The Steam of Kusatsu — Savoring the Yubatake Illumination and the Yumomi Show

Kusatsu Onsen is one of Japan's three most celebrated hot springs. Its emblem is the Yubatake at the center of the spa town, forever sending up plumes of steam. By day, the sulfur-scented steam and the mineral flowers of the water; by night, an enchanting scene lit by illumination; and the famous "yumomi," in which scalding source water is cooled to the accompaniment of song. This is the spot to savor to the fullest the steam-filled atmosphere and living tradition unique to Kusatsu.

Highlights

The Yubatake, the symbol of Kusatsu, is where thousands of liters of abundant source water gush forth each minute. As it flows through wooden channels, the mineral "yu-no-hana" is harvested, and the rising steam and scent of sulfur fill the air of the spa town. After sunset the Yubatake is illuminated, and the steam glows in the light for an enchanting mood. The stone railings around the Yubatake are inscribed with the names of notable figures who have visited Kusatsu, and hunting for them is one of the pleasures of a stroll. The Yubatake at night shows a face entirely different from its daytime look and is a popular spot for photography.

Enjoying the Seasons

Delightful year-round, autumn into winter, when the steam stands out white, is especially atmospheric. In the cold seasons the steam rises all the thicker, spreading an enchanting scene. At Netsu-no-Yu, the traditional "yumomi" of cooling Kusatsu's high-temperature source water by stirring it with long boards is performed as a "yumomi show" to the tune of the Kusatsu-bushi song several times a day. On some rounds visitors can try yumomi themselves, bringing this uniquely Kusatsu culture within reach. The pairing of winter snow and steam is a spectacle you can experience only in Kusatsu.

Access & Basic Information

• Location: Kusatsu Town, Agatsuma District, Gunma Prefecture (around the Yubatake and Netsu-no-Yu)
• By train: About 25 minutes by bus from Nagano-hara-Kusatsu-guchi Station
• By car: About 60 minutes from the Shibukawa-Ikaho IC on the Kan-Etsu Expressway
• Yumomi show: Performed several times a day at Netsu-no-Yu (fee required; confirm times and price locally)
• Strolling: The spa town can be explored on foot; leaving the car at the inn and walking is recommended

Practical Travel Notes

The area around the Yubatake has much cobblestone and sloping ground, and at night the surface can be damp with steam, so non-slip, comfortable walking shoes are reassuring. In winter the ground can freeze, so prepare your footwear along with warm clothing. The yumomi show's number of performances, times, and price can vary by season, so confirming the latest information locally before visiting makes things smoother. The Yubatake illumination grows more beautiful at night, so building strolling time in before or after dinner is recommended. Bear in mind, too, that the scent of sulfur can cling to clothing.

A Word of Advice

If you visit Kusatsu, enjoying the Yubatake twice, by day and by night, is recommended. By day, take in the power of the harvested mineral flowers and the gushing source water; by night, savor the enchanting scene of the illuminated steam. During the day, the yumomi show at Netsu-no-Yu offers a chance to touch the tradition unique to Kusatsu, created by song and the handling of the boards. Savoring the atmosphere of the steam and the culture of yumomi in a single day is the tabitabi JAPAN editorial team's recommended way to explore Kusatsu.

📚 Sources

The content here is organized from public information by the Kusatsu Onsen Tourism Association, official tourism information from Kusatsu Town, public information from the bodies running the Yubatake and the yumomi performance, and on-site guidance. The number of yumomi performances, their times, and fees change by season. Roads may freeze in winter. Because fees, hours, and access can change, please confirm with official sources before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Time needed: A half day for viewing the Yubatake and strolling the town, and still about a half day even with the yumomi performance.
• What to bring: Around the Yubatake there are many stone-paved streets and slopes, and at night the steam can leave the pavement damp, so non-slip comfortable shoes are reassuring. Roads may freeze in winter, so prepare for footing along with warmth.
• Suggested route: Stroll around the Yubatake, watch the yumomi performance, then enjoy the illuminated Yubatake at night.
• Time-of-day guide: The Yubatake illumination grows more beautiful at night, so build in stroll time before or after dinner.
• Note: Keep in mind that the scent of sulfur may cling to clothing.