Numazu Shirasu, Fresh Whitebait Rice Bowls
Shirasu are the young fry of anchovies, sardines and similar fish, measuring only about one to two centimetres. Their scales and bones have yet to develop, giving them a translucent whiteness. Numazu, facing Suruga Bay, is known for landing these delicate little fish. Raw shirasu, where freshness is everything, is a rare treat that can only be tasted on days when fishing took place. Boiled shirasu is also popular, prized for its soft texture and gentle salty flavor. Suruga Bay, which spreads out in front of Numazu, is the deepest bay in Japan, reaching about 2,500 metres at its deepest point. Where the abundant water flowing down from Mount Fuji meets the bounty of the deep sea, the water teems with plankton, and the shirasu that grow there are plump with concentrated flavour. Because the fishing grounds are close to the port, the catch can be chilled on ice and delivered right away, which is another reason you can enjoy raw shirasu that melts on the tongue.
Highlights
A bowl topped with glistening, translucent raw shirasu offers a delicate taste that melts in the mouth. Adding ginger or other condiments brings out the sea aroma and sweetness even more. Some shops serve a two-color bowl of boiled and raw, letting you enjoy the difference in texture. Some shops also offer a red-and-white two-color bowl combined with sakura-ebi caught in the same Suruga Bay, a luxurious dish that lets you taste the gifts of the bay all at once.
The Three Faces of Shirasu: Raw, Boiled and Dried
Shirasu may be a single word, but it wears many expressions. Raw shirasu, available only on the day of the catch, is defined by its silky texture and faint bitterness. Boiled shirasu, simmered until plump and tender, has a mild saltiness and a scent of the sea that goes beautifully with warm rice. Dry it further in the sun to drive off the moisture and it becomes shirasu-boshi or chirimen-jako, with the flavour concentrated; these keep well and can be enjoyed all year round. It is a surprise that the same fry can change so much simply through how it is handled after the catch. Since freshness is everything with shirasu, the fisheries cooperatives around Numazu make a point of boiling the catch as soon as possible after landing, and that extra care is what produces the soft, fluffy texture.
Numazu Port, Cradled by the Deep Sea and Mount Fuji
If you have come to taste shirasu, the Numazu Port area itself is a major sight. Looking out over Suruga Bay, the deepest in Japan, this port is a treasure house of seafood: not only shirasu but dried horse mackerel and mackerel, and even deep-sea fish. Climb Byuo, the large observation floodgate that is the symbol of the port, and you can take in Mount Fuji, the harbour and Suruga Bay in a single view. Markets, eateries and dried-fish shops stand side by side, and you can meet dishes unique to this sea, from raw shirasu bowls to two-color bowls with sakura-ebi and deep-fried deep-sea fish. Raw shirasu depends on that day's catch, so if you are set on it, aim for the period from spring after the closed season lifts into early winter, and if possible check availability before you visit.
Enjoying the Seasons
Shirasu fishing has a closed season, and in Shizuoka the fishing generally rests from around mid-January into March. From spring when the closed season lifts into early winter is the peak for raw shirasu, when the port town bustles with people seeking fresh bowls. Boiled and dried forms are available all year, so you can enjoy it whenever you visit.
Access and Basic Information
Eateries gather from Numazu Station to the area around Numazu Port, reachable by car or train. The port lines up markets and restaurants where you can dine with a sea view. Many shops serve shirasu bowls from around a thousand yen, an easy price to drop in for. Weekends get busy, so allowing extra time when you visit is reassuring.
Practical Travel Notes
Raw shirasu cannot be tasted without a catch that day, so it may not be served the day after bad weather or during the closed season starting in mid-January. If you are after the raw form, it is surest to choose the period from spring after the closed season lifts into early winter and, if possible, confirm availability in advance. Even on days when raw is difficult, boiled shirasu or a two-color bowl with sakura-ebi can be enjoyed, so it is reassuring to keep options open. The Numazu Port area gathers markets, eateries, and observation facilities, with the appeal of dining while gazing at the sea, reachable from Numazu Station by local bus or on foot. The port area crowds on weekends and holiday seasons, so arriving right at opening or slightly off-peak is calmer. Numazu is close to Mishima korokke and the wasabi bowl of the Izu direction, so it is easy to work into a day of eating around the eastern area.
A Quick Tip
Raw shirasu may not be served on some days depending on the catch, so checking in advance is a good idea. A two-color bowl with boiled shirasu can be enjoyed regardless of that day catch. Some shops offer a combination with sakura-ebi, recommended when you want to taste the gifts of Suruga Bay all at once.
Souvenir and Takeaway Tips
Numazu shirasu are the fry of anchovies and similar fish, a Shizuoka seafood landed at Numazu, Mochimune and other ports facing Suruga Bay. You can enjoy them fresh from the sea as raw shirasu, or gently boiled as kamaage shirasu, piled generously over a bowl of rice. Raw shirasu is all about freshness and does not keep, but dried shirasu and chirimen keep well and can be found at souvenir shops in the port town and by mail order, making them a good gift to take home. A taste of Numazu's famous shirasu comes highly recommended.
๐ Sources
This article is compiled from tourism information for Shizuoka Prefecture and information published by the individual shops. Prices, menus and seasonal availability are subject to change, so please check each shop's official information for details.
Sightseeing Checklist
- Budget guide: Around 1,000 yen and up for a shirasu rice bowl
- Where to eat it: Diners and restaurants around Numazu Port and Mochimune Port
- Best time of day: Mainly at lunchtime; raw shirasu is available outside the closed season
- Avoiding the crowds: Popular places at the harbour are busy at lunchtime, so go outside peak hours
- Combine it with: Dried shirasu as a souvenir, the Numazu Deep Sea Aquarium, Numazu Minato and the sea off Izu
๐ Location & Access
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โ๏ธ About this article
This article is compiled by the Tabitabi JAPAN editorial team from official and primary sources, including facility and shrine/temple websites, tourism information published by municipalities and tourism associations, and cultural-property records released by national and local governments. Prices, opening hours and event dates may change, so please also check the official information of each facility or local government before you visit.