Shodoshima Somen: Where to Eat & What It Costs (Kagawa)

Shodoshima somen is a hand-stretched noodle said to have begun about 400 years ago when a resident of Ikeda village on Shodoshima learned the production method at Miwa (Nara Prefecture) and brought it home. Counted among Japan's three great somen, it is prized for a thin, supple slide down the throat and a firm bite. It is also known nationwide as "Shima no Hikari," the brand of the Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative Association.

Highlights

The heart of it is the traditional method of brushing on pure sesame oil, a specialty of Shodoshima, while drawing the dough out with wooden chopsticks until it becomes an ultra-fine thread. These are noodles that have been made by family hands during the winter agricultural off-season. At the "Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Hall" you can tour the production process and try "hashiwake," spreading the strands apart with chopsticks.

Four Centuries of Handwork Rooted in the Island

Somen making on Shodoshima is said to have begun about 400 years ago, when a resident of Ikeda village learned somen production technique at Miwa in Nara Prefecture and brought it back to the island. A major reason noodle making took root in island life was that it could be done with family labor during the winter agricultural off-season. Ever since, craftsmen have stubbornly preserved and handed down the method, and even now the noodle workshops belonging to the Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative Association keep to the traditional processes and production standards, producing and jointly selling under the name "Shima no Hikari." For the town of Shodoshima, somen is one of the island's core industries, alongside soy sauce and olives.

Why Sesame Oil Is Used

What sets Shodoshima somen most apart from other producing regions is that pure sesame oil, an island specialty, is brushed on as the dough is stretched. The oil keeps the strands from sticking to one another and at the same time creates a flavor unique to this land. Sesame oil is also resistant to oxidation, and is therefore said to help preserve quality. The faint toasty aroma that rises from the boiled noodles comes from this very method.

How a Single Strand Is Made

Hand-stretching is work that stacks up process after process over a full day. It begins with "ode," kneading wheat flour with Setouchi salt water, then "itagi," cutting the sheet of dough into a long band; "hosome" and "konashi," twisting and drawing it out ever thinner; "kakeba," looping the strands in a figure eight over two rods; "kobiki," pulling it out little by little; and then "kadoboshi," stretching it all at once at the outdoor drying yard and letting it dry. Finally it is dried slowly in the sun to become a thin noodle with a firm bite. Between the steps the dough is left to rest again and again, and adjusting the salt and the resting time to the temperature and humidity is the craftsman's skill.

The "Somen Landscape" That Spreads Across the Winter Island

The height of production is winter. On clear, cold days, curtains of pure white somen hang in row upon row at the drying yards, swaying in the Setouchi wind — a sight seen here and there across the island. The thin strands glowing as the light passes through them are a scene that symbolizes the island's winter. Carry a freshly boiled strand to your mouth and, after the smooth slide down the throat, the bite remains, while the faint scent of sesame oil escapes through the nose.

How to Enjoy It and Tips for Photographs

Chilled somen in summer, warm nyumen in winter. As a way of eating unique to the island, there is also the pleasure of adding a drizzle of Shodoshima olive oil. At the "Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Hall," besides touring the production process, you can try "hashiwake," spreading the strands with chopsticks, and sample freshly made "nama somen" (raw somen). For photographs, aiming at the white curtains of noodles slightly against the light makes each strand shine, and shooting a bowl of noodles from a diagonal angle above rather than straight overhead conveys their fineness and the way they gather in bundles. However, the drying yards are working production sites and are also private property, so please do not enter without permission and always follow the guidance and instructions of the facilities and workshops.

Enjoying the Seasons

In summer, chilled somen refreshes, while in winter warm nyumen soup comforts you. You can also try the island style of adding olive oil.

Access and Basic Information

Production centers on the Ikeda district of Shodoshima Town. Reach the island by ferry from Takamatsu Port and other ports, then buy and taste it at island shops and eateries. Facilities offering hand stretching experiences change their reception by season and day, so inquiring in advance is the sure way. Dried noodles for souvenirs keep well and can be found at roadside stations and port shops too.

Practical Travel Notes

• Hand stretching is a traditional method that uses cold winter winds, so production and hands on experiences peak in winter, and if you visit in summer it is best to confirm whether the experience is available first.
• Ferries run on limited schedules, so planning island meals and shopping backward from the round trip times makes moving around easier.
• Dried noodles are light, compact, and long keeping, making them ideal souvenirs, and the island style of adding olive oil is worth a try.
• Some direct sales shops are run by the noodle makers themselves, where you may find fresher noodles or bargain irregular items.

A Quick Tip

The boiling time is surprisingly short. Follow the package timing and chill firmly in ice water so the chew stands out. If you eat it on the island, a drizzle of local olive oil changes the flavor in an interesting way.

Souvenir and Takeaway Hints

Shodoshima somen is a hand-stretched somen with over 400 years of history, distinguished by the use of sesame oil in the stretching. Its thin, firm noodles are prized for their smooth passage down the throat and their distinctive flavor. Dried somen keeps well, and boxed products are widely available at souvenir shops and by mail order, making it a standard gift. It can be enjoyed all year: chilled somen in summer and nyumen in winter. Tasting the real thing at a noodle workshop or somen restaurant on Shodoshima is recommended.

Sources of Information

This article is compiled from tourism information for Kagawa Prefecture and information published by each shop. Prices, menus and seasons may change, so please check the official information of each shop for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: Dried noodles are reasonably priced, with boxed sets available for gifts
• Where to eat it: Noodle workshops and somen restaurants on Shodoshima, and souvenir shops within the prefecture
• Recommended time of day: Mainly midday. Especially popular in summer
• Avoiding crowds: Noodle workshops get busy in the tourist season, so shift your timing
• Enjoy together with: The hand-stretching experience, Shodoshima olives, and island soy sauce

Practical Information

• History: About 400 years ago, a resident of Ikeda village on Shodoshima learned somen production technique while stopping at Miwa (Nara Prefecture) and brought it back to the island, which is said to be the beginning
• Method: A hand-stretching method in which the kneaded dough is drawn out with wooden chopsticks into an ultra-fine thread while pure sesame oil, a Shodoshima specialty, is brushed on, and finally dried in the sun. Sesame oil is resistant to oxidation and also helps preserve quality
• Production period: There is a history of production by family labor during the winter agricultural off-season, and production centers on winter. Among the Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative Association's "Shima no Hikari" brand, the "Kuro-obi" (black belt) grade is produced only during the cold season from October to March
• Standing: Counted as one of Japan's three great somen producing regions
• Producing area: The Ikeda district of Shodoshima is the place of origin
• Facility offering hands-on experience: Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Hall. In addition to touring the production process, you can try "hashiwake," spreading the strands with chopsticks, and sample freshly made "nama somen"
• Note (allergies): The ingredients are wheat flour, natural Setouchi salt and sesame oil. Those with wheat or sesame allergies should take care

*The reception hours of the hands-on facility and whether the experience is offered vary by season and day of the week, so please check in advance. Business hours of individual shops and workshops differ by establishment.*

(Sources: Kagawa Prefecture Tourism Association official website "Udon Ken Tabi Net," Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative Association official website)

Practical Information for Your Visit

• History: It is said to have begun about 400 years ago, when a resident of Ikeda Village on Shodoshima stopped at Miwa (in Nara Prefecture), learned the technique of making somen noodles and brought it back to the island
• How it is made: In the hand-stretched method, the dough is kneaded while being coated with the pure sesame oil that is a specialty of Shodoshima, then drawn out with wooden chopsticks until it becomes extremely fine threads, and finally dried in the sun. Sesame oil does not oxidize easily, which also helps preserve the quality
• When it is made: There is a history of the noodles being made by family labor during the agricultural off-season in winter, and production is still centered on the winter months. Among the products of the Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative under its "Shima no Hikari" brand, the "Black Belt" grade is made only during the cold season from October to March
• Its standing: It is counted as one of Japan's three great somen-producing regions
• Where it comes from: The Ikeda district of Shodoshima is where it originated
• Where you can try making it: The Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Museum. As well as watching the production process, you can try "hashiwake," stretching the noodles with chopsticks, and taste freshly made "raw somen"
• A note on allergies: The ingredients are wheat flour, natural salt from the Seto Inland Sea, and sesame oil. Those with wheat or sesame allergies should take care

* The reception hours of the hands-on facility and whether sessions are held vary with the season and the day of the week, so check in advance. Opening hours at individual shops and noodle workshops vary from place to place.

(Sources: Kagawa Prefecture Tourism Association official website "Udon Ken Tabi Net"; Shodoshima Hand-Stretched Somen Cooperative official website)