Tsurugajo Castle and the Byakkotai

Tsurugajo Castle (Wakamatsu Castle), the symbol of Aizuwakamatsu in Fukushima, was the main stronghold of the Aizu domain and the stage of a fierce siege during the Boshin War at the end of the Edo period. Known too for the tragedy of the Byakkotai, it carries on to this day the history of Aizu, where the spirit of the samurai code still lives. Its red-tiled keep, reproducing its late-Edo appearance, is beautiful, welcoming many visitors amid the scenery of every season.

Highlights

Tsurugajo in Aizuwakamatsu was the main castle of the Aizu domain that confronted the new government forces in the Boshin War of 1868. It is known as an impregnable fortress that withstood a fierce siege lasting nearly a month. The Aizu domain fought on out of loyalty to the Tokugawa shogunate but surrendered in the end. It is a historic stage indispensable to the story of Japan turbulent transition.

The keep was torn down in the Meiji era and rebuilt in 1965. In 2011 its roof tiles were replaced with red tiles to reproduce its late-Edo appearance. This red-tiled keep is rare in Japan, and its striking form against a blue sky has become a symbol of Aizu. Inside, the keep houses a local history museum where you can readily learn about Aizu history and culture.

The tale handed down as the tragedy of Aizu is that of the Byakkotai. During the Boshin War, part of this corps of 16- and 17-year-old boys, seeing the burning castle town from Iimoriyama, mistakenly believed the castle had fallen and took their own lives. Their graves stand on Iimoriyama, still visited by many. On the same hill is Sazaedo, an unusual hall with a double-helix structure well worth seeing. It is a moving historic site that symbolizes the samurai spirit of Aizu.

Enjoying the Seasons

Spring, when cherry blossoms adorn the keep (peaking around late April), and autumn, with its foliage, are especially beautiful. The snow-clad red-tiled keep in winter is memorable too, showing a different face in each season. Strolling the castle garden and moatside is a pleasure alongside seasonal flowers and foliage. In some periods the castle is lit up at night, revealing a dreamlike aspect quite unlike its daytime form.

Access and Basic Information

From JR Banetsu West Line Aizuwakamatsu Station, the Haikara-san and Akabe loop buses reach Tsurugajo in about 15 minutes. By car it is about 10 minutes from Aizuwakamatsu IC on the Banetsu Expressway. Entry to the keep is paid, on the order of several hundred yen. Opening hours run roughly from morning to late afternoon; check the official site for the latest. Iimoriyama is reachable from the castle by car or bus, and many visit both.

Practical Travel Notes

A visit to Tsurugajo takes one to two hours for the keep and grounds, and adding Iimoriyama and Sazaedo makes about a half day. Cherry-blossom and autumn-foliage seasons are especially crowded, so early morning is best. The Byakkotai graves at Iimoriyama are a moving site and, with Sazaedo, a must-see. Nearby are the samurai residence, facilities conveying the teachings of the Nisshinkan school, and Higashiyama Onsen, letting you take in Aizu history and culture over a day or an overnight. The classic souvenir is the akabeko, an Aizu good-luck charm.

A Word of Advice

Tsurugajo and Iimoriyama are the two great spots for feeling Aizu late-Edo history. Walking the castle town with the Byakkotai story in mind, you sense more deeply the pride and sorrow of the people of Aizu. If time allows, visit the samurai residence and sites tied to the domain school for a journey into the spirit of Aizu samurai culture.

📚 Sources

Information on Tsurugajo Castle, the Byakkotai, and the history of late-Edo Aizu can be confirmed through public sources from Aizu-Wakamatsu City, its tourism bureau, and the castle, and Iimoriyama, Sazaedo, and the samurai residences offer on-site commentary. The keep's viewing fee and hours and the fares and schedules of the Haikara-san and Akabe loop buses may change, so please confirm with official sources before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: One to two hours for the keep and castle grounds, or about half a day adding Iimoriyama and Sazaedo.
• What to bring: Viewing the keep costs a fee, so small change is handy. There is plenty of walking around the grounds and Iimoriyama, so comfortable shoes are recommended.
• Suggested route: Tour the red-tiled keep, then visit the Byakkotai graves and Sazaedo on Iimoriyama for the classic path through Aizu's late-Edo history. Add the nearby samurai residences, Nisshinkan-related sites, and Higashiyama Onsen to explore the history and culture of Aizu over a day or an overnight.