Godofu: A Local Food Guide for Visitors (Saga)

Godofu is a local tofu handed down chiefly in the town of Arita. While ordinary tofu is set with bittern, godofu is distinguished above all by setting soy milk with kudzu and starch. This gives rise to a chewy, springy, jiggly texture all its own. Rich in bean flavor, it is enjoyed plainly with soy sauce or mustard, but also deep-fried or drizzled with a sweet sauce, cherished in different ways from area to area.

According to local lore, its origin traces to the early Showa era, when a merchant of Arita learned a method of making tofu with kudzu while visiting Nagasaki. A technique that arrived by way of Nagasaki took root as a local flavor in Arita, the village of pottery. The finished tofu is as smooth as a soft pudding and pairs well with the sweet soy sauce typical of Kyushu.

Highlights

Arita is a pottery village known worldwide for Arita ware. Strolling the streets where kilns gather and tasting godofu at a local eatery or inn is a special experience. Fittingly for a pottery town, godofu served on a beautiful vessel is a pleasure for the eyes, letting you enjoy both the dish and the ware. Its smooth, rich mouthfeel lets you fully sense the natural sweetness and aroma of the beans.

The breadth of ways to eat it is another charm. Long ago it was standard to enjoy it with vinegar miso, sesame soy sauce, or wasabi soy sauce, but in recent years serving it as tempura or drizzled with brown-sugar syrup like a dessert has also spread. That a single dish can be either a savory course or a sweet is a versatility rarely seen in other tofu.

Enjoying the Seasons

Godofu is delicious chilled or warmed, a versatile dish to enjoy in any season. In hot weather, serve it cold with wasabi soy sauce or mustard for a refreshing bite. In cold weather, warming it to savor the silky texture is also recommended. If you visit when the town bustles, such as during the Arita pottery fair, it makes a fine bite to enjoy while wandering.

Access and Basic Information

Arita lies in the mountains of western Saga Prefecture, near the border with Nagasaki. From the rail station you can reach the district of kilns on foot or by car, and nearby eateries and souvenir shops let you buy or taste godofu. Some shops sell it to take away, making it a popular gift as well.

A Quick Tip

First taste it plain to enjoy the bean flavor and chewy texture as they are. Trying various seasonings such as soy sauce, mustard, or in some areas a sweet sauce can bring new discoveries. When taking it home chilled, it is best to enjoy it as soon as possible.

Practical Travel Notes

• Arita bustles each year during the Arita Ceramic Fair over the spring holidays, and many people enjoy godofu as a bite while wandering during this time. Tasting it alongside a tour of the kilns is recommended.
• The ways to enjoy it are varied, ranging from savory styles such as wasabi soy sauce, vinegar miso, and sesame soy sauce to a sweet style drizzled with brown-sugar syrup. Since how it is served differs by shop, if it is your first time, starting with the classic soy sauce style lets you appreciate the ingredient flavor well.
• Because take-home portions rely on the delicate texture set with kudzu and starch, storing them chilled and enjoying them as soon as possible is wise. Some shops sell gift portions, so buying later in your trip makes them easier to carry.