Mizu Manju, the Cool Summer Sweet of the Water City Ogaki

Mizu manju is a summer wagashi born in Ogaki, the water city blessed with abundant groundwater. A translucent skin made from kudzu and bracken starch wraps smooth bean paste, and it is served chilled in cold water. The springy mouthfeel and cool freshness make it a treat truly unique to summer, and the color of the bean paste showing through the clear skin looks refreshing as well.

Highlights

Mizu manju is said to have appeared in the Meiji era, originating when a wagashi craftsman devised it to make use of the famous local water. At first only kudzu starch was used, but because it hardened when chilled in water, mixing in water-resistant bracken starch gave rise to the distinctive chewy texture. The sight of mizu manju chilling in small cups in a water tank at the shopfront is a seasonal scene that announces the arrival of summer in Ogaki.

Enjoying the Seasons

Mizu manju is generally sold only from spring into early autumn, and the height of the heat is the best time to eat it. A single bite, chilled in cold spring water, gently cools a body flushed from strolling. The center of Ogaki has many canals and spring-water spots, so savoring it while feeling the charm of the water city is something special.

Access and Basic Information

The best mizu manju shops are gathered among the wagashi shops around JR Ogaki Station. From Nagoya it is roughly thirty minutes by the JR Tokaido Main Line. Long-established shops such as Kinchoen Sohonke are here, and you can tour several within walking distance of the station while watching them chill in tanks at the storefront. The price is generally a little over a hundred yen per piece, and besides smooth bean paste and matcha paste, some shops offer seasonal fruit fillings. Since sales are largely limited to spring through early autumn, visiting in the hot months is recommended.

Practical Travel Notes

Mizu manju is a sweet meant to be eaten chilled, so the greatest luxury is enjoying it on the spot at the storefront. A strong, sunny midday is ideal, and a bite taken to the murmur of the canals is especially fine. It melts easily when carried, so keep it cool and enjoy it soon. Ogaki is also known as the place where Basho ended his Narrow Road to the Deep North journey, and strolling the promenade along the Suimon River or its spring-water spots deepens the charm of the water city. To round out the tasting, ayu cuisine from the Nagara River, an early-summer Gifu delicacy, makes a fitting summer pairing. Enjoy this cool sweet as a break while touring western Mino.

A Quick Tip

The greatest luxury is eating a freshly made one chilled at the shopfront on the spot. If you take it away, it melts easily, so keep it cool and enjoy it soon. Since it is a summer-only item, checking the season before you visit is reassuring.