Dozeu Nabe: A Local Food Guide for Visitors (Tokyo)

Dozeu is the old Tokyo way of saying dojo, which means loach. Centered on Asakusa, this hotpot has been loved for generations: prepared loach is simmered in a shallow iron pan with a sweet and savory broth, then topped with a generous heap of chopped spring onion. It has been cherished since the days of old Edo as a stamina building dish for ordinary people. The Asakusa shop Komagata Dozeu is said to have been founded in 1801, carrying more than two centuries of history into the present.

Highlights

• The tender texture of loach simmered in a shallow iron pan
• The use of a mountain of spring onion along with chili powder and Japanese pepper
• A history that includes long established shops over two centuries old
• Comparing it with yanagawa nabe, a version bound with egg

Enjoying the Seasons

During the midsummer dog days there was a custom of eating it, alongside eel, as a nourishing dish to beat the heat. In winter the piping hot pot warms you from the core. Whether you eat the spring onion just as it wilts or simmer it thoroughly changes the flavor, which is part of the fun.

Access and Basic Information

• Long established specialty shops are scattered around Asakusa
• Within walking distance of Asakusa Station on the Toei Asakusa and Tokyo Metro Ginza lines, and Kuramae Station on the Toei Asakusa line
• Many shops let you order a single portion
• Some shops let you relax on tatami rooms that retain an old Edo mood

Practical Travel Notes

• Time and season: Around the midsummer day of the ox, it grows popular as a nourishing dish. Winter is the season when the piping hot pot soothes the body. To enjoy it calmly, aim for right after opening or a time outside the lunch rush.
• Reservations: Popular long established shops are busy at both lunch and dinner, and seating on the wooden floor may be shared. If your group is large or you want a tatami room, it is reassuring to check by phone in advance.
• How to eat: Onto the loach bubbling in the broth, add as much chopped spring onion as you like from the table, then adjust the taste with chili powder or Japanese pepper. Rather than adding the onion all at once, the connoisseur way is to top it up little by little as it cooks.
• Nearby spots: It is easy to combine with Sensoji temple, the Kaminarimon gate, Nakamise Street, and a stroll along the Sumida River, and there is plenty to snack on afterward.

A Quick Tip

Rather than adding all the spring onion at once, top it up little by little as it cooks to enjoy the aroma longer. A sprinkle of Japanese pepper sharpens the flavor.