Gunma Winter Travel: Kusatsu, Ikaho & Minakami Onsen

The Charm of Winter in Gunma

The steam of hot springs rising amid silver-white mountain ranges, the warm lights glowing along cobblestone slopes, and adventure experiences in powder-snow-dusted gorges—winter in Gunma is not merely a "cold season." It is precisely because of the cold that the hot spring water seeps into the very core of your body, and that the steam from a hotpot dish strikes the heart so deeply.

Access from the Kanto region is also good, with some areas reachable in as little as just over an hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen. As a stage for a luxurious winter trip you can set off on at a whim on a weekend, Gunma is an unbeatable choice. Snowscapes, hot springs, gourmet food, the outdoors—the depth of Gunma's winter is that it shows you completely different faces depending on what you seek. Whether you want to entrust your body to silky hot spring water in a historic hot spring town, or to move your body to the fullest in the snowy mountains, by the time you finish reading this article you will surely have begun planning your trip.

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Kusatsu Onsen

It is no exaggeration to say that Kusatsu Onsen, counted as one of "Japan's three most famous hot springs," shines truest in winter. The white steam rising ceaselessly from the source spreads all the more fantastically in the crisply cold air, making the entire hot spring town feel as if it were breathing, alive. It is strange how, even on a freezing night below minus 10°C, once you come to Kusatsu you even find yourself thinking, "I was looking forward to the cold."

The symbol of Kusatsu Onsen, the "Yubatake" (hot water field), is illuminated in winter, showing an entirely different expression from the daytime. From dusk into the night, the sight of steam drifting fantastically, lit by orange light, is a beauty you'll never forget once seen. Locals unanimously say "the Yubatake at night is the one thing you absolutely must see," so we recommend heading to the Yubatake first thing after checking in on the first day of your trip. The best time is after sunset, around 5 to 7 p.m. With a warm drink in hand, take your time gazing at the scene woven by steam and light. Furthermore, after 8 p.m., when the crowds settle down, is a hidden time slot known only to those in the know, when you can have the Yubatake almost all to yourself in silence. In the cold night air, the fantastical sight of only the white steam quietly swaying is a special experience you can taste only at this hour.

The spring's water quality is strongly acidic, with high sterilizing power, and it has been beloved since ancient times as "the water that heals wounds." On a circuit of the outdoor baths, free public baths such as "Shirahata-no-yu" and "Chiyo-no-yu" are dotted about, and the experience of quietly soaking in the water mingled with the local regulars will be deeply etched into your travel memories. While watching locals relax on the verandas after their baths, you will keenly feel that for the people who live here, the hot springs are simply "everyday life." Since "Netsu-no-yu," where the yumomi show is held, gets especially crowded in winter, we recommend lining up 30 minutes before the start. The traditional technique of stirring the water with boards, and the rhythmic movements set to song, will teach you anew the depth of hot spring culture.

Insider info: "Sai-no-Kawara Open-Air Bath," a little away from the bustle of the hot spring town, is a rustic, spectacular spot spread across a vast rocky area. On snowy days, you can enjoy a "snow-viewing bath," soaking while watching the white snow dance quietly. It is no exaggeration to say it's worth visiting Kusatsu just to taste this feeling—as if the bustle of the city and the fatigue of daily life all melt softly away with the snow. Right after opening at 9 a.m. is when it's emptiest, and you can savor the contrast between the fresh morning air and the warmth of the water.

Gourmet info: The hot spring manju and the local specialty "onsen pudding" around the Yubatake are perfect both as a companion to your stroll and as souvenirs. The sweetness of a freshly made hot spring manju, eaten amid the scent of sulfur, is an exceptional bite you can taste only here. Some inns serve "kiritanpo hotpot" only in winter, so if you're considering staying, by all means inquire in advance.

Access

By train + bus: From JR Hokuriku Shinkansen "Karuizawa Station" or Joetsu Shinkansen "Takasaki Station," transfer to the JR Agatsuma Line to "Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station." From there, take the JR Bus Kanto "bound for Kusatsu Onsen" for about 25 minutes. The total travel time from Takasaki Station is about 2 hours as a guide. From Tokyo Station, allow about 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours including transfers.

By highway bus: A direct service runs from Shinjuku Busta to the Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal, taking about 4 hours. The appeal is being able to travel comfortably without transfers, and the journey watching the changing mountain scenery from the window can be enjoyed as part of the trip. Reserve your seat early—especially during the New Year holidays and on weekends, it is not unusual for it to be fully booked, so securing a seat 1 to 2 weeks in advance is reassuring.

By car: About 1 hour 30 minutes from the Kanetsu Expressway "Shibukawa-Ikaho IC" via National Routes 353 and 145. The appeal of a car trip is the sense of distance that makes it an easy getaway from the metropolitan area, but in winter, studless tires or chains are essential. Icing on mountain roads is more slippery than you'd expect, and driving on normal tires is dangerous. Be sure to check your equipment before departure.

💡 Tips for travelers

- Inns and buses tend to fill up early during the New Year holidays and the long weekends in January and February. If possible, weekday use is by far recommended

- Temperatures can drop below minus 10°C on some days. Heat-retaining inner wear such as Heattech, a down jacket, a muffler, gloves, and non-slip waterproof boots are essential. Especially for your feet, you can easily slip and fall on frozen cobblestones, so wear shoes with solid grip

- With a bath-hopping pass (1,200 yen), you can enjoy the hot springs of three member inns on a day-trip basis at a good value. Available at the town's information center or inn front desks

- Since the hot spring components are strong, long soaks are forbidden. First-timers should aim for 10 to 15 minutes. Don't forget to rehydrate after your bath

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Ikaho Onsen

Ikaho Onsen, with 365 stone steps running through the center of the hot spring town, is a famous winter spot with a one-of-a-kind atmosphere where "Showa retro" and "Taisho romance" blend together. The sight of inns, souvenir shops, and shooting galleries lining both sides of the stone steps evokes a nostalgia as if you had slipped back in time, and just walking it makes your heart unwind. There is a sentiment here that naturally makes you remember a precious someone, thinking "I wish I could have brought them here someday."

Especially popular in winter Ikaho is the "illumination of the stone step street." Each year from late November to around February, the steps are decorated with colorful lights, transforming into a fantastical evening walking path full of hot spring sentiment. On days when snow has piled up, the contrast between the silver-white and the lights is so breathtakingly beautiful that travelers with cameras almost invariably stop in their tracks—a spectacular point. The tunnel of light seen looking up from the bottom of the steps has a sense of the extraordinary, as if you had wandered into a fairy tale. The best time is around 5 to 8 p.m. From early evening onward, when there are fewer people on the steps, it also becomes easier to take fantastical photos making use of the reflected light.

Ikaho Onsen has two types of spring quality: the "brownish water (Golden Water)" and the "colorless, transparent water (Silver Water)." The Golden Water, rich in iron and calcium, has a silky touch on the skin and warms a thoroughly chilled body from the core. Even after getting out of the bath, your body stays toasty warm, so much so that you mysteriously hardly feel the cold even on a midwinter night road. "Ishidan-no-yu," located in the middle of the stone step street, is a public bath offering day-use bathing, used by many locals too—a place where you can experience genuine therapeutic-bath culture. The experience of slowly warming your body in an unpretentious bathtub has a plain richness you can't get at a luxury inn.

Insider info: Beside the approach to "Ikaho Shrine" at the top of the stone steps, there is a footbath spot tucked away quietly. Compared to the tourist-heavy area at the bottom of the steps, it is a hidden gem where you can sit leisurely and enjoy the scenery. In the clear winter air, spending time soaking just your feet while gazing at the mountain scenery is a luxury beyond anything else. Dropping by on a winter visit that doubles as a New Year's shrine visit is the local way to enjoy it. If you call out to a local, "I climbed all the way up to the shrine," you'll surely get a warm reply.

Gourmet info: Ikaho's specialty "Mizusawa udon" shows its true value precisely in winter. The happiness of the moment when the clear, chewy noodles tangle with the piping-hot broth is exceptional. The Mizusawa area, about a 10-minute drive from the stone step street, has long-established udon shops lined up, and lines can form at lunchtime. Arriving early before 11 a.m. is smoother. Just gazing at the warm steam rising from the bowl carried to you after ordering, you feel the strength gently drain out from deep inside.

Access

By train + bus: From JR Joetsu Shinkansen / Takasaki Line "Takasaki Station," take the Kan-etsu Kotsu bus "bound for Ikaho Onsen" for about 1 hour. From Tokyo or Shinjuku, allow about 50 minutes to Takasaki Station by Shinkansen as a guide. Transfers are smooth too, and it is a manageable distance even for a day trip from the city center.

By car: Just off the Kanetsu Expressway "Shibukawa-Ikaho IC," about 10 to 15 minutes. About 2 hours from the metropolitan area. The ease of access is the best among Gunma's hot spring towns. For parking, use the town-run or private parking lots at the bottom of the steps (in winter, beware of road icing; arriving early to secure a parking space is reassuring).

💡 Tips for travelers

- The 365 stone steps are steeper than you'd expect, and can freeze in winter. Avoid heeled shoes, and tackle them in non-slip shoes with good grip. To prevent falls, actively use the handrails

- Walking from the bottom of the steps to the front of the shrine takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Taking photos along the way takes more time than you'd think, so plan with plenty of leeway

- Weekend daytimes bustle with tourists, but after 5 p.m., the steps grow much quieter, the lights come on, and the walk is exceptional. If you want to avoid the crowds, aim for this time slot

- Many inns' day-use bathing plans are by reservation, so we strongly recommend booking in advance from the official website. Walk-ins on the day may be turned away

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Minakami

Minakami Town, spreading across northern Gunma at the border with Niigata, is the holy ground of adventure where you can enjoy the most "active travel" of winter Gunma. The rich nature spread across the upper Tone River basin transforms in winter into a vast snowfield, becoming the stage for a wide variety of activities such as snow rafting, snowshoe hiking, and skiing and snowboarding. "Relaxing in the hot springs" is also wonderful, but for those who want to "move their body to the fullest in the snow," Minakami is without doubt the best in Gunma—no, one of the finest winter travel spots even in the vicinity of Kanto. The flow of warming your body in a local hot spring after finishing an activity seeps into body and mind like a reward for the trip.

What deserves special attention in Minakami is "snow rafting." The experience of climbing into a rubber boat and sliding boldly down snow-covered hills as if going down a river is a thrill and exhilaration that keeps both children and adults cheering nonstop. Several outdoor companies in Minakami Town run tours, so even beginners can participate with peace of mind. It's strange how the very people who thought "that looks scary" end up shouting "one more time!" when it's over.

For those who want to immerse themselves in the silence of the snowy mountains, "snowshoe hiking" is recommended. Wearing special shoes, you slowly walk through the snowy forest together with a guide. Following the small footprints of wild animals, or watching the moment when snow piled on the trees softly falls—there is an emotion here that sharpens all five senses, something you absolutely can't taste in everyday city life. "Tambara Lavender Park," spreading at the foot of Mount Tanigawa, also operates as a ski resort in winter, with slopes suited to beginners, making it the perfect place to make your skiing debut too.

Insider info: "Suwakyo," on the outskirts of the Minakami hot spring district, is a hidden spot where you can enjoy the powerful gorge beauty carved out by the Tone River. Known in summer as a famous rafting spot, in winter tourists drop off sharply, and you can quietly have the contrast of snow-covered rock faces and clear stream all to yourself. Just walking the trail for about 30 minutes, a spectacular view spreads out as if you'd wandered into another world. When staying at a hot spring inn, try asking the local staff, "How about a morning walk in Suwakyo?" They'll often be glad to guide you, and sometimes you can learn local highlights not found in guidebooks.

Gourmet info: Minakami Town's specialty "motsuni" (offal stew) is the best reward after moving your body in the snow. The richly miso-based soup seeps to the core of your body, and strength surges back into your tired body surprisingly quickly. You can casually eat it at the town's eateries and drive-ins, and the simple flavor made by local aunties gently soothes the fatigue of the trip. It has the kind of deep, nourishing flavor that makes you blurt out, "This kind of dish is the tastiest."

Access

By train: From JR Joetsu Shinkansen "Jomokogen Station," about 20 to 30 minutes by taxi or bus. From Tokyo / Ueno Station, using the "Toki" or "Tanigawa" trains, it is about 75 minutes to Jomokogen Station—good access. Alternatively, there is the method of using JR Joetsu Line "Minakami Station," about 1 hour 20 minutes with a transfer from Takasaki Station. From Minakami Station, hot spring inns often run shuttle buses, so check with your accommodation in advance.

By car: About 10 to 15 minutes from the Kanetsu Expressway "Minakami IC" via National Route 291. About 2 hours 30 minutes from Tokyo. While you can enjoy a spectacular drive unique to mountainous areas, in winter, snow and ice are frequent, so studless tires are essential. We also strongly recommend carrying chains. Get into the habit of checking road surface information for the national route before departure for peace of mind.

💡 Tips for travelers

- Activities are basically by advance reservation. Especially during the New Year holidays and the February long weekend, they fill up early, so booking 1 to 2 months in advance is reassuring. Popular tours can start filling up around October

- For snow rafting and snowshoeing, special equipment rental is available. You can participate if you have easy-to-move-in waterproof, warm outerwear and gloves. Goggles and a hat will greatly increase your comfort

- Minakami Onsen also has well-equipped day-use bathing facilities. A hot spring after an activity is bliss in a word. The moment the hot spring wraps your body, chilled by sweat and snow, brings a happiness words can't express

- Being in a mountainous area, the weather can change suddenly from the afternoon. Be sure to check the latest weather information before departure, and the iron rule of winter outdoor activities is to enjoy them on a comfortable schedule without overexerting

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Points for Your Winter Trip

The fantastical nighttime hot spring steam of Kusatsu Onsen, the illuminations glowing on Ikaho's stone steps, the adventures in Minakami's snowfields—winter in Gunma overflows with experiences where each and every scene remains long in your heart as a travel memory. Step a little away from daily life and a winter trip in Gunma, wrapped in silver-white mountains and hot spring steam. There is surely a place here that will make you want to come again.

To enjoy your winter trip to the fullest, here are the key points summarized at the end.

• Be fully prepared against the cold: With its inland climate, Gunma's temperatures drop more easily than coastal areas, and in mountainous areas there are days when it stays below zero even during the day. Prepare heat-retaining inner wear such as Heattech, a down jacket, and waterproof boots as your basic set. Tucking in a few hand warmers will be a great help when needed
• Allow plenty of time for travel: Winter mountain roads are prone to traffic jams from snow and ice, and can take more than double the usual time. Building a buffer into your schedule and moving calmly and safely is the basic premise of a winter trip
• Book inns and activities early: Popular inns and experience tours fill up early, mainly on weekends and long weekends. To avoid the regret of "when I thought of going, it was fully booked," reserve as soon as your plans are set
• Try talking to locals: Just by calling out "Do you have any recommendations?" to inn staff, eatery owners, or hot spring regulars, you may turn up hidden gems not found in guidebooks. The warmth of Gunma's people is another charm of this trip