Taikodani Inari Shrine, an Inari Shrine in Tsuwano, Shimane, With Rows of Vermilion Torii Gates

Taikodani Inari Shrine in Tsuwano Town, Shimane Prefecture, is one of the five great Inari shrines of Japan, set on a hill overlooking Tsuwano, a town that still keeps the air of a castle town. In 1773, the seventh lord of the Tsuwano domain, Kamei Norisada, invited the deity from Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto to protect the castle and bring peace to the people. The tunnel of about a thousand vermilion torii gates lined along the approach overwhelms every visitor. Unusually in Japan, the shrine writes its name with characters meaning granting of wishes rather than the common Inari spelling.

Highlights

• The vivid tunnel formed by about a thousand vermilion torii gates along the main approach (roughly 263 stone steps)
• The view of the Tsuwano castle town and its rows of tiled roofs, seen from the hall on the hill
• The high standing of being counted among the five great Inari shrines of Japan, together with Takekoma, Kasama, Fushimi, and Yutoku
• The warm atmosphere of Inari faith, where people pray for prosperous business and the granting of wishes

Enjoying the Seasons

In spring the cherry blossoms of the castle town and the color of the vermilion gates overlap beautifully. In summer the green of the hills deepens and the vermilion of the gates stands out all the more. In autumn the surrounding hills turn color and the view of the leaves and the town is splendid. In winter the contrast of the snow dusted town and the vermilion gates creates a mellow charm.

Access and Basic Information

• Location: Ushiroda, Tsuwano Town, Kanoashi District, Shimane Prefecture
• Public transport: about a 30 minute walk from JR Tsuwano Station on the Yamaguchi Line, or about 5 minutes by car
• Approach: there is a route climbing the torii tunnel (roughly 263 stone steps) and a route that lets you drive to the upper parking area
• Parking: free parking is available
• It pairs well with a stroll through the castle town

Practical Travel Notes

• Best timing: a half day plan of worshipping in the morning and strolling the castle town in the afternoon is comfortable
• Time needed: about 30 minutes to an hour to climb the torii tunnel and worship, or half a day including the castle town
• Avoiding crowds: autumn foliage season and long weekends are busy. For a calm visit, aim for weekdays or early morning
• Nearby real spots: Tsuwano offers the Tonomachi street known for carp swimming in its canals, the former residence of writer Mori Ogai, and the SL Yamaguchi steam train (check operating days)
• Budget: worship is free; allow for meals and souvenirs in the town, and for the steam train if you plan to ride it

A Quick Tip

Climbing on foot through the tunnel of vermilion gates heightens the sense of anticipation. There are about 263 stone steps, so wear comfortable shoes. If you are short on energy, you can drive to the upper parking area. Enjoy it over a half day together with a walk through the Tsuwano castle town.

📚 Sources

This article was edited with reference to guidance from Taikodani Inari Shrine in Tsuwano, one of the five great Inari shrines of Japan, and local information on the approach lined with about a thousand vermilion torii (about 263 stone steps) and its origin as a shrine invited from Fushimi Inari Taisha by Kamei Norisada, the seventh lord of the Tsuwano domain. Explanations from the shrine and region were consulted for the origin of the inarispelling and the view of the castle town. Parking and the operation of the steam train and railway may change, so please check official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About 30 minutes to one hour to climb the torii tunnel and worship, or half a day with a castle-town stroll.
• Suggested route: There is a route up the front approach torii tunnel (about 263 steps) and a route by car to the upper parking, so choose to match your fitness.
• Access: It is about a 30-minute walk or five minutes by car from Tsuwano Station on the JR Yamaguchi Line.
• What to wear: Comfortable shoes are recommended for the stone steps.
• Best time of day: A half-day plan of worship in the morning and a castle-town stroll in the afternoon is comfortable, and autumn and holidays are crowded.
• Nearby: The town offers plenty of sights such as Tonomachi-dori (with its moat carp), the Mori Ogai former home, and the SL Yamaguchi train (check operating days).