Kagawa Winter Travel: Kotohira Shrine, Ritsurin Garden & Naoshima

The Appeal of Kagawa in Winter

Wrapped in the mild climate of the Seto Inland Sea, Kagawa Prefecture is, in truth, at its very best as a travel destination in winter. The faint drift of incense smoke in crisp, cold air; a garden's pine trees emerging softly from morning mist; the salt wind crossing a winter sea toward contemporary art—. The Kagawa of winter, eerily quiet compared to the bustle of summer and autumn, reveals a true face impossible to encounter in more crowded seasons.

Claiming famous sights to yourself without worrying about crowds, sitting shoulder to shoulder with a local grandfather slurping piping-hot udon, having the winter sky visible from the top of a stone staircase all to yourself—these are the kinds of luxurious moments that Kagawa's winter holds in abundance. If you've been thinking "I'll go someday," let that someday be winter. Kagawa will become a travel destination you never forget.

Kotohira-gu Shrine New Year's Visit

Affectionately called "Kompira-san" by people across Japan, Kotohira-gu Shrine receives approximately 300,000 worshippers during the first three days of the new year alone—one of Shikoku's supreme power spots. With each step taken up the 785 stone steps to the main hall (Hon-miya) in the crystalline winter air, excess noise in the mind seems to fall away, leaving a feeling of fresh, sharpened clarity. As you gain altitude step by step, the winter panorama of the Sanuki Plain opening below rewards every effort of the climb.

Not to be missed are the early morning and dusk moments when lanterns lining both sides of the stone steps are lit. Orange flames dancing on the stone pavement, mingling in the cold air with the rising tendrils of incense smoke, create an almost fantastical atmosphere. The beauty of it is the kind that makes "breathtaking" the only word that fits.

Best season and recommended visiting hours are weekdays from January 4th onward, after the New Year's rush (January 1st–3rd) has subsided. The stream of people on the approach calms considerably, allowing you to savor each stone step at your own pace. For the most dedicated visitors, pre-dawn early morning pilgrimage is recommended—frost glittering on the stone pavement in silence, lantern flames swaying in the still-dark precincts, is a moment that can only be experienced here.

Along the approach, stalls operated by the "Gonin Hyakusho" (five licensed candy vendors holding a special traditional selling permit) line the path. The specialty "Kamiyoame" (shrine candy), with its distinctive style of being cracked open with a small hammer before eating, has been beloved as a good-luck keepsake by locals since ancient times—and makes a wonderful souvenir. After the hard-earned satisfaction of climbing all 785 steps, descend and seek out a hot bowl of "kamaage udon" (freshly boiled, hot udon served directly from the pot with dipping broth) at one of the restaurants in the temple gate town below. The soft, pillowy noodles and gentle dashi will warm you gently from your very core.

Access

A 10-minute walk from JR Kotohira Station or Kotoden (Takamatsu-Kotohira Electric Railroad) Kotohira Station brings you to the Omon gate (the stone staircase entrance). From Takamatsu Station, the JR Dosan Line limited express takes about 1 hour; the direct Kotoden Kotohira Line takes about 1 hour 15 minutes—both comfortable journeys. The road from the station to the approach entrance is nearly flat, so even carrying luggage is manageable.

However, the stone steps have fairly large rises and become extremely slippery when wet from winter rain or morning dew. Non-heeled shoes with solid grip—sneakers—are an absolute necessity. The precincts have several tea houses along the way for rest stops, so rather than pushing all the way to the top in one go, progressing at your own pace while enjoying the scenery is the approach that sustains you. The "Oku-sha" (inner shrine, 1,368 steps total) continues beyond the main hall—for those with energy to spare, the challenge and the summit views are well worth it.

💡 Tip for travelers: Shuttle buses may operate during the first three days of the New Year, so checking Kotohira Town's tourism information in advance is reassuring. Climbing the stone steps warms you up more than you would expect, so a layered outfit that is easy to take off and put back on is by far the best choice. Prepare gloves and heat packs before you set out. A path also continues beyond the main hall to the "Oku-sha" (inner shrine, 1,368 steps). If you have energy to spare, do take on the challenge; the view from the summit brings an overwhelming sense of achievement that an ordinary visit cannot give you.

Ritsurin Garden (Ritsurin Koen)

Praised as "a garden without peer under heaven" and designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty (Tokubetsu Meisho)—the highest category of Japanese garden designation—Ritsurin Garden is one of Japan's finest. In its vast grounds, approximately 3.5 times the area of Tokyo Dome, more than 1,400 carefully tended pine trees stand in rows, and between them, six ponds and thirteen artificial hills (tsukiyama) spread in a precisely balanced composition. The magnificence of the scenery is evidenced by its three-star rating in the Michelin Green Guide.

In winter, this garden exists in crisp, composed quietude. The morning view of "Sanuki Fuji" (Mt. Iino, an elegant conical peak) hazily white through the bare tree branches beyond—like a single sheet of ink painting executed with careful brushwork—is something only winter offers. With far fewer visitors than in other seasons, you can enjoy a virtually private stroll through this vast garden. The only sounds: crunching gravel underfoot, and the cold wind crossing the pond surface—a silence and solitude available only in this season, a very particular luxury.

Best Season: The winter morning (January–February), immediately after opening, before many visitors arrive

Access: Approximately 15 minutes by bus from JR/Kotoden Takamatsu Station; or a 10-minute walk from Kotoden "Ritsurin Koen Higashiguchi Station"

💡 Tip for travelers: Admission is 500 yen for adults and 170 yen for elementary and junior high school students (free for preschool children), a surprisingly reasonable price for a garden of this stature. In winter (roughly November to February) opening hours are around 7:00 to 17:00, but they shift with the time of sunset, so check the official website in advance. The grounds have many gravel paths, so wear comfortable flat shoes. Dress warmly with thermal innerwear under a down jacket so you are ready for the morning chill. Matcha time at Kikugetsu-tei is most relaxed in the morning before the crowds arrive, and is recommended.

Naoshima (Naoshima Island)

Winter Naoshima has a quiet depth that neither the busy summer nor the clear autumn can replicate. The island's art sites—both the outdoor installations and the museum buildings designed by Tadao Ando—take on a completely different atmosphere in winter light, which is lower and more directional than in other seasons.

The quiet winter season means far fewer visitors, allowing you to spend as long as you like in front of each artwork, truly absorbing it. Moving between art houses (geijutsu no ie) in the silent island lanes, sitting with a work in an empty gallery, looking out at the gray winter sea from the terrace of Benesse House—these are experiences uniquely available in winter.

Best Season: December through February; weekdays are quieter than weekends even in winter

Access: Ferry from Takamatsu Port (approximately 50 minutes) or from Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture (approximately 20 minutes)

💡 Tip for travelers: Some major facilities, such as the Chichu Art Museum, are by advance reservation only. Opening days are especially limited in winter, so be sure to reserve in advance through the official website. In winter (December to February) many facilities close on Mondays, and some set aside closed periods, so always check each facility's latest opening information before you visit. There is little on the island to block the wind, and it often feels several degrees colder than on the mainland. A windbreaker, a heavy coat, gloves, and a scarf are essential. Slipping a heat pack into your pocket gives you a reliable ally when the wind along the coast picks up.

Practical Tips for Winter Travel in Kagawa

• Clothing: The Seto Inland Sea climate is relatively mild by Japanese standards, but mornings and evenings on the water are cold—dress in layers
• Transportation: In winter, ferry schedules may be affected by rough seas; check weather conditions and schedules when planning island visits
• Udon in Winter: The winter season is considered by many udon enthusiasts to be the best time—warming kake udon (broth udon) tastes particularly wonderful in cold weather
• New Year's Period: The January 1st–3rd period at Kotohira-gu is extremely crowded; if your goal is a quieter, more meditative experience, visiting from January 4th onward is strongly recommended