Handa Somen Noodles: One of Japan's Three Great Somen Noodles That Tokushima is Proud Of

Handa Somen: A Unique Somen Culture Born in Tokushima

Somen means thin and delicate, or so common belief holds, yet Tokushima gently and powerfully overturns that idea. Handa somen, passed down in the Handa district (former Handa Town) of Tsurugi Town, Mima District, Tokushima Prefecture, is among the thicker of hand-stretched somen, prized for its firmness and elasticity. The moment it enters your mouth, its chewy resistance makes you open your eyes wide and think, so somen was this rich a food.

Handa somen is sometimes counted among Japan's three great somen, alongside Ibonoito of Hyogo and Miwa Somen of Nara. While its name is known nationwide, a profound somen culture that can only be tasted locally in the Handa area still lives on today.

Characteristics of Handa Somen

The greatest individuality of Handa somen is its thickness and a whiteness that seems to let light through. Whereas ordinary somen is thin, the standard for Handa somen is a thicker gauge known as number 28, about midway between somen and hiyamugi in thickness. Because it does not stretch easily even after boiling and does not readily lose its firmness over time, it is perfect for those who want to enjoy a meal slowly.

In summer it is served as chilled zaru somen, its bouncy texture and refreshing throat-feel awakening an appetite dulled by the heat. For eating it chilled, July to August is best. In winter, the local standard is nyumen, steeped in warm broth, where the firmly thick noodles absorb the umami of the broth and warm you from the core. Its uses are versatile, added to the finish of a hot pot or arranged in a stir-fry.

The Handa Area and the History of Somen

The origins of Handa somen go back to the Edo period. This land prospered through water transport on the Yoshino River, and it is said that boatmen brought back the technique of somen making from Miwa in Nara, where it took root as a winter side occupation. Some accounts trace the origin to the Muromachi period, but the transmission of the technique from Miwa is dated to the Edo period.

Why did somen culture take root here? The answer lies in Handa's rich natural environment: the good-quality water and fertile soil brought by the Yoshino River, also called Shikoku Saburo, and the dry, cold winds that blow through the mountain valley between the Yoshino River and Mount Tsurugi. These conditions together fostered an ideal climate for somen making.

Even now, during the cold winter period, you can see artisans stretching noodles by hand from before dawn. The scene of kanboshi, or cold drying, where the somen gleams white while exposed to the cold wind, is an original landscape that only winter Handa possesses.

Souvenirs and Purchasing

Handa somen is widely available at supermarkets, roadside stations, and souvenir shops throughout Tokushima Prefecture, but if you have traveled all the way to the site, purchasing at direct-sale shops or factory outlets around Handa is recommended. Several makers exist, and comparing products of different thicknesses and grades is a pleasure unique to being on site. Gift assortments are also popular, and because the best-before date is long, it is well suited to buying in bulk.

Access and Basic Information

• Nearest station: Anabuki Station on the JR Tokushima Line. About 15 minutes by car from the station to the Handa district.
• By car: Mima IC on the Tokushima Expressway is the nearest interchange, about 20 minutes from the IC to the Handa district. About one hour by car from central Tokushima.
• Roadside station: In nearby Sadamitsu in Tsurugi Town is the Michi-no-Eki Sadamitsu Yuyukan, where you can eat dishes using Handa somen and buy souvenirs. Confirm menu and hours with the latest information.
• Because it is a quiet mountain area, convenience stores are scarce. Preparing drinks and light snacks in advance is reassuring.

Practical Travel Notes

• Recommended season and time: The peak of somen making is the cold period from October to March, so this season is best if you want to see the cold-drying scenery and artisanal skill. Tasting comparisons and souvenir buying are possible year round, and direct-sale shops are relatively uncrowded on weekday mornings.
• Estimated time needed: Half a day for touring direct-sale shops and a meal at the roadside station. A one-night, two-day trip is recommended if combined with Mount Tsurugi or Oboke and Koboke.
• Avoiding crowds: Weekday mornings with few tourists are ideal. If you wish to tour a factory, inquire by phone in advance.
• Nearby real spots: Michi-no-Eki Sadamitsu Yuyukan, Mount Tsurugi (the second highest peak in western Japan), Oboke and Koboke (a nationally designated Special Natural Monument and Place of Scenic Beauty), and the udatsu townscape of Wakimachi.
• Budget sense: Somen is mainly sold in packs from several hundred yen. A meal at a roadside station is around 1,000 yen. The main expense is transportation.

A Word of Advice

Because each of the several Handa somen makers has a slightly different flavor, choosing a comparison set helps you find a favorite. If you wish to tour a factory, a walk-in is often difficult to accommodate, so always reserve or inquire by phone in advance. Building an itinerary that places Handa somen at its axis while touring the magnificent mountain villages of Tokushima, such as Mount Tsurugi and Oboke and Koboke, makes for a fulfilling trip that brings together nature, culture, and food.

📚 Sources

This article draws mainly on the information published by the noodle makers and cooperative of the Handa district of Tsurugi town, the home of Handa somen, the Michi no Eki Sadamitsu Yuyukan, and the sightseeing information of Tsurugi town and Tokushima Prefecture. It also reflects the authority materials on the history and characteristics of Handa somen. Whether factory tours are possible and shop hours may change, so please confirm with the official information of each maker or roadside station before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About half a day for touring direct sale shops and a meal at the roadside station.
• What to bring: As somen keeps well, prepare to carry bulk purchases; reserve factory tours in advance.
• How to get around: Coming by car is convenient; enjoy comparing and buying at direct sale shops and the roadside station.
• Time of day: Direct sale shops are relatively uncrowded on weekday mornings; the cold drying scenery is seen on winter early mornings.
• Note: Convenience stores are scarce in the mountain valley, so prepare drinks and snacks in advance.