Rainy Day in Shiga: Best Indoor Spots & Activities

Lake Biwa Museum

"Lake Biwa is just a big lake, right?" — if you think so, this museum will overturn that perception from its very foundation.

Lake Biwa, Japan's largest lake, is actually an "ancient lake" with a mind-bogglingly long history of about four million years. The Lake Biwa Museum lets you learn about its special ecosystem, one of the few in the world, not from a textbook but at an experiential level. The biggest highlight in the museum is the Lake Biwa giant catfish swimming serenely in a huge tank. Its presence, exceeding one meter in length, is so overwhelming you can't help but gasp even through the glass, and you're purely surprised that "such a creature lived in Lake Biwa." The once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the endemic species that inhabit only Lake Biwa is an irreplaceable experience that can excite adults who love creatures and small children alike.

The exhibits don't stop at just looking; the hands-on corners are also substantial, so before you know it, no amount of time is enough. If you tour every corner of the museum, it's recommended to set aside a generous two to three hours. For lunch, the local way is to savor a set meal using fish caught in Lake Biwa at the in-museum restaurant. Being able to have dishes using biwa trout is truly a privilege unique to this place. The refined flavor raised in clear lake water is unforgettable once you've eaten it.

There's a reason you should come here especially on a rainy day. It's a popular facility crowded with families on sunny weekends, but a rainy weekday is a hidden-gem timing when you can have the exhibits leisurely to yourself. Carefully observing creatures in front of the large tank, or slowly listening to a gallery talk by a curator — being able to spend time in ways difficult during crowds is the true joy of a rainy day.

Best Season: It's enjoyable year-round, but spring to early summer (April to June), when the waterside creatures become active, gives the exhibits a livelier impression. Rainy days during the rainy season have few visitors and are a target season for leisurely viewing. The recommended time of day is the 10 a.m. hour right after opening. With few people, you can leisurely take the best seat in front of the tank.

Access: About 30 minutes by bus from the west exit of "Kusatsu Station" on the JR Biwako Line, get off right at "Lake Biwa Museum." Kusatsu Station has good access, about 20 minutes by Special Rapid from Kyoto Station. Being able to head over without transfers from the Osaka direction too is a welcome point.

Travel Tip: The parking lot is on the larger side, but it tends to get crowded on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Even on a rainy day, visiting in the 10 a.m. hour right after opening lets you enter relatively smoothly. Audio guides are also available for rent, so those who want to enjoy the exhibits more deeply should make use of them. The aquarium exhibit area is dim, so if you have children with you, watch your footing. The museum shop also stocks original goods featuring Lake Biwa's endemic species, and searching for souvenirs available only here is one of the joys.

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MIHO MUSEUM

"Was there such a place in the mountains?" — many first-time visitors can't help but let out such a voice.

The MIHO MUSEUM, which suddenly appears amid the deep green of the mountains in Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, is truly a "hidden-village museum" designed by the world-renowned architect I. M. Pei, who created the glass pyramid of the Louvre. The path from the reception to the museum's main building is already the start of the extraordinary; the building appears beyond a tunnel enveloped in green and a suspension bridge spanning the deep mountains. The very process of reaching the destination is already one art experience.

When you step into the museum, treasures gathered from ancient Egypt, Greece, the Orient, and Asia line up quietly. Each radiates the genuine brilliance of having crossed thousands of years, and in the refined space where lighting and natural light cross exquisitely, you feel as if opening the doors of the eras one by one. Even if you're not knowledgeable about art, the overwhelming presence that "the real thing" possesses will surely come through — this is a place we want you to visit with such conviction.

On rainy days, the outside mist creates a fantastical scene through the glass, and you can enjoy a moist, deep beauty different from sunny days. On this day when the mountain greenery, wet with rain, increases in vividness, the compatibility with the museum's serene air is outstanding. It makes you want to say not "to the museum because it's rainy," but "to the MIHO MUSEUM precisely because it's rainy."

Actually quietly popular even among non-art-fans is the dining at the in-museum restaurant. The course meals making use of seasonal ingredients are a special moment had within the refined space. Planning lunch along with viewing the exhibits greatly raises your day's satisfaction. However, since seating is limited, advance reservation is the sure bet.

Best Season: April to May, when cherry blossoms and fresh greenery color the mountains, and October to November, when colorful autumn foliage dyes the museum's exterior walls, are especially recommended. On rainy days, the moist mountain greenery and mist stand out, matching the museum's serene atmosphere beyond compare. In the early-morning hours, the way the light enters is soft, and the natural light in the exhibition rooms feels at its most beautiful.

Access: About 55 minutes by Teisan Bus from the south exit of "Ishiyama Station" on the JR Biwako Line, get off at "MIHO MUSEUM." Since bus service is extremely limited, be sure to check the round-trip timetable in advance. From Kyoto Station to Ishiyama Station is about 10 minutes by Special Rapid, so the access itself is good, but if you miss the bus, you'll wait a considerable time until the next one. Plan with time to spare.

Travel Tip: Closed on Mondays (the next day if Monday is a holiday), and there may be temporary closures during exhibition-change periods. Be sure to check the opening schedule on the official website before planning a visit. Because it's in the mountains, the temperature can be 2 to 3°C lower than the city area, so it's wise to bring an extra jacket not only in chilly seasons but even in summer. The admission fee may feel a bit high, but this experience, where architecture, collection, and natural environment form a trinity, will surely exceed that value.

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Mt. Hiei Enryakuji (Hall Worship)

The sound of raindrops quietly striking the stone pavement. The mist slowly flowing between the cedar groves. The Enryakuji you encounter amid such a mysterious scene has an entirely different face from sunny days.

Mt. Hiei Enryakuji, the head temple of the Tendai sect boasting over 1,200 years of history, is a sacred site registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage. Within the vast precinct, the one we especially want you to visit is the hall worship of the Konpon Chudo. The "inextinguishable dharma lamp" rising up in the dim hall is a flame of unimaginable history, said to have continued burning without ever going out for 1,200 years since Saicho lit it. Standing before its flickering light, you are quietly made to realize, without words, the weight of 1,200 years of time and the smallness of your own existence. A time found only here, cut off from the bustle of daily life, flows here.

The greatest charm of a rainy day is that there are few worshippers, so you can feel the solemn air of the hall more deeply, as your own. The moss and greenery of the wet precinct increase in vividness, and the mist-enveloped mountain scenery is mysterious itself. It's understandable in a word that there are many repeaters who visit again and again, saying "Enryakuji in the rain is the real thing." After worship, a cup of warm amazake or freshly cut soba at a teahouse in the precinct — the time of soaking in the afterglow while warming from the core is also exceptional.

Best Season: May to June, when the fresh greenery is beautiful, and October to November, when the foliage dyes the precinct golden, are especially worth seeing. The snowy winter is enveloped in fantastical stillness, but you need to take ample care with your footing. The recommended time for worship is the early-morning hours. The early morning when mist remains reaches the height of a mystical atmosphere, and you feel as if you've crossed eras.

Access: About 11 minutes by cable car from Keihan "Sakamoto-Hieizanguchi Station," and about 10 minutes on foot after getting off at "Cable Enryakuji Station" to the Toto area. From the Kyoto side, you can also access it by transferring from the cable car and ropeway from "Yase-Hieizanguchi Station" on the Eizan Railway. A welcome point is that it's easy to access from either Kyoto or Osaka.

Travel Tip: The precinct is extremely vast, and just touring the main areas requires two to three hours. On rainy days, the stone pavement becomes extremely slippery, so comfortable shoes with firm grip are essential. Rather than a folding umbrella, a raincoat lets you use both hands and makes moving around the precinct much easier, so do bring one. In winter there's also the possibility of snow accumulation and freezing, so check conditions on the official website before heading over. Those who have a goshuincho (seal stamp book) are recommended to get a stamp at the Konpon Chudo.

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Omi-Hachiman City Museum

There are places where the weight of history dwells in the building itself.

The old town of Omi-Hachiman, where old warehouse-style buildings quietly line up. The Omi-Hachiman City Museum, standing amid that atmospheric townscape, is a complex facility that carefully and lovingly unravels the history of this land, from the era of Azuchi Castle built by Oda Nobunaga to the rise and fall of the Omi merchants famous throughout the country.

Even if you've heard the term "Omi merchant," surprisingly few people know their true image. The story of these merchants, who traveled back and forth across Japan to build wealth and brought culture and education to communities with the spirit of "sanpo-yoshi (good for three sides)," gradually presses upon your chest as you read through the exhibits. It can be felt not as a history of memorizing numbers and years, but as the drama of living human beings — that is the greatest charm of this museum. The interior is compact yet the density of the exhibits is high, and if you speak to a local curator, you may get a careful explanation. The warm human kindness unique to a small regional museum, which you can't taste at large tourist facilities, stays in your heart.

After viewing the museum, it's recommended to stroll the surrounding warehouse-style townscape just as it is. The scenery of white walls and black lattices quietly wet with rain has more atmosphere than on sunny days, and you can't help but want to set up your camera. Nearby, cafes that carefully use local ingredients and long-established Japanese confectioneries are also dotted about, and the time spent dropping in casually is full of a leisure that you can never taste in a hurried tour.

Best Season: It's enjoyable year-round, but spring (March to April) is also the season when cherry blossoms look great on the nearby Hachimanbori, and the cherry blossoms reflected on the water surface and the warehouse townscape create a scene like a painting. On rainy days, there are few people, and being able to walk the town in a moist, calm atmosphere is also a charm.

Access: About 5 minutes by bus, or about 20 minutes on foot, from "Omi-Hachiman Station" on the JR Biwako Line. Renting a bicycle at the station and leisurely riding the old town is especially recommended as a local way to enjoy it, mingling with the locals. Access is comfortable too, about 40 minutes by Special Rapid from Kyoto Station.

Travel Tip: It's often closed on Mondays and the day after holidays, so be sure to check before visiting. The admission fee is reasonable, and using a set ticket that lets you view multiple exhibition halls together is even more of a deal. The interior is quiet and calm, so being able to spend time thoroughly without worrying about crowds is a big charm. Combining viewing the museum, walking the town, and a break at a cafe means a fulfilling time awaits where half a day won't be enough.

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Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park (Exhibition Hall)

It's not just raccoon-dog figurines — you'll surely be surprised by the depth of Shigaraki ware.

Shigaraki in Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, is a pottery village boasting 1,300 years of history as one of the Six Ancient Kilns of Japan. The Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park lets you experience the culmination of its culture and techniques with your whole body. At the exhibition hall within the vast grounds, you can follow the evolution of Shigaraki ware from ancient times to the present in chronological order while fully immersing yourself in the world of formative beauty created by earth and flame. It looks rustic but is actually deep — your view of Shigaraki ware will surely change between before and after visiting.

The greatest joy of a rainy day is the pottery-making experience workshop. The sensation of kneading clay has an indescribable primal comfort, liberated from a digital daily life surrounded by smartphones and computers. The time of shaping your own original work under the guidance of a professional craftsman is a luxurious moment when adults and children alike can become absorbed. The finished work is later fired in the kiln and can be delivered to your home, making it the best travel keepsake too. It's also a place where memories naturally arise — visiting with a partner or friends and laughing together over each other's works.

If you walk around the facility, large pottery works are also dotted here and there outdoors, and the texture of Shigaraki ware wet with rain shows yet another exceptional beauty. The town of Shigaraki is lined with kilns and pottery shops full of individuality, so walking the town along with the exhibition hall gives such fulfillment that a day won't be enough.

Best Season: It's enjoyable year-round, but the time of the "Shigaraki Pottery Festival" held every autumn (mid-October) is especially lively. Artist-made vessels usually out of reach are sometimes lined up at reasonable prices, an irresistible event for vessel lovers. The pottery experience is accepted year-round, but cool, easy-to-concentrate autumn is especially recommended.

Access: About 25 minutes on foot, or about 5 minutes by taxi, from "Shigaraki Station" on the Shigaraki Kohgen Railway. To Shigaraki Station, transfer at "Kibukawa Station" on the JR Kusatsu Line, about 30 minutes. From Kyoto Station, it's about 1 hour 20 minutes including transfers, via Kusatsu Station. It takes a little time, but enjoy that journey of heading over while enjoying the mountain-valley views from the train window as part of the trip.

Travel Tip: Advance reservation is the sure bet for the pottery experience. Especially on rainy weekends, experience hopefuls concentrate all at once, so reservation via the official website or phone is strongly recommended. During the experience, clay can dirty your clothes, so clothing you don't mind getting dirty, or bringing an apron, is great. The mountain valleys of Shigaraki can get cold morning and night even in summer, so tucking an extra layer into your bag gives peace of mind. After the experience, don't forget searching for a souvenir for yourself at the Shigaraki ware shop.

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Access Information

Access to each spot within Shiga Prefecture is very smooth when you make Kyoto Station your starting point. The Special Rapid of the JR Biwako Line (Tokaido Main Line) runs frequently even during the day, and you can access the main stations such as Kusatsu, Omi-Hachiman, and Ishiyama in about 20 to 40 minutes. You can also head over from Osaka Station by the same Special Rapid without transfers, and the sense of distance that lets you casually extend your trip is one of Shiga's charms.

• Lake Biwa Museum: About 30 minutes by bus from the west exit of JR "Kusatsu Station." About 20 minutes by Special Rapid from Kyoto Station to "Kusatsu Station."
• MIHO MUSEUM: About 55 minutes to 1 hour by Teisan Bus from the south exit of JR "Ishiyama Station." About 10 minutes by Special Rapid from Kyoto Station to Ishiyama Station. Since bus service is infrequent, be sure to check the round-trip times in advance.
• Mt. Hiei Enryakuji: About 11 minutes by cable car from Keihan "Sakamoto-Hieizanguchi Station." To "Sakamoto-Hieizanguchi Station," about 10 minutes on foot from JR "Hieizan-Sakamoto Station," or use the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line. From the Kyoto side, access by cable car and ropeway from "Yase-Hieizanguchi Station" on the Eizan Railway is also possible.
• Omi-Hachiman City Museum: About 5 minutes by bus, or about 20 minutes on foot, from JR "Omi-Hachiman Station." About 40 minutes by Special Rapid from Kyoto Station.
• Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park: About 25 minutes on foot, or about 5 minutes by taxi, from "Shigaraki Station" on the Shigaraki Kohgen Railway. About 1 hour 20 minutes from Kyoto Station including transfers.

Since each spot has its own travel distance, a plan of thoroughly enjoying one or two spots per day makes for a tireless and fulfilling trip. Check public-transportation times firmly in advance, and since bus routes in particular may have limited service, be mindful of a schedule with time to spare.