Kurume Ramen: Where to Eat & What It Costs (Fukuoka)

Kurume, in the south of Fukuoka Prefecture, is known as the birthplace of tonkotsu ramen. It is said to have begun in 1937 at a stall called Nankin Senryo by the station, when a founder from Shimabara drew on the pork bone broth of Nagasaki chanpon and the Chinese style noodles then popular in Yokohama and Tokyo. The cloudy soup of today is said to have come about in 1947, when another stall accidentally boiled it hard, and its rich flavor is regarded as a root of Hakata ramen.

Highlights

• The origin of tonkotsu ramen, born in Kurume in 1937
• A rich, fragrant cloudy soup boiled hard
• The traditional yobimodoshi method of topping up the broth
• A Kurume trait of often adding a sheet of nori

Seasonal Enjoyment

In the cold season the rich soup soaks all the way to the core. In hot months, tighten the flavor with garlic or spicy takana so even a heavy soup feels light.

Access and Basics

• Area: Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture, with famous shops dotting the areas around JR and Nishitetsu Kurume stations
• Access: about 30 to 40 minutes from Hakata Station in Fukuoka City by JR Kagoshima Line or Nishitetsu Tenjin Omuta Line
• Budget guide: an affordable range from a few hundred yen per bowl
• The yobimodoshi tradition: new soup is added to the pot as it drops and kept simmering, a name said to have been coined by the second owner of the long established Taiho Ramen in Kurume

Practical Travel Notes

• Timing: lunch and evening are the core times, but inheriting the stall culture some shops open late into the night or from early morning, so just after opening or off the lunch peak avoids the crowds
• Comparing shops: from long established shops that tout a yobimodoshi soup to lighter newer shops, the character differs greatly, and touring a few reveals the range of Kurume ramen
• On the table: many shops set out spicy takana, garlic, and pickled ginger, which shift the flavor when added later, so savor the soup aroma plain first before adding
• Nearby walk: Kurume is also known as a yakitori town, so in the evening you can hop between yakitori shops near the station, while the city holds sites such as the Kurume Castle ruins and the head shrine of Suitengu
• Budget feel: even with a kaedama or toppings it often stays affordable, making it good for eating around

A Little Advice

Soup strength and aroma differ greatly by shop, so tasting several reveals the depth of Kurume ramen. Start with a long established shop that touts a yobimodoshi broth. If it feels mild, tighten it with spicy takana or garlic, and order a kaedama to finish so you enjoy it to the last.