Masuda and the Home of Sesshu: The Iwami Castle Town Loved by a Master of Ink Painting

A garden wrapped in silence, a world of mountains and water drawn in shades of ink. Masuda City in Shimane is the home of Sesshu, where the master of Japanese ink painting Sesshu Toyo spent his later years. Sesshu, who crossed to China to refine his technique and raised Japanese ink painting to the height of art, gave his heart to this land at the last, and famous gardens said to be his work and related culture are still carefully handed down here. Masuda is also known as the setting of the Japan Heritage story Savoring Masuda, a Masterpiece of Medieval Japan.

The Land Where Sesshu Spent His Later Years

Sesshu Toyo (about 1420 to 1506) was a painter-monk representative of the Muromachi period and the figure who perfected Japanese ink painting. He crossed to Ming China to study authentic technique, and after returning toured the country and left many masterpieces. He spent his later years here in Masuda, and it is said that amid the rich nature of Iwami he poured his passion into painting and garden making.

Famous Gardens Tied to Sesshu

Masuda retains famous gardens said to have been landscaped by Sesshu. The gardens of Ikoji and Mampukuji temples are both designated National Historic Sites and Places of Scenic Beauty, gardens in the Sesshu style whose skillful arrangement of ponds and stone settings resembles an ink painting. Ikoji, said to have been landscaped by Sesshu around 1478, is a crane-and-tortoise garden also known as a spot for weeping cherry blossoms, which color the garden brilliantly in spring. At Mampukuji the main hall is a National Important Cultural Property, and the Sesshu garden is a National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty.

Masuda, an Iwami Castle Town

Masuda has a history of flourishing as the castle town of the Masuda clan, who governed the Iwami region in medieval times. Besides the temples tied to Sesshu, castle ruins and old shrines and temples dot the area, giving off a calm charm. Facing the Sea of Japan, it also offers fresh seafood and local performing arts represented by the spirited Iwami Kagura.

Access and Basic Information

Both Ikoji and Mampukuji are about 2.5 kilometers east of JR Masuda Station on the San-in Main Line, roughly 10 minutes by car or taxi. Rental bicycles are available at the tourist association in front of the station, and the two temples are relatively close together. Iwami Airport is also close by car, convenient for those flying. Admission fees and hours for each temple and the peak times for cherry blossoms and autumn leaves vary by year, so please check official sources.

Practical Travel Notes

Spring, when weeping cherries bloom, and autumn, when leaves color the gardens, are the most beautiful seasons. Ikoji and Mampukuji are close together, and both gardens can be viewed carefully in about two to three hours. Since crowds increase at the peak of cherry or autumn color, viewing in the quiet morning hours is recommended. A rental bicycle lets you efficiently tour both temples and the historic sites in town. Masuda is also rich in Sea of Japan seafood, and with a meal, budget roughly 3,000 to 5,000 yen per person. Please check official sources for the schedule of Iwami Kagura performances.

Best Time to Visit

The world of ink painting stands out most in a quiet garden, so viewing in the morning before tour groups arrive is ideal. Ikoji with its weeping cherry and Mampukuji with its stone garden differ in character, so do compare the two. If using Iwami Airport, the location makes it easy to combine the trip with Hagi in Yamaguchi.

📚 Sources

This article was edited with reference to tourism guidance for Masuda City in Shimane, known as the home of Sesshu, the gardens of Ikoji and Manpukuji said to have been designed by Sesshu (national historic sites and scenic spots), and explanations of the Japan Heritage story on medieval Masuda. Local explanations were consulted for the history as the castle town of the Masuda clan and for Iwami kagura. The viewing hours of each temple and facility and the opening status of the gardens may change, so please check official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Suggested route: Centering on the gardens of Ikoji and Manpukuji, said to be designed by Sesshu, then touring the castle ruins and old temples and shrines lets you savor Masuda history.
• Highlights: Ikoji is also known for weeping cherry trees, which brighten the garden in spring, and the main hall of Manpukuji is an important cultural property.
• What to wear: Comfortable shoes are recommended for touring temples and the castle town on foot.
• Budget: Prepare the viewing fees for each temple.
• Nearby: Facing the Sea of Japan, you can enjoy fresh seafood and regional performing arts such as the spirited Iwami kagura.
• Best season: Spring, when the weeping cherry of Ikoji blooms, and the seasons when the gardens are lush green are especially recommended.