Shikoku 88 Sacred Temples Pilgrimage: A 1200-Year Pilgrimage Path Walking with Kobo Daishi

Ohenro: Shikoku's Pilgrimage Culture Continuing for 1200 Years

The pilgrimage to the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku, visiting sacred sites connected to Kobo Daishi Kukai (774 to 835), commonly called Ohenro, is a traditional Japanese pilgrimage culture with a long history. It is a journey of about 1,400 kilometers visiting 88 sacred sites scattered across Shikoku's four prefectures, and many people still walk it in search of peace of mind and time to reflect on themselves. In recent years foreign pilgrims have also increased, drawing international attention.

Temple No. 1 Ryozenji (Tokushima)

Ryozenji in Oasa-cho Bando, Naruto City, Tokushima Prefecture, is the first sacred site of the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku. It is a temple of the Koyasan Shingon sect, with the mountain name Jikuwasan and a principal image of Shaka Nyorai. According to temple tradition, when Kobo Daishi toured Shikoku he performed rites here, and the name Jikuwasan Ryozenji is said to come from the idea of moving the sacred mountain of India to Japan. This is the temple of vow-making where pilgrims prepare their attire, such as the white robe, sedge hat, and staff, to begin the pilgrimage. Within Tokushima Prefecture stand the temples from the 1st to the 23rd, called the dojo of awakening the mind.

Pilgrimage Methods

Ways of doing the pilgrimage vary, including walking the entire route on foot (roughly 40 to 50 days), traveling by car (around 10 days), and joining a bus tour. It may be done all at once in a single continuous trip, or in separate segments over several visits.

Osettai Hospitality Culture

In Shikoku, the osettai culture of local residents providing beverages, food, and resting places to pilgrims free of charge is deeply rooted. It is an expression of faith in Kobo Daishi and a warm spirit that supports the pilgrimage culture. Custom holds that when you receive osettai, you hand over a pilgrim slip in return.

Access and Basic Information

• Temple No. 1 Ryozenji: About 10 minutes on foot (about 800 meters) from Bando Station on the JR Kotoku Line. It is right by the Ryozenji-mae bus stop of Tokushima Bus.
• By car: About 30 minutes from central Tokushima. A dedicated parking lot is available.
• Sutra reception and shop: At Ryozenji you can obtain pilgrimage items such as the white robe, stamp book, and staff. The gate opens from morning, with visiting generally around 7:00 to 17:00 (confirm the latest hours).

Practical Travel Notes

• Recommended season and time: Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November), with mild weather, are best for the walking pilgrimage. Beware heatstroke in summer and snow or ice at mountain temples in winter. Temples can be visited from early morning, and mornings are ideal to avoid crowds.
• Estimated time needed: The full circuit takes about 40 to 50 days on foot or around 10 days by car. Even a segment covering just a few temples in Tokushima gives a sense of the pilgrimage in one to two days.
• Avoiding crowds: Temples are busy on weekends, during Golden Week, and during group bus tour hours. Weekday mornings are relatively quiet.
• Nearby real spots: Temple No. 2 Gokurakuji and Temple No. 3 Konsenji (both in the Naruto and Itano area, close to Ryozenji), Oasahiko Shrine, and the German House connected to the Bando prisoner-of-war camp.
• Budget sense: A sutra stamp is about 300 yen per temple. A full set of pilgrimage attire costs from several thousand yen. For a walking pilgrimage, lodging is the main expense.

A Word of Advice

If it is your first time, obtaining attire and a stamp book at the shop of Temple No. 1 Ryozenji is recommended. Even without completing the whole circuit, a segmented pilgrimage of just a few temples in Tokushima gives ample flavor of Ohenro. Keep quiet at the temples and stay considerate of other pilgrims and local residents. When you receive osettai, express your gratitude.

📚 Sources

This article draws mainly on the pilgrimage and temple guidance published by the association of the eighty eight sacred places of Shikoku, the temples in Tokushima, and the sightseeing information of the relevant municipalities. It also reflects the interpretive signs along the pilgrim path and at each temple. Stamp and worship information and path conditions may change, so please confirm with the official information of each temple or the association before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: Thirty minutes to one hour per temple, or a day to several days for many.
• What to bring: The pilgrim basics such as a stamp book, incense, candles, and coins; comfortable shoes and rain gear for walking.
• How to get around: Tokushima is the training ground of resolve beginning at the first temple; go by car, bus, or on foot to suit your energy.
• Time of day: Stamp reception hours are set, so plan to tour from the morning.
• Etiquette: On the pilgrimage, follow the manners and visit quietly.