Tsuyama Matsuri: Danjiri Floats and a One-Ton Mikoshi

Tsuyama Matsuri is the collective name for the autumn festivals of three shrines in Tsuyama, in northern Okayama Prefecture: Osumi Shrine to the east, Tokumori Shrine which serves as the guardian shrine of the old castle town, and Takano Shrine to the west. Across successive Sundays in October, carved wooden floats called danjiri work their way along the former Izumo highway and through the streets of the castle town, while at Tokumori Shrine a portable shrine weighing more than one ton is carried around the parish. The festival claims 400 years of tradition.

A Portable Shrine Weighing Over a Ton

The single most overwhelming sight belongs to Tokumori Shrine. Its bearers divide into red and white teams and carry a mikoshi weighing more than a ton around the parish districts over roughly eight hours. The carrying poles flex under the load, the phoenix on the roof sways, and the combination of shouted calls and hard breathing fills the narrow streets with a low, rolling sound. Before and after the mikoshi departs, the grounds fill from early morning for demonstrations of old style gunnery, performances of folk arts, and dances offered by primary school girls.

Danjiri Floats on the Old Izumo Highway

The other stars are the floats. The parish districts of Tokumori Shrine maintain twenty four danjiri today, of which an average of ten to twelve appear each year. Osumi Shrine has eleven and alternates between a full year, when all eleven turn out, and a quieter year with only two or three. Takano Shrine usually fields more than ten. The most striking scene belongs to Osumi Shrine's main day, when all eleven floats move in a single line along the old Izumo highway through the preserved townscape district, wheels grinding and flutes echoing off white plaster walls and wooden lattice fronts.

Three Shrines, Three Histories

Tokumori Shrine traces its founding to 733, was moved to its present site in 1603 by Mori Tadamasa, the first lord of the Tsuyama domain, and its main hall was rebuilt in 1664 by Mori Nagatsugu. Osumi Shrine is said to predate the early eighth century, moved to its present ground in 1620, and its main hall dates from 1686. Takano Shrine records its founding in 534, appears in the tenth century register of shrines, ranks among the three great shrines of the old Mimasaka province, and its main hall is an Important Cultural Property.

Tips for Visiting

The key to planning is that the three shrines do not share a date. Osumi Shrine holds its main day on the third Sunday of October, Tokumori Shrine on the fourth Sunday, and Takano Shrine on the Sunday closest to October 22, so with two weekends you can experience two quite distinct festivals. Each is preceded on the Saturday by an evening festival, when the lantern lit floats appear. October mornings and evenings in Tsuyama are cold against warm afternoons, so bring a jacket. The floats use the full width of the road, so in narrow lanes stand well back against the buildings.

Getting There

Tokumori Shrine is about a 15 minute walk from JR Tsuyama Station, or about 10 minutes by car from the Inhojo interchange on the Chugoku Expressway. Osumi Shrine is about a 20 minute walk from Tsuyama Station, or 15 minutes from the Tsuyama interchange. Takano Shrine is about a 15 minute walk from JR Inhojo Station. Tsuyama Station makes a practical base for the whole festival.

Practical Information

• Dates: Osumi Shrine on the third Sunday of October, Tokumori Shrine on the fourth Sunday of October, and Takano Shrine on the Sunday closest to October 22. Each is preceded by an evening festival from late Saturday afternoon into the night.
• Venues: Osumi, Tokumori and Takano shrines and their parish districts in Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture, centered on the Tsuyama castle site and the old Izumo highway
• Organizer and contact: Tsuyama Matsuri executive committee, 30-9 Sange, Tsuyama City, c/o the Tsuyama Chamber of Commerce and Industry, 0868-22-3141
• Access: About 15 minutes on foot from JR Tsuyama Station to Tokumori Shrine, about 20 minutes to Osumi Shrine, and about 15 minutes from JR Inhojo Station to Takano Shrine
• Website: https://tsuyamamatsuri.com/

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Tsuyama Matsuri official website, Tokumori Shrine official website, Okayama Kanko WEB operated by the Okayama Prefecture Tourism Federation)