Kawagoe Grilled Eel: Where to Eat & Prices (Saitama)

Along the warehouse lined streets of Kawagoe, often called little Edo, grilled eel has been a beloved dish for generations. It is said to have begun when eel caught in the nearby rivers and marshes was prepared with the refined techniques of old Edo. Slowly grilled over binchotan and other charcoal, the eel turns crisp outside and tender within, and the sweet, savory aroma of long simmered sauce drifts out onto the street.

Highlights

The greatest charm lies in how each shop guards its own balance of grilling and sauce. In the Kanto style the back split eel is first grilled plain, then steamed to shed excess fat, then coated with sauce and grilled again. This patient process yields a remarkably soft texture. Enjoy the rising steam and glossy sheen the moment the lacquered box is opened.

Enjoying the Seasons

On the midsummer day of the ox, both locals and visitors from afar line up outside the shops. Even when the heat dulls the appetite, the richness of the eel and the fragrance of sansho pepper keep the meal moving. Savoring it slowly in the calm of autumn or winter is a pleasure of its own.

Access and Basic Information

The old warehouse district is within walking distance of Hon Kawagoe Station on the Seibu Shinjuku Line and Kawagoe Station on the Tobu Tojo Line. Many famous shops cluster around Ichibangai. Visiting alongside Kawagoe sights such as the Bell of Time and Candy Alley is recommended.

Practical Travel Notes

Popular shops fill up before noon, and the day of the ox and holidays are especially crowded, so arriving early or reserving ahead is reassuring. An eel box commonly starts from the several thousand yen range, and it can take time from ordering to serving, so allow yourself some leeway. Hours and closing days differ by shop and change easily, so checking ahead is the surest approach.

A Quick Tip

Come with a slightly empty stomach before strolling and snacking. Pairing the eel box with a clear liver soup deepens the sense of satisfaction.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Main area where it is served: The official website of the Koedo Kawagoe Tourism Association lists more than a dozen eel restaurants, among them long-established names such as "Azumaya," founded in the first year of the Meiji era, "Ichinoya," founded in Tenpo 3, and "Ogawato," founded in Taisho 12.
• A long-established restaurant to try: Ogakiku (3-22 Nakacho, Kawagoe City; founded in Bunka 4, 1807) / weekdays 11:00-14:00 and 16:30-19:30 (L.O. 19:00), weekends and public holidays 10:40-18:30 (L.O. 18:00). Closed on Thursdays (except public holidays), with other irregular closing days. Tel. 049-222-0034.
• Notes on reservations: Ogakiku takes reservations by telephone from 10:00 in the morning; the lunch sitting can be booked from 1 week in advance for parties of up to 8, and the evening sitting from 1 month in advance for parties of up to 16. Reservations are not accepted for weekends and public holidays.

* Opening hours and prices differ from one establishment to another.

(Sources: the "Eel Cuisine" page of the official Koedo Kawagoe Tourism Association website, and the official Ogakiku website)

Information Sources

This article is compiled from Saitama Prefecture's tourism information and from information published by the individual establishments. Prices, menus and seasons can change, so please check each establishment's official information for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From around 3,000 yen for a box of unaju
• Where to eat it: Specialist and long-established eel restaurants around the kurazukuri warehouse townscape of Kawagoe
• Recommended time of day: Mainly at lunchtime, combined with sightseeing in the old townscape
• Avoiding the crowds: The popular old restaurants can have queues, so make a reservation or shift your timing
• Enjoy it together with: The kurazukuri warehouse townscape, the Toki no Kane bell tower, Kashiya Yokocho candy alley, and Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine