Kyoto Local Gourmet Guide: Yudofu (Hot Tofu)

Yudofu (Hot Tofu)

A bowl of deep, nourishing flavor that the thousand year old capital of Kyoto takes pride in. Beyond the steam drifting through the restaurant districts of Nanzenji and Arashiyama dwells the very essence of this citys food culture.

What sets Kyotos yudofu apart from that of other regions lies in the citys abundant soft water and the production methods handed down by long established tofu shops. Tofu that gently draws out the inherent sweetness of soybeans is made to quiver in the gentle warmth of kombu dashi, and that pure, clear taste seems to gently undo the palate of a modern person accustomed to strong flavors. Take one sip and the noise, the fatigue, somehow drift far away. That is the quiet magic Kyotos yudofu possesses.

Characteristics

The true essence of yudofu lies in its simplicity. At the restaurants around Nanzenji, long standing shops still prepare tofu by unchanging methods, slowly warming each block in a pot. The condiments are grated ginger, chopped green onion, and dashi soy sauce carrying the fragrance of yuzu. Scoop up the tofu gently, take a mouthful, and it crumbles softly, the warm sweetness of the soybeans spreading gently. A supremely honest dish stripped of everything unnecessary, and precisely because of that, the power of the ingredient and the sincerity of the artisan come through straight into a single bowl.

The best season is autumn to winter (October to February). After strolling the precincts of Nanzenji dyed with autumn foliage, warming your chilled body from the core with yudofu is a truly luxurious way to enjoy Kyoto. On a bone chilling Kyoto winter morning, the whiteness of the steam leaking through the lattice doors of a restaurant has a charm that draws travelers in. You can have it even in summer in an air conditioned interior, but it is in the chilly season that this dishs true value shines.

The recommended time is lunchtime (11 a.m. to 1 p.m.). Popular shops that call for reservations at night are relatively easy to enter at lunchtime, and the set prices are often more reasonable too. Slowly savoring yudofu at midday, when autumn light streams into the restaurants garden, is a luxurious moment that makes you forget the bustle of daily life.

Access (Nanzenji Area): About 10 minutes on foot from Keage Station on the subway Tozai Line. Walking while gazing at the Incline lets you savor Kyotos atmosphere all on its own. The Arashiyama area is within walking distance of JR Saga Arashiyama Station or Hankyu Arashiyama Station. From Kyoto Station you can reach Saga Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line.

Kyo Kaiseki

An edible work of art in which each dish holds a season, that is Kyo kaiseki. Born from the culture of the tea ceremony, this cuisine, through cooking methods that draw out the most from seasonal ingredients and through tableware enjoyed by the eye, lets visitors experience Kyoto itself with all five senses. You catch your breath at each dish carried out. Before such beauty, the hand holding the chopsticks pauses for a moment.

At the long established ryotei lining areas where the geisha district culture lives on, such as Shijo, Gion, and Kiyamachi, the chefs philosophy and Kyotos four seasons are condensed into the flow that begins with the sakizuke appetizer and continues through soup, sashimi, grilled dish, simmered medley, and finally rice with pickles. In spring, bamboo shoots and young sansho leaves; in summer, Kamo eggplant and pike conger; in autumn, matsutake and chestnut; in winter, Shogoin turnip; the once in a lifetime encounter with ingredients you can meet only in that season is the true delight of Kyo kaiseki.

Tips for Eating Around

Many feel authentic Kyo kaiseki has a high threshold, but in fact more and more ryotei around Gion and Hanamikoji now let you experience it from around six thousand yen for a lunch course. First challenging yourself with a kaiseki lunch or daytime kaiseki is the smart way to start. The experience of being carefully hosted in a place of formality is sure to become an irreplaceable travel memory beyond the value of the food itself.

The local style enjoyment you cannot skip is eating around at Nishiki Market. At this arcade shopping street called the kitchen of Kyoto, you can casually experience Kyotos food culture that connects to kaiseki cuisine, such as dashimaki tamago, grilled mackerel sushi, and tsukudani of yuba. The recommended time is the morning right after opening. Visiting in the window before tourists flood in by late morning lets you look around relatively calmly. Note that eating while walking is discouraged; enjoy food at the storefront or an eat in space, which is the etiquette of this market.

Access (Gion / Shijo Area): Within 5 minutes on foot from either Hankyu Kyoto Kawaramachi Station or Keihan Gion Shijo Station. The very act of searching for shops while walking the cobblestone alleys becomes the Kyoto like delight of travel. Nishiki Market is about 3 minutes on foot from Hankyu Karasuma Station or the subway Shijo Station.

Nishin Soba (Herring Soba)

A soul food bowl beloved by the people of Kyoto since the Meiji era. Warm soba topped with sweet and savory simmered dried herring is the bounty of the sea in a town with no sea, where dried herring brought from the northern sea met Kyotos artisanal skill. Somehow nostalgic, yet impossible to meet elsewhere, nishin soba is just such a bowl unique to Kyoto.

Its birth dates back to the Meiji era. In an age when fresh fish was hard to obtain in landlocked Kyoto, a technique was born of carefully rehydrating dried herring brought from the northern lands and simmering it slowly in strongly sweet soy sauce. Matsuba, standing beside the Minamiza theater at the foot of the Shijo Ohashi bridge, is said to be the birthplace, where the second generation owner devised nishin soba in 1882. The dashi is fundamentally a blend of bonito and kombu, and one sip of that amber soup spreads the herrings flavor gently across the tongue.

The best season is winter (November to March). In Kyotos bitterly bone chilling winter, the bliss of slurping piping hot nishin soba is exceptional. At dusk, when the lanterns of Gion and Pontocho sway, ducking through a noren and settling onto a counter seat, the instant you sip the soup so hot the steam hits your face, the chilled core of your body slowly melts, a special feeling you can taste only on a winter trip to Kyoto.

Access (Gion / Shijo Ohashi Area): About 2 minutes on foot from Keihan Gion Shijo Station. Walk toward the large sign of the Minamiza theater as your landmark and you are there in no time. Just crossing the Shijo Ohashi bridge while listening to the murmur of the Kamogawa already brings the Kyoto mood to its peak. The Kiyamachi and Pontocho areas are also within 5 minutes on foot of the same station.

Practical Travel Notes

To fully enjoy Kyotos gourmet scene, advance research and reservations make or break the trip. Make a visit list and book popular ryotei and yudofu shops early to be safe.

• Getting around: During the tourist seasons (spring cherry blossoms late March to early April, autumn foliage mid November to early December), buses tend to run well behind. A plan that prioritizes the subway and walking is recommended.
• Timing: To avoid crowds at popular shops, aim for the morning right after opening or a time outside the lunch peak (12 to 1 p.m.). Nishiki Market is also calmer to browse in the morning.
• Budget feel: Nishin soba is casual at the low thousands of yen. A yudofu set runs from the three thousand yen range and a kaiseki lunch from around six thousand yen, so you can choose by purpose.
• Attire: At high end ryotei, avoid overly casual outfits such as beach sandals or shorts, and slightly proper dress is safest. Interiors often have cobblestones and steps, so comfortable shoes are reassuring.
• Nearby stops: Combining cuisine with sights makes the day fuller, such as Nanzenji for yudofu, the Kamogawa and Minamiza for nishin soba, and Byodoin and the Uji River for matcha.

A Quick Tip

The iron rules of Kyoto gourmet are to base your movements on the train and to reserve early. At the tourist information counter inside JR Kyoto Station you can sometimes learn the days recommendations and openings. Dropping by on your first day makes later planning easier.