Misasa Hanayu Matsuri: The Jinsho Giant Tug of War

Misasa Onsen, in the hills of central Tottori Prefecture, is famous for radon rich waters said to be among the strongest in the world. Once a year, on May 3 and 4, the quiet spa town turns loud. Hanayu Matsuri celebrates the birth of the Buddha, gives thanks for the blessing of the hot spring, and prays for a good harvest and prosperous trade. Its climax is Jinsho, a giant tug of war held on the night of the fourth, in which two ropes roughly 80 metres long, twisted from wisteria vines cut on the slopes around Mount Mitoku, are hauled by teams from the eastern and western halves of the district. It is designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.

Two Ton Ropes Locked Together

The ropes used in Jinsho are made from wisteria vine and come in a male and a female form. Each is about 80 metres long, up to two metres around at its thickest, and weighs two tonnes. On May 3 the work of twisting them, called tsunakarami, goes on from morning until early evening, and the whole town smells of freshly cut vine.

The main event is the following night. The two ropes are raised upright, one person riding each to steer it, and are brought together and pulled apart again in a series of grappling bouts. When the moment is judged right, a wooden bar known as a kasegi is driven through to lock them into a single line, and the teams begin to pull. Drums, shouted calls, steam drifting from the bathhouses and a road packed shoulder to shoulder: the narrow main street seems to shake.

East Wins the Harvest, West Wins Trade

Jinsho is a tug of war tied to the May seasonal festival, and its purpose is divination. If the eastern side wins, the year will bring a good harvest; if the western side wins, business will prosper.

This is not a simple contest of strength: the whole sequence, from twisting the vine to joining the ropes and pulling them, is treated as a rite. The preservation body is the Misasa district itself, and residents handle the preparations every year. It was designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 2009.

Child Processions Through the Spa Town

Hanayu Matsuri is more than the tug of war. Across the two days, rites are held at Misasa Shrine along with a memorial service to the healing Buddha, and a procession of costumed children and a portable shrine make their way through the streets. The small figures in bright robes moving along the road beside the Mitoku River are a gentle counterpoint to the night rope pulling. Misasa is a bathing town first of all, and a soak between events is part of the pleasure.

Tips for Visiting

Jinsho starts late in the evening, so staying overnight in the spa town is by far the most practical plan. The main street is narrow and the good viewing spots shift as soon as the ropes start moving. Never stand in the path of a rope, and follow the marshals. Even in May the nights are cool here, so bring a layer and shoes you can move in. The rope twisting on May 3 happens in daylight, so arrive a day early to see how they are built. The dates are fixed and fall in the middle of Japan's Golden Week holiday, so book accommodation months ahead.

Getting There

Misasa Onsen is about 20 minutes by local bus from Kurayoshi Station on the JR Sanin Main Line, which is served by limited express trains. Arriving by air, a limousine bus runs from Tottori Sakyu Conan Airport to Kurayoshi Station in about 45 minutes. On festival days the main street becomes the venue and traffic restrictions are in force nearby, so drivers should leave the car at their accommodation and walk.

Practical Information

• Dates: May 3 and 4 every year (rope twisting on the 3rd, the Jinsho tug of war on the night of the 4th)
• Venue: the main street of Misasa Onsen and Misasa Shrine, Misasa cho, Tohaku District, Tottori Prefecture
• Enquiries: Misasa Onsen Tourism Association, tel. 0858-43-0431
• Access: about 20 minutes by local bus from JR Kurayoshi Station
• Parking: traffic restrictions apply around the venue; use public transport or your accommodation's car park
• Cultural designation: Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan (2009)
• Official website: https://misasaonsen.jp/

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Misasa Onsen official website, Tottori Prefecture official tourism website, Agency for Cultural Affairs Cultural Heritage Online)