Edomae Sushi: A Local Food Guide for Visitors (Tokyo)

This is the original style of hand pressed sushi that emerged as street stall fast food in the Edo period. In an age without refrigeration, the craft lay in extending the life of fish caught in Tokyo Bay, known as Edomae, by curing them with vinegar or salt, simmering them, or brushing them with a reduced sauce. The fish market culture that ran from Tsukiji to Toyosu carries this flavor into the present.

Highlights

• The deep flavor created by fish that has been carefully prepared
• The aroma and richness of rice seasoned with red vinegar
• Conversation with the chef across the counter
• Classic Edomae toppings such as gizzard shad and simmered clam

Enjoying the Seasons

Sushi is a mirror that reflects the seasonal fish of the year. Spring brings sea bream and cockle, summer brings gizzard shad and conger eel, autumn brings saury, and winter brings tuna and cold yellowtail, so the lineup changes with the season. Asking about what is in season is the connoisseur way to enjoy it.

Access and Basic Information

• Famous shops are scattered around the outer market of Tsukiji, with Tsukiji Station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya line convenient
• Fresh sushi can also be enjoyed at the Toyosu market, reached from Shijo-mae Station on the Yurikamome
• Prices range widely from stand and eat counters to luxury counters
• Popular shops often require reservations

Practical Travel Notes

• Budget feel: Prices vary greatly with the class of the shop. At a stand and eat shop a piece runs around one hundred yen, and even a set is about one thousand. At a proper counter, the lunch chef choice course tends to be more affordable than the luxury dinner course. The trick is to choose the shop to match your budget.
• Reservations: Popular counter shops at dinner may require booking weeks or months ahead. If you want to enjoy the same chef work more casually, the lunch chef choice, usually easier to reserve, is the target.
• How to eat: You may use your hands or chopsticks. If dipping in soy sauce, touch only the edge of the topping, not the rice. Refresh your palate with pickled ginger, and ask about what is in season.
• Nearby spots: The Tsukiji outer market is fun for snacking, and Toyosu market can be toured on some days. The Kabukiza theater and Ginza are close, making it easy to combine with sightseeing.

A Quick Tip

Ordering the chef choice course lets you fully enjoy the day finest fish and the chef judgment. Touch only the edge of the topping to the soy sauce so the rice keeps its shape and the piece stays neat.