Kyoto Pickles: The Three Great Tsukemono of the Old Capital

Kyoto pickles are traditional foods that draw out the character of local vegetables. Among them, suguki, senmaizuke, and shibazuke are called the three great Kyoto pickles and are designated Kyoto heritage foods by the prefecture. Lacking fresh fish, Kyoto developed the wisdom of pickling vegetables to enjoy them long, and each variety carries its own method and flavor to this day.

Highlights

• Suguki features a tang from lactic fermentation of greens grown in Kamigamo and salt alone
• Senmaizuke is a refined pickle of thinly sliced turnip steeped with kelp
• Shibazuke pickles summer vegetables with red shiso for vivid color and a fresh tang

Enjoying the Seasons

Pickles have their seasons. Senmaizuke is at its best in the cold months when winter turnip appears, while shibazuke is made in summer when its vegetables and red shiso are ready. Suguki too is a winter tradition, so flavors shift with each season.

Access and Basic Information

• Area: long established shops sit in production zones such as around Kamigamo Shrine, the home of suguki, and Ohara, while pickle shops also stand citywide and near Kyoto Station.
• Access: reach shops by subway or city bus. Pickle specialists in Nishiki Market also sell the three great pickles.
• Budget guide: a souvenir bag mostly runs from a few hundred to the low thousands of yen, and tasting sets are affordable to choose.
• Format: sold by weight, individually wrapped, or in assortments, with many shops offering samples.

Practical Travel Notes

• The fermented tang divides opinion, so confirming the taste at a shop that offers samples helps you choose without regret.
• Senmaizuke is often a winter only item, so in a Kyoto winter it is a good seasonal pick.
• Many items travel easily at room temperature and keep well, suiting souvenirs. For items needing refrigeration, keep them cool.
• Beyond comparing many at Nishiki Market, visiting a long established Kamigamo shop lets you meet products unique to the production area.
• Fine with rice, and delicious over tea soaked rice too. Savoring them as a late night snack at your lodging is also nice.

A Quick Tip

Choosing a tasting set lets you compare the three great pickles at once. The fermented tang divides opinion, so using the samples and starting with a small amount is recommended.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• When they are in season: According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' 'Our Local Cuisine', suguki is harvested and pickled from mid-November to around January, when frost has raised the sugar content of the roots, while senmaizuke is made from around November, the shipping season for Shogoin turnips. Shibazuke is a preserved food, so it can be enjoyed all year round.
• Official recognition: Under the Kyoto Prefecture Ordinance for the Promotion of Manufacturing Industries of Tradition and Culture, Kyoto Prefecture designates senmaizuke, suguki and shibazuke as 'Kyo-mono traditional foods'.
• A farm shop where you can buy them at the source: Sato-no-Eki Ohara (1012 Ohara Nomura-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City). The Shunsai Ichiba market is open 9:00-16:00, closed on Mondays (or the following Tuesday when Monday is a public holiday), and sells Ohara-made shibazuke and yomogi mochi. Get off the Kyoto Bus at 'Nomura Wakare'; free parking for 77 cars.
• Points to note: In Ohara, the home of shibazuke, the 'Aka-shiso Biraki' (red shiso opening) is held every year from July 1 to 31, with activities such as shibazuke-making experiences.

Note: Opening hours and prices at individual shops vary from shop to shop.

(Sources: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries 'Our Local Cuisine' suguki-zuke, senmai-zuke and shibazuke (Kyoto Prefecture), Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries 'Illustrated Guide to Japan's Traditional Foods: Kyoto Pickles', Sato-no-Eki Ohara official website)

Sources of Information

This article is compiled from Kyoto Prefecture's tourism information and information published by the individual shops. Prices, menus and seasonal availability are subject to change, so please check each shop's official information for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From a few hundred yen a bag, with gift assortments available too
• Where to eat: Specialist pickle shops, Nishiki Market and department stores in Kyoto City
• Best time of day: Available all year round; senmaizuke is at its best in winter
• Dealing with crowds: Easy to buy as a souvenir
• Enjoy it with: Comparing suguki, shibazuke and senmaizuke, with rice or ochazuke, and with obanzai home-style dishes