Nishin Soba: Kyoto Buckwheat Noodles with Herring

Nishin soba is a Kyoto born noodle dish in which sweet simmered dried herring rests atop warm buckwheat noodles in broth. Far from the sea, Kyoto prized dried herring brought in by northern trading ships as a valuable source of protein. Said to have been devised in 1882 by the second generation owner of the long established Matsuba, which stands beside the Minamiza theater at the foot of the Shijo Ohashi bridge, the sweet and savory fish harmonizes beautifully with the flavorful broth.

Highlights

• Tender simmered herring releases its richness into the broth
• The refined Kyoto stock contrasts pleasingly with the sweet fish
• Beloved as a year end noodle, it symbolizes Kyoto food culture

Enjoying the Seasons

As a warm soup noodle, it is especially welcome in the cool autumn and winter. In the bone chilling Kyoto winter, the bliss of warming your body with a steaming bowl is exceptional. Many households eat it as the year end soba on the final night of the year, making it a fitting dish to close out the year.

Access and Basic Information

• Area: enjoy it at noodle shops in the central districts such as Shijo and Gion. Matsuba, said to be the birthplace, stands at the east end of the Shijo Ohashi bridge beside the Minamiza theater.
• Access: about 2 minutes on foot from Keihan Gion Shijo Station. Famous shops also dot the area within walking distance of Hankyu Kyoto Kawaramachi Station.
• Budget guide: roughly the low thousands of yen a bowl, an easy price point for dropping in between sights.
• Format: warm soba is standard, though some shops offer a chilled version.

Practical Travel Notes

• During the lunch peak (12 to 1 p.m.), popular shops can form lines. Aiming for the morning right after opening or the uncrowded time after 2 p.m. keeps things smooth.
• The sweet and savory herring broth clings to the soba, so watch for splashes when wearing white.
• Many shops are small with counter seats, so dropping in casually with a small party is the Kyoto style.
• Souvenir sets pairing dried noodles with herring tsukudani are popular and can be bought at stations, department store basements, and markets.
• Cross the Shijo Ohashi bridge and the Kamogawa, Minamiza, and Gion are right there, so pairing it with a post meal stroll makes for a full outing.

A Quick Tip

Loosen the herring with your chopsticks and savor it together with the broth. Discover the deep, nourishing taste that makes you want to drink down every last drop, right in the Shijo area where it was born.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• The shop said to be the birthplace: Sohonke Nishin Soba Matsuba, main shop (192 Kawabata-cho, Shijo-Ohashi Higashi-iru, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City 605-0076 / telephone 075-561-1451). Closed on Wednesdays (open when Wednesday is a public holiday), with seasonal variations. Opening hours may also change, so please check official information before visiting.
• Access: Get off at 'Gion-Shijo' Station on the Keihan Main Line. By city bus, get off at 'Shijo-Keihan-mae'.
• Guide to prices: The official website of the Kyoto Prefecture Tourism Federation lists 'nishin soba 1,350 yen (1,485 yen including tax)'.
• Also worth knowing: The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' 'Our Local Cuisine' project describes migaki-nishin (dried herring) as a preserved food brought to Kyoto by kitamaebune trading ships from the Edo period through the Meiji era, and includes 'nasu to nishin no takitan' (simmered eggplant and herring) as a local dish of Kyoto Prefecture.

Note: Opening hours and prices at individual shops vary from shop to shop.

(Sources: Kyoto Prefecture Tourism Federation official website 'Sohonke Nishin Soba Matsuba', Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries 'Our Local Cuisine: Nasu to Nishin no Takitan (Kyoto Prefecture)')

Sources of Information

This article is compiled from Kyoto Prefecture's tourism information and information published by the individual shops. Prices, menus and seasonal availability are subject to change, so please check each shop's official information for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From around 1,000 yen a bowl
• Where to eat: Long-established soba restaurants in Kyoto City
• Best time of day: Mainly midday, as a break between sights
• Dealing with crowds: Famous shops are busy at lunchtime, so shift your timing
• Enjoy it with: Kyoto dashi broth, sweet-simmered herring as a souvenir, and a stroll through Gion