Tsukishima Monjayaki: Local Food Guide (Tokyo)

Tsukishima, a district that grew on reclaimed land along Tokyo Bay, is known as the home of monjayaki. Along the Nishinaka-dori shopping street, commonly called Monja Street and close to the Sumida River, specialty shops stand side by side, and you grill your own dish at a tabletop iron plate. The charm lies in a distinctive style where you shape a loose batter into a ring, fry the fillings inside, and cook everything until fragrant.

Highlights

• The lively atmosphere of the many specialty shops gathered on Monja Street
• A wide range of toppings such as cod roe, mochi, cheese, and seafood
• The unique method of building a batter ring on the iron plate
• The nostalgic mood of back alleys that recall the Showa era

Enjoying the Seasons

In summer many visitors combine a meal with the Sumida River fireworks, and gathering around the iron plate in a light cotton kimono is a treat. In winter the hot plate warms you up, so the cold season is when monja truly shines. It is a downtown flavor to enjoy all year round.

Access and Basic Information

• A short walk from Tsukishima Station on the Tokyo Metro Yurakucho and Toei Oedo lines
• Exit 7 is convenient for Monja Street, and you reach the entrance right as you leave the exit
• Many shops are open from midday until evening
• Weekends are crowded, so reservations or an early visit are recommended

Practical Travel Notes

• Time and season: Weekends and the summer fireworks season are especially crowded. To avoid the crush, aim for a weekday lunchtime or the early evening before the dinner rush. Autumn and winter, when you long for the hot plate, are also recommended.
• Reservations: On weekend and holiday evenings lines are inevitable, and people sometimes queue before opening. To be sure of enjoying a popular shop, reserve or visit early.
• Cooking and manners: If it is your first time, ask the staff to show you and you will not go wrong. Fry the fillings in the loose batter first to build a ring, then pour the liquid inside. The local way is to scrape it off the plate little by little with the small spatula called a hagashi. In case of oil splatter, clothes you do not mind getting dirty are reassuring.
• Nearby spots: It is easy to reach from Ginza, Tsukiji, and Toyosu market, and easy to drop by between sights. It also pairs well with a stroll along the Sumida River terrace.

A Quick Tip

If it is your first time, ask the staff to show you how to cook it and you will not go wrong. The local way is to scrape it off the plate little by little with the small spatula called a hagashi.