Shonai Cherry Picking and the Journey to Tsuruoka and Mt. Haguro

Yamagata Prefecture is Japan's leading producer of cherries, accounting for about 70% of the national harvest of outo (sweet cherries) according to Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries statistics. When June comes, varieties led by "Sato Nishiki" turn deep red, and cherry-picking experiences can be enjoyed at orchards across the prefecture. Among them, the Shonai region is an appealing area where you can enjoy early-summer fruit picking and historic sightseeing at once. From Tsuruoka City, which retains the atmosphere of a castle town, to Mt. Haguro, the sacred ground of the Dewa Sanzan faith, a rich journey woven from flavor, history and nature awaits.

Cherry Picking, the Flavor of Early Summer

Cherry picking in Yamagata is hugely popular as an early summer tradition. Sato Nishiki, also called the "red jewel," is known for its refined sweetness, well-judged acidity and juicy flesh, and the luxury of carrying a just-picked cherry to your mouth is something only an orchard can offer. Many orchards offer timed all-you-can-eat picking, letting you savor to your heart's content the cherries that have ripened fully in abundant sunlight. Many orchards also have rain-shelter facilities, and this is one of Yamagata's signature sightseeing experiences, drawing families and couples in search of the flavors of early summer.

Highlights

Yamagata Prefecture produces the most cherry fruit of any prefecture in Japan, and the Shonai area is home to some of the finest orchards. Farm-direct cherry picking (sakuranbo-gari) is available at numerous orchards near Tsuruoka city — rows of trees heavy with bright red Sato Nishiki and other varieties, picked warm from the tree on summer mornings.

Tsuruoka city itself contains excellent cultural resources: the Chido Museum (local history in an Edo-era warehouse complex) and some of Japan's finest traditional cuisine (Tsuruoka is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy).

The Story Behind the Birth of "Sato Nishiki"

The man who produced "Sato Nishiki," the cherry that represents Yamagata, was Sato Eisuke of Higashine City. He focused on "Napoleon," which was often used for canning, and "Kidama," which bruised easily but tasted good, and repeatedly crossed them; the first fruit was borne in 1922 (Taisho 11), ten years after he began his crossbreeding. Then in 1928 (Showa 3), his close friend, the nursery dealer Okada Tosaku, named it "Sato Nishiki" and sent it out into the world. Its beautiful appearance, crimson blushing over a yellow ground, and its exquisite balance of sweetness and acidity — the flavor now called the "red jewel" was born from the persistent challenge taken up by a single grower.

The Cherry Season Shifts with the Variety

The timing for cherry picking shifts a little from variety to variety. From early to mid-June comes "Benisayaka," sweet-tart and red right through to the flesh. From mid to late June, "Sato Nishiki," the most widely grown variety in the prefecture, reaches its eating peak. Then from late June to early July it is the season for "Benishuho," registered as a variety in 1991 (Heisei 3) from a cross between Sato Nishiki and Tenkonishiki. Its strengths are large fruit, strong sweetness and a fine texture of flesh, and its popularity has been rising because it arrives in time for the midsummer gift-giving season. In recent years the large-fruited variety "Yamagata Benio," bred by Yamagata Prefecture, has joined the lineup as well, widening the pleasures of the season still further. If you choose the variety to match the timing of your visit, you are more likely to meet the flavor you are after.

How to Enjoy an Orchard, and Tips for Photographs

At an orchard, coloring generally advances first on the sunlit outer branches and toward the top of the tree, so deeply colored fruit is a good guide. A stem that is green and firm is proof of freshness. Take hold of the stem and pluck the fruit gently, taking care not to damage the branches or leaves. For photographs, placing red fruit against a background of green leaves makes the color contrast work well. Shooting slightly against the light makes the fruit glow like a jewel as the light passes through it, and inside a rain-shelter house the light is diffused for a softer image. Within the orchard, take care not to block the paths, and always follow each orchard's own rules, including whether taking fruit home is permitted.

A Day in Shonai Combining Mt. Haguro

After fruit picking, extending your trip to Mt. Haguro of the Dewa Sanzan is a very Shonai way to spend the day. From the Zuishinmon gate to the Sanjin Gosaiden hall at the summit is about 1.7 kilometers of 2,446 stone steps, and the approach, wrapped in an avenue of cedars more than 350 to 500 years old, has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japon. The moment when the National Treasure five-storied pagoda appears among the cedars is when the fresh green of early summer feels deepest of all, and it is wrapped in a stillness that contrasts with the bustle of the orchards. Back in central Tsuruoka, the Tsuruoka City Kamo Aquarium, known for its jellyfish displays, is close by, so you can build a single day that runs from sweet flavors to sacred ground to the seashore.

Mt. Haguro, Sacred Ground of the Dewa Sanzan

Mt. Haguro, together with Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono, is called the "Dewa Sanzan," a sacred site of mountain worship. Along the approach leading to the summit, amid an avenue of cedars several hundred years old, rises the solemn "five-storied pagoda" designated a National Treasure, and its beautiful form overwhelms those who see it. Climbing the 2,446 stone steps one by one, advancing along the approach through the sacred cedar grove, is truly a pilgrimage experience that cleanses the heart. It is a sacred place unique to the land of Dewa, where history and nature are one.

Best Season and Access

The height of the cherry-picking season is usually June, and this is the best time if you want to enjoy the flavors of early summer. Mt. Haguro is especially beautiful in the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn foliage, and can be visited for worship year-round. For access, JR "Tsuruoka Station," the gateway to the Shonai region, is the base. From the bus stop in front of Tsuruoka Station, take the bus bound for "Haguro Summit / Gassan 8th Station" for about 35 minutes and get off at "Zuishinmon," which is the entrance to the stone-step approach. Using Shonai Airport also makes access from the Tokyo metropolitan area convenient. A journey combining sweet early-summer cherries with the solemn sacred ground of the Dewa Sanzan should be a full and rewarding way to savor the appeal of Yamagata.

Practical Information

• Peak season / best time: The height of the cherry-picking season is usually June, when "Sato Nishiki" and other varieties take on color. According to Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries statistics, Yamagata Prefecture accounts for about 70% of the national outo harvest, making it Japan's leading producer. Mt. Haguro can be visited for worship year-round, and the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn foliage are especially beautiful.
• Access: The gateway to the Shonai region is JR "Tsuruoka Station." For Mt. Haguro, take the bus bound for "Haguro Summit / Gassan 8th Station" from the bus stop in front of Tsuruoka Station for about 35 minutes; the entrance to the stone-step approach is right at the "Zuishinmon" stop. You can also reach the summit by route bus or private car via the toll road.
• Clothing and equipment: From Zuishinmon to the Sanjin Gosaiden hall at the summit, 2,446 stone steps continue for about 1.7 km, starting with the descent of Mamako-zaka and then climbing steadily. Please prepare non-slip shoes you are used to walking in, rain gear and something to drink. The stone steps become slippery with rain and fallen leaves, and there is snow and ice in winter.

*The approach to Mt. Haguro is surrounded by an avenue of cedars more than 350 to 500 years old and has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japon. Repair work on the shingled roof of the National Treasure Haguro-san Five-Storied Pagoda was carried out from 2023 to 2024. Whether special viewing is available and the state of public access change with the season, so please check announcements from Dewa Sanzan Shrine and the Hagurocho Tourist Association.*

*Fees, time limits and whether reservations are required for cherry picking differ by orchard, and opening dates shift earlier or later with growing conditions. Please check the latest information with each orchard or on the official tourism websites of Tsuruoka City and Yamagata Prefecture before visiting.*

(Sources: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Crop Statistics "Outo" https://www.maff.go.jp/j/tokei/kouhyou/sakumotu/sakkyou_kazyu/ ; Yamagata Prefecture "Cherries" https://www.pref.yamagata.jp/sangyo/nourinsuisangyou/nogyo/nousambutsu/sakurambo/index.html ; Tsuruoka City Tourism Federation "Tsuruoka Kanko Navi | Haguro-san Five-Storied Pagoda (National Treasure)" https://www.tsuruokakanko.com/spot/256 ; Hagurocho Tourist Association https://hagurokanko.jp/ )