Edomae Unagi: A Local Food Guide for Visitors (Tokyo)

Grilled eel differs in method between eastern and western Japan, and the Edomae way is to open the eel along the back, steam it once, and then grill it. Steaming draws out excess fat and leaves the flesh soft and fluffy. The glazed eel, dipped again and again in a secret sauce and grilled until fragrant, is most classically enjoyed as unaju, served over rice in a lacquered box.

Highlights

• The soft and fluffy texture that comes from opening along the back, steaming, then grilling
• The deep flavor of a secret sauce replenished over generations
• The fragrant aroma of grilling over charcoal
• Many ways to enjoy it, such as boxed eel, eel bowl, and plain grilled eel

Enjoying the Seasons

The custom of eating eel on the midsummer day of the ox is famously said to have been devised by Hiraga Gennai in the Edo period, and it is still enjoyed as a stamina food to get through the heat. Wild eel from autumn into winter, rich with fat, is also exceptional, so you can enjoy a different appeal in each season.

Access and Basic Information

• Asakusa and Nihonbashi have many long established eel specialty shops
• With the work of opening the back, steaming, and grilling, it takes time from ordering to serving
• Boxed eel can be chosen by grades with names like pine, bamboo, and plum
• Making a reservation can shorten the waiting time

Practical Travel Notes

• Choosing a grade: The difference between pine, bamboo, and plum (regular, superior, extra superior) is basically the amount of eel, and at many shops the quality itself is the same. A standard grade is plenty satisfying, and you can pick a higher grade when you want to eat a lot.
• Time and reservations: Because opening, steaming, and grilling all take effort, it is not unusual to wait about thirty minutes for serving. Allow plenty of time and reserve if you can. It is especially crowded around the midsummer day of the ox.
• How to eat: Rather than adding Japanese pepper from the start, a sprinkle partway through lets you enjoy the shift in aroma. Trying plain grilled eel with wasabi and soy sauce brings out the eel natural flavor.
• Nearby spots: An Asakusa shop pairs with Sensoji temple and a Nihonbashi shop with the district long established shops, so you can dine while feeling the mood of old Edo.

A Quick Tip

Since grilling takes time, visit with time to spare. A final sprinkle of Japanese pepper at the end makes the aroma stand out.