Chicken Nanban: Local Food Guide & How to Eat (Miyazaki)

Crisp fried chicken is dipped in a sweet vinegar sauce and crowned with a generous helping of tartar. This single plate, born in Miyazaki Prefecture, has become a national favorite served at tables all across Japan. Its birthplace is Nobeoka in the north of the prefecture, where a postwar cook who knew the meaning of scarcity devised it as a way to make often leftover breast meat delicious. In 2007 it was chosen for the Ministry of Agriculture list of one hundred local dishes, and it is known nationwide as a taste that represents Miyazaki.

Highlights

Nobeoka holds two traditions. One is the simple lineage savored with only the sweet vinegar and no tartar, represented by the shop Nao chan. The other is the lineage of Ogura, which spread the dish nationwide by adding a mellow, abundant tartar sauce. Ogura was founded in the late 1950s and is said to have begun selling its tartar topped chicken nanban around the mid 1960s. In 2009 a symposium was held in Nobeoka to declare the town the birthplace, and this land was formally recognized as the origin. Even under the same name, the thickness of the batter and the balance of the sweet vinegar differ from shop to shop, so the joy of comparison never ends.

Enjoying the Seasons

Chicken nanban can be enjoyed all year round. In summer the refreshing sweet vinegar awakens the appetite, while in winter a piping hot serving straight from the fryer warms the body. Eating it as a set meal with white rice is the classic approach, but taking it out to enjoy by the sea or in a park is a pleasure too. Locals each have their own family tartar, and seeking out a plate to your taste at a shop on your travels is its own delight. It is so deeply rooted in Miyazaki life that it appears daily at delis and supermarkets.

Access and Basic Information

Nobeoka, the birthplace, is dotted with specialty shops centered on JR Nobeoka Station. The head shop of Ogura, which spread the dish nationwide, stands on Chuo Dori in Miyazaki City and can be combined with a stroll through the downtown area. Popular shops draw lines at lunchtime, so visiting at an off-peak hour is recommended. Specialty shops mainly serve it as a set meal, and a plate with rice and miso soup can be had at a reasonable price.

A Quick Tip

If it is your first time, try both the simple version with only sweet vinegar and the plate heaped with tartar. The impression changes so much that they hardly seem like the same dish, letting you feel the depth of Miyazaki food culture.

Practical Travel Notes

• Two lineages: the sweet vinegar only style of Nao chan and the tartar heaped style of Ogura. Comparing them gives quite different impressions.
• The Ogura head shop is on Chuo Dori in Miyazaki City, while Nao chan is in Nobeoka. The birthplace, Nobeoka, is based around JR Nobeoka Station.
• It is mainly served as a set meal. Many sets come with rice and miso soup, filling you up affordably.
• Popular shops draw lines at lunchtime. Arriving right at opening or avoiding the midday peak makes it easier to get in without waiting.
• The sweet vinegar differs in recipe from shop to shop, so comparing the balance of sourness and sweetness is one of the pleasures.