Shima Onsen: The Mysterious Hot Spring Said to Inspire Spirited Away

Retro hot-spring inns beside clear streams, abundant water welling up endlessly, and a stillness cradled by deep mountains - Shima Onsen in Nakanojo Town, Gunma, is a historic famous spring said to "cure forty thousand ailments." Nostalgic buildings that recall the world of a film and a lake glowing emerald green dot the area with unforgettable scenery. Leave the bustle behind, soak slowly in the famous waters, and set out on a tranquil hot-spring journey to heal body and mind.

The Famous Spring That Cures "40,000 Ailments"

Shima Onsen is a hot spring welling up deep in the mountains of Nakanojo Town, Gunma, along the clear Shima River. Its name derives from a legend of a "sacred spring that cures forty thousand (shima) ailments," and it has long been known as a fine spring effective for stomach and intestinal complaints. The water is abundant and of high quality with a smooth feel. In 1954 it was designated as one of the first National Health Resort hot springs, alongside places such as Nikko Yumoto, making it a venerable spa. Cradled by rich nature, it is a healing retreat where you can relax as if on a therapeutic cure. Note: the benefits listed here are indications commonly cited for the spring and are not medically established treatment effects.

Retro Hot-Spring Atmosphere

Shima Onsen's charm lies in its nostalgic, retro atmosphere. Among the inns dotting the Shima River are long-established houses of great history and wooden buildings retaining the mood of the Taisho and Showa eras. The dignified presence of the historic inns in particular gives off a nostalgic air, as if you have wandered into the world of a story, drawing many visitors. Strolling the hot-spring town lined with shooting galleries and retro shops is fun, with a somehow nostalgic, soothing time flowing by.

The Emerald Okushima Lake

Another highlight of Shima Onsen is "Okushima Lake" at the far end of the hot-spring town. Created by the Shima River Dam, this lake holds mysterious emerald-green water dubbed "Shima Blue," and its beauty is breathtaking. The shade of blue shifts with the season, weather, and light, captivating visitors. A promenade is laid out along the shore, and the clear air and spectacular view cleanse the heart. It is a scenic spot well worth adding to your hot-spring trip.

Seasonal Fun

It can be enjoyed year-round, but the fresh-green season, when Shima Blue shines especially bright, and autumn foliage that colors the ravine are particularly beautiful, and a quiet snow-viewing bath is exceptional too. The blue of Okushima Lake is said to grow more vivid in early spring when snowmelt flows in, changing its expression by season. Combine strolling with bath-hopping to fully savor Shima's nature.

Access and Essentials

By public transport, "Nakanojo Station" on the JR Agatsuma Line is the gateway, and you take a local bus from the station to the hot-spring town. From the Tokyo area you can reach Nakanojo Station by limited express. By car, aim for the mountain-nestled town from points such as the "Shibukawa-Ikaho IC" on the Kan-Etsu Expressway. Okushima Lake is a few minutes by car from the town, but as buses are infrequent, a car or taxi is convenient if you want to venture to the lake.

Practical Travel Notes

• Some inns and public baths in Shima accept day-use bathing, but reception hours may be limited. Confirm in advance to be safe.
• Okushima Lake is some distance on foot from the hot-spring town. If the lake view is your aim, using a car or taxi is recommended.
• Being in the mountains, mornings and evenings turn cold, and winter roads can freeze. If driving in winter, prepare winter tires and the like.
• The town's charm is its retro streetscape. Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to stroll.

A Word of Advice

Shima Onsen is a spa for adults who want to relax, combining fine waters, a retro streetscape, and the spectacular "Shima Blue." Rather than a hurried tour, staying overnight at a retro inn and leisurely walking the town, whose face changes between night and morning, is recommended. It is perfect for a journey that leaves the bustle behind and thoroughly heals body and mind.

📚 Sources

The content here is organized from official tourism information by the Shima Onsen Association and Nakanojo Town, public information on the public baths and day-use facilities, and on-site guidance. The reception hours for day bathing, access to Lake Okushima, and winter road conditions may change. Because fees, hours, and access can change, please confirm with official sources before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Time needed: A half day for a town stroll and a bath, or a half day to a full day if you go as far as Lake Okushima.
• What to bring: The retro townscape is the charm, so wear comfortable shoes for strolling. It cools down morning and evening in the mountains, so watch for winter road ice and prepare winter tires if driving.
• Suggested route: Stroll the retro hot-spring town, enjoy a public bath or inn bath, then take in the views of Lake Okushima.
• Bathing note: Some inns and public baths accept day bathing, but reception hours may be limited, so confirm in advance.
• Access note: Lake Okushima is far to walk from the town, so using a car or taxi is recommended.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Access by public transport: From Nakanojo Station on the JR Agatsuma Line, take the Kan-etsu Kotsu bus bound for Shima Onsen to the last stop, Shima Onsen. The fare is 1,150 yen for adults (revised on October 1, 2025). Gunma Prefecture's information gives the journey from Nakanojo Station to the Shima Onsen bus stop as about 40 minutes, or about 25 minutes by taxi.
• Bus operating hours (weekdays / timetable revised April 1, 2026): From Nakanojo Station the first bus is at 6:05 and the last at 19:10; from Shima Onsen the first is at 6:50 and the last at 19:50.
• Day-use bathing at Sekizenkan: Reception 10:00-17:30 (last bathing reception 17:00), the same on weekdays, weekends and public holidays. 1,500 yen for adults (tax included, with a face towel and toothbrush) and 1,100 yen for children (ages 3-12, with a face towel), free of charge for children aged 2 and under. Bath towel rental costs 550 yen. Day visitors are officially asked to refrain from entering the accommodation wings.
• The connection with Spirited Away: According to Sekizenkan's official website, in the program broadcast by Nippon TV on July 25, 2008 under the title Studio Ghibli Layout Exhibition Special: a 130-minute exclusive interview with Director Miyazaki, the exciting secrets of Miyazaki anime, Shima Onsen Sekizenkan was introduced as one of the image models for the bathhouse Aburaya (the others mentioned were Dogo Onsen Honkan and Meguro Gajoen).
• Public bathhouses: Kawara no Yu (4228-2 Shima, Nakanojo-machi) and Ue no Yu are both open from 9:00 to 15:00 with no regular closing day (Shima Onsen Association). Kawara no Yu stands at the confluence of the Shima River and the Shinyu River, and its exterior, inner walls and tubs are all built of stone. Ue no Yu has two tubs in each of the men's and women's baths, with spring water flowing continuously through them.
• Town-run Shima Seiryu no Yu (currently on shortened hours): After closing for repair work on the women's bath the facility has reopened, but for the time being it operates on shortened hours of 10:00-17:00 (last entry 16:30) rather than the usual 10:00-20:00. It is closed on the 4th Wednesday. The charge for 2 hours is 600 yen for adults, 400 yen for children and 400 yen for visitors with disabilities, and extra time on weekdays costs 300 yen per hour for adults and 200 yen for children, while a book of 10 tickets costs 4,000 yen. During the Obon period (August 9-16) stays are limited to 2 hours. The facility may also close temporarily because of equipment problems, so check the information from the Shima Onsen Association before you visit.
• Lake Oku-Shima and the Shimagawa Dam: From the Shima Onsen bus stop the dam is about a 40-minute walk or about 7 minutes by taxi (Gunma Prefecture). For enquiries, contact the Shimagawa Dam Management Office on 0279-70-4021 or the Nakanojo Civil Engineering Office on 0279-75-3047.
• Spring quality: A chloride-sulfate spring, with source temperatures of 40 to 80 degrees. Nakanojo Town states that it is highly effective for rheumatism, neuralgia and skin conditions as well as for gastrointestinal complaints, and that it is also suitable for drinking. In 1954 (Showa 29) it was designated the first National Health Resort Hot Spring in Japan.

Note: For the bathing charges at the public bathhouses (Kawara no Yu and Ue no Yu), and for the viewing hours at the Shimagawa Dam and Lake Oku-Shima and the conditions for obtaining a dam card, please check the official information of the Shima Onsen Association and Nakanojo Town before you set out. (Sources: Kan-etsu Kotsu, Shima Onsen Line fare table and timetable; Gunma Prefecture Nakanojo Civil Engineering Office, Access to the Shimagawa Dam; official Nakanojo Town website, Shima Onsen page; official website of the Shima Onsen Association; official Sekizenkan website)