Suzuki Hoshoyaki: Local Food Guide (Shimane)

Hoshoyaki is a traditional Matsue dish in which sea bass caught in Lake Shinji is wrapped in hosho paper and steam-baked. Wrapping it in paper steams the flesh until plump while excess fat drips away, yielding a refined flavor. Counted among the Seven Delicacies of Lake Shinji, it is a dish that symbolizes Matsue's refined food culture.

Highlights

The origin of hoshoyaki is tied to an anecdote about Fumai Matsudaira, the lord known as a tea master. During a hunt by the lake, a fisherman is said to have wrapped a freshly caught sea bass in hosho paper and placed it in the ashes where he was roasting sweet potatoes, then presented it, and this is regarded as the beginning. The aroma that rises the moment the paper is opened and the refined moistness of the white flesh are its charm. Sea bass is cited as the foremost of the Seven Delicacies of Lake Shinji (sea bass, moroge shrimp, eel, pond smelt, whitebait, carp, and shijimi), and it stands out strikingly in Matsue's kaiseki cuisine.

Seasonal Enjoyment

Sea bass appears widely in winter markets, but it is said that its flesh fattens and its savor deepens in summer, when the firm flesh is ideal for hoshoyaki. Many shops serve it year-round, so it can be enjoyed regardless of season. Savoring the lake's bounty while gazing at the Lake Shinji sunset is exceptional. Enjoying it alongside the other delicacies is also recommended.

Access and Basic Information

Hoshoyaki can be enjoyed in the kaiseki courses of kappo restaurants and inns in Matsue. Restaurants in the city center are accessible from JR Matsue Station on foot or by bus. At lakeside inns on Lake Shinji, you can savor the local flavor along with lake views. Reserving in advance makes it a sure thing.

One Piece of Advice

Since the highlight of hoshoyaki is the moment the paper is opened, enjoy the presentation of unwrapping it at the table. A little sudachi or ponzu brings out the sweetness of the white flesh all the more. It is an elegant dish befitting a special-day meal.

Practical Travel Notes

• It is a cooking method in which the fish is wrapped in hosho paper and steam-baked, leaving the flesh plump while excess fat drips away. The aroma the moment the paper is opened is the greatest highlight.
• Sea bass is the foremost of the Seven Delicacies of Lake Shinji. While traveling, enjoying it in a kaiseki course together with other delicacies such as shijimi soup lets you savor Lake Shinji's food culture all at once.
• Because it is a labor-intensive traditional dish, it is often served as a course item at inns and kappo restaurants, so reserving in advance is reliable.
• It is a refined dish with an anecdote about Fumai Matsudaira. It suits a special-day meal or a commemorative trip.
• At lakeside inns you can enjoy it along with the sunset view. Since sea bass is said to be in season in summer, aiming for a summer trip lets you encounter an even more delicious dish.