Jikoji, an Ancient Temple of Towering Cedars in Gosen

Set in the mountains of Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture, Jikoji is an ancient Soto Zen temple that sits at the foot of the sacred Mount Hakusan. It is said to have been revived around 1403 (Oei 10) by the Zen master Ketsudo Nossho, held to be a direct descendant of Kusunoki Masashige, and it is counted among the four old training halls of Echigo. The cedar-lined approach leading up from the Kogane no Sato hall at the foot of the hill draws visitors into a quiet world of prayer.

Along the approach stand 136 cedars over a stretch of about 500 meters, among them giants said to be 300 to more than 500 years old and six to seven meters around the trunk. This cedar avenue was designated a natural monument of Niigata Prefecture in 1975 (Showa 50); there were 137 trees at the time of designation, and 136 remain today.

Highlights

• A cedar avenue of 136 trees stretching some 500 meters along the approach, a prefectural natural monument.
• The Dragon God Cedar, said to be the dwelling of a dragon deity. Another cedar along the approach is said to have been coiled around by a great serpent.
• A Mount Hakusan serpent legend and a tengu legend, including the old tale of a high priest who calmed the great serpent.
• The cool air of the approach, walked to the murmur of the Takiyagawa stream.
• Six structures, the main hall, the meditation hall and monks' quarters, the priests' living quarters, the mountain gate, the covered corridor, and the sutra repository, are Registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan. Soto Zen temples that still retain a covered corridor are rare even within Niigata Prefecture, and this is one of the most complete examples of the seven-hall monastery layout.

Enjoying the Seasons

In fresh-green season light filters through young leaves among the cedars, and summer shade is refreshingly cool. Autumn colors the surrounding hills, and winter dusts the cedar branches white. The precinct, hushed through all four seasons, is perfect when you wish to settle your heart.

From a Center of Hakusan Worship to One of Echigo's Four Training Halls

According to information published by Gosen City, the date of Jikoji's founding is not clear, but this area is thought to have been a center of Mount Hakusan worship since ancient times. At this place of prayer opened at the foot of the sacred peak, the Zen master Ketsudo Nossho was welcomed and the temple revived around 1403 (Oei 10), and from then on it continued as a Soto Zen temple. In the Edo period it is said to have flourished as one of the four training halls of Echigo, and many training monks made their way to this spot deep in the mountains. The cedar-lined approach is long and deep for a reason: it was not merely a path for pilgrims, but the boundary where the secular world gave way to the world of ascetic practice.

The Edo-Period Halls and the Registered Tangible Cultural Properties

The buildings you see today were rebuilt after a fire in the mid-Edo period. According to information published by Gosen City, the main hall dates from 1763 (Horeki 13) and the priests' living quarters from 1759 (Horeki 9), while the meditation hall and monks' quarters, the mountain gate, the covered corridor, and the sutra repository were built in the late Edo period. These six structures, the main hall, the meditation hall and monks' quarters, the living quarters, the mountain gate, the corridor, and the sutra repository, were listed as Registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan in 2012 (Heisei 24). Soto Zen temples that still preserve buildings linked to one another by a covered corridor are rare even within Niigata Prefecture, and this is regarded as a valuable example that conveys the complete form of the seven-hall monastery layout. Note that, as publicly announced, viewing is limited to the exteriors, which can be seen at any time.

Etiquette and Manners for Your Visit

When visiting a Zen temple, pause in front of the mountain gate and bow once before entering the precinct. In front of the main hall, do not worry too much about the fine points of ringing the bell or offering coins; the usual practice is simply to press your palms together quietly and bow your head. Unlike at a shrine, you do not clap your hands. This is still a place of ascetic practice, so refrain from loud conversation or from peering inside the halls. On the cedar-lined approach, walk down the middle of the path so as not to compact the soil around the roots, and never climb the great cedars or damage their trunks. The fallen leaves and moss are precious soil that protects these giant trees. If you set up a tripod, take care not to block the approach.

The Walk Along the Approach Is Itself the Experience

Setting out from in front of the hall, the murmur of the Takiyagawa reaches you constantly from the left. The cedar bark is damp, and the air carries a mingled scent of earth, moss, and conifer. Look up and the giants, six to seven meters around, cut the sky into a narrow ribbon, while the light slipping through casts a dappled pattern at your feet. Even in summer, you will feel the air turn cool the moment you enter the approach. The round trip takes about an hour, and it is that very stillness that you will come to feel is the true substance of this ancient temple.

Access and Essentials

• Location: 870 Hiruno, Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture
• Access: Park at the Kogane no Sato hall at the foot of the hill (878-13 Hiruno, Gosen City) and walk the cedar-lined approach to Jikoji. The approach is a footpath that follows the Takiyagawa.
• Jikoji's viewing hours are 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from April to October, and 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from November to March.
• The Kogane no Sato hall is open from April 1 to November 30 and closes for the winter (December to the end of March). Its hours are 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., and it is closed on Wednesdays (open on public holidays).

Access and Basic Information

• Location: Hiruno, Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture
• Access: Park at the Kogane no Sato hall (878-13 Hiruno, Gosen City) at the foot of the hill and walk the cedar approach to Jikoji. The approach is a footpath running alongside the Takiyagawa stream.
• The Kogane no Sato hall is usually open from April 1 to November 30 and closed in winter, from December to the end of March. Check its status before visiting.

Practical Travel Notes

• Best season: early summer greenery and autumn foliage. Note that the Kogane no Sato hall is closed in winter.
• Avoiding crowds: apart from autumn-foliage weekends it is fairly quiet, and walking the cedar avenue in the clear morning air is recommended.
• Time needed: about one to one and a half hours for the round trip along the approach and worship.
• Nearby spots: the Kogane no Sato hall serves handmade soba made with buckwheat flour from local Bessho. The tulip fields of central Gosen in spring are another attraction.
• Budget guide: worship and the walk are free. It is easy to enjoy even including a meal such as handmade soba. A car is convenient.

A Quick Tip

The approach is an earth-and-stone path, so easy-walking shoes are recommended. Stroll slowly while gazing up at the great cedars, and you can fully savor the solemn air found only at an ancient temple.

📚 Sources

This article is based on public information from Jikoji, guidance from Gosen City and the Gosen Tourism Association, published materials on the cedar avenue designated a prefectural natural monument, and on-site information boards. The Kogane no Sato hall at the foot closes in winter and its opening varies by year, so please confirm with the Gosen Tourism Association or the hall before setting out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: Allow about one to one and a half hours for the approach round trip and worship.
• What to prepare: Easy-walking shoes, as the approach is an earth-and-stone path.
• When to go: Note that the Kogane no Sato hall is closed in winter, from December to end of March.
• How to tour: Park at the hall and walk the cedar avenue along the stream to the temple.
• Before you go: Confirm the hall opening status in advance, as it may change.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Address: 870 Hiruno, Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture
• Telephone: 0250-58-4000
• Visiting hours: 9:00 to 16:30 from April to October, and 9:00 to 16:00 from November to March
• Parking: Use the car park in front of the Kogane-no-Sato Kaikan hall at the foot of the hill
• Kogane-no-Sato Kaikan (878-13 Hiruno, Gosen City / telephone 0250-58-1808): Open from 1 April to 30 November, 9:00 to 16:00, closed every Wednesday (open on public holidays). It suspends operations during the winter (December to the end of March)
• Avenue of cedars: Designated a Natural Monument of Niigata Prefecture on 29 March 1975 (Showa 50) (137 trees at the time of designation, 136 today)

Note: no admission fee for Jikoji Temple is published officially.

(Sources: Takiya Jikoji Temple official website; Gosen City official website; official website of the Gosen City Tourism Association)