Kurume Yakitori: Where to Eat & What It Costs (Fukuoka)

Kurume is a yakitori town counted among the densest in Japan by shops per capita, a favorite of those in the know. Said to have begun at stalls in the late 1950s, it is marked by an abundance of skewers other than chicken, such as pork and beef offal, despite the name yakitori. The German words for the skewers are distinctive too, with darm for white offal and herz for heart, names that reflect a region rich in medicine and still in use today.

Highlights

• A yakitori town packed with shops, among the densest in Japan
• Varied non chicken skewers such as darm white offal
• German skewer names rooted in medical terms
• A rich menu including skewers wrapped in vegetables

Seasonal Enjoyment

In autumn and winter, when the warmth of charcoal is welcome, hot skewers and a drink go hand in hand. In summer, starting with refreshing vegetable wrapped skewers alongside a cold drink is a pleasure.

Access and Basics

• Area: the central district of Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture
• Access: shops gather within walking distance of Nishitetsu and JR Kurume stations, about 30 to 40 minutes by train from Hakata Station
• Budget guide: an affordable range where you enjoy a few skewers at a time
• Town background: Kurume has promoted itself as number one in yakitori and used it to energize the town

Practical Travel Notes

• Timing: many shops open from evening into the night, and popular ones get busy on weekend nights, so just after opening or on weekdays lets you relax
• Ordering tips: start with the famous darm, or white offal, and boldly try unfamiliar German named skewers such as herz, or heart, for a truly Kurume experience, while vegetable wrapped skewers rolled in pork are also a specialty
• The joy of hopping: rather than settling in at one shop, moving through a few little by little suits this yakitori town, and many finish with the local Kurume ramen
• Nearby walk: known for the Kurume Castle ruins, the head shrine of Suitengu, and as the birthplace of Bridgestone, it lends itself to a daytime city stroll capped by evening yakitori
• Budget feel: skewers are affordable each, so tasting several kinds a little at a time does not weigh on the wallet

A Little Advice

Start by ordering the famous darm to experience a skewer unique to this town. Boldly trying skewers with unfamiliar names such as the vegetable wrapped ones or herz can lead you to delicious discoveries. Hopping between a few shops and finishing with Kurume ramen is the local way to enjoy it.