Aizuwakamatsu Tsurugajo and Byakkotai Course

The memory of the Boshin War still lingers in Aizuwakamatsu. Starting from Tsurugajo, whose red-tiled keep rises above the town, this one-day course follows the life of the samurai and the story of the young Byakkotai warriors.

Course Route

9:00 Start at Tsurugajo Castle This is the only castle keep in Japan crowned with red tiles, striking against the blue sky. In the spring of 2011 the roof was restored from black tiles back to the red tiles it wore before the keep was dismantled in the Meiji era. Look over the old town from the top observation floor and learn Aizu history at the local museum inside. The keep is open from 8:30 to 17:00, with entry accepted until 16:30, and the early morning hours are relatively quiet. A combined ticket also covers the tea house Rinkaku, linked to the great tea master Sen no Rikyu, so if time allows, walk on to the tea house in the garden.

11:00 Aizu Samurai Residence Tour the reconstructed mansion of chief retainer Saigo Tanomo, where daily samurai life is recreated down to fine detail. From Tsurugajo you can reach the residence on the Akabe loop bus, and allowing about an hour lets you take in the buildings without rushing.

13:00 Lunch and a stroll on Nanukamachi Street Enjoy Aizu soba or local dishes along a street lined with retro Western buildings and old storehouses. The street also has cafes and shops selling local sake and Aizu lacquerware, making it pleasant for an after-lunch walk.

15:00 Iimoriyama and the Byakkotai Stand where the boy soldiers ended their lives, and see the strange double-spiral structure of the Sazaedo hall, designated an Important Cultural Property. From the Iimoriyama-shita bus stop a climb of stone steps leads to the graves, but a paid moving slope conveyor is also available, so you can choose according to your energy.

Highlights

The red-tiled keep of Tsurugajo, the vast samurai residence, and the view over the Aizu basin from Iimoriyama stay in the memory. The double-spiral of Sazaedo, where those going up and those coming down never meet, is a rare survival that still conveys the building skill of the Edo period.

Practical Travel Notes

Time needed Seeing Tsurugajo, the samurai residence, Nanukamachi, and Iimoriyama together makes a full day from morning to late afternoon. Allow roughly 30 minutes to an hour at each spot.

Getting around The base is JR Aizuwakamatsu Station. The main sights are covered by the loop buses Haikara-san, which runs counterclockwise, and Akabe, which runs clockwise, tying together Tsurugajo, the samurai residence, and Iimoriyama. A single ride is 250 yen for adults, but if you hop on and off often, the one-day pass at 700 yen for adults is by far better value. The pass is sold at the tourist information office in front of the station and other outlets. By car, Tsurugajo has a paid parking lot.

Avoiding crowds The Tsurugajo keep is quiet right after opening in the morning, and in cherry blossom and autumn seasons an early start is especially recommended. Iimoriyama tends to fill with tour groups during the day, so morning or late afternoon allows a calmer visit.

Budget sense With admission fees, the loop bus day pass, and lunch, one adult can enjoy the day for a few thousand yen.

A Quick Tip

Iimoriyama has many stone steps, so wear comfortable shoes. In cherry blossom and autumn seasons Tsurugajo is especially beautiful.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Admission to the Tsurugajo Castle keep: 410 yen for adults and 150 yen for children. A combination ticket with the Rinkaku tea house costs 520 yen for adults and 150 yen for children. There are no closing days
• Parking at Tsurugajo Castle: the Nishidemaru car park (200 spaces for ordinary cars), the East Entrance car park (129 spaces) and the South Entrance car park (35 spaces). The charge is 200 yen for the first hour and 100 yen for each hour thereafter
• Aizu Samurai Residence: admission is 1,000 yen for general visitors, 600 yen for junior and senior high school students and 500 yen for elementary school students. It is open 8:30-17:00 from April to November and 9:00-16:30 from December to March. Parking is free, with room for 100 cars and 20 buses
• Sazaedo (Entsu Sansodo): admission is 400 yen for adults, 300 yen for high school students and 200 yen for elementary and junior high school students. Visiting hours are 8:15 to sunset from April to November and 9:00-16:00 from December to March, and it is open all year round
• The slope conveyor (moving walkway) at Mount Iimoriyama: 250 yen for adults and 150 yen for children. It runs 8:00-17:00 from March 21 to November 20 and 9:00-16:00 from November 21 to March 20
• Enquiries: 0242-27-4005 (Tsurugajo Castle) / 0242-28-2525 (Aizu Samurai Residence) / 0242-22-3163 (Sazaedo) / 0242-22-9586 (Mount Iimoriyama slope conveyor)
• Official information: the official Tsurugajo Castle website (Aizu Wakamatsu Tourism Bureau) / the official Aizu Samurai Residence website / Aizu-Wakamatsu Tourism Navi

* The above is a guide based on information published by each facility and local government. Hours and fees may change, so please check the official information before you set out.