diluting the leftover broth with soba-yu (the cooking water) lets you enjoy it to the last drop. Popular shops get crowded around midday, so visiting off-peak allows a more relaxed meal.

Practical Travel Notes

• With warigo soba, the Izumo style is to "pour" the broth. Rather than dipping as with zaru soba, you pour the condiments and broth directly over the noodles.
• The basic order is to move the broth left in the first bowl to the second, and then the third. It is a rational etiquette born of the stacked-bowl culture.
• Because the buckwheat is milled whole with its husk by the hikigurumi method, the noodles are dark and strongly aromatic. The deep color is not a sign of low quality but the essence of Izumo soba.
• The nearest stop for the front of Izumo Taisha is Izumotaisha-mae Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway. Combine a ride on the retro trains with eating your way along Shinmon-dori.
• Popular shops tend to form lines at lunchtime, so arriving right at opening or avoiding the midday peak reduces the wait.