Mitokusan Fire Festival: Fire Walking with Yamabushi

Mount Mitoku rises to 899.9 metres in Misasa, central Tottori Prefecture. It is best known for Nageiredo, a National Treasure hall wedged into a hollow in a cliff face, and it has been a centre of Shugendo mountain asceticism for centuries. On the last Sunday of October the mountain holds Honoo no Saiten, the Fire Festival. Conch trumpets echo through the valley as yamabushi ascetics chant their way up the approach, then feed goma sticks inscribed with people's wishes into a roaring fire. The day ends with the fire walking rite, in which participants cross the still hot ashes barefoot.

The Great Goma Fire Rite

The centrepiece is the saito goma daihoyo, the outdoor fire rite, which begins in the early afternoon. Announced by conch shells and the rattle of pilgrim staffs, a procession of yamabushi climbs the stone approach to the altar in the precinct. Sutras are chanted, the pyre is lit, and white smoke pours upward before the first flames leap clear.

The ascetics then throw in, one after another, the goma sticks on which visitors have written their names and wishes. Resin cracks and smokes, heat rolls out across the precinct, and the chanting and conch calls never stop. In late October the trees around the temple are beginning to turn, and their colours sit beautifully against the fire.

Walking Barefoot Across the Embers

Once the pyre has burned down, the hiwatari, or fire walking rite, begins in the middle of the afternoon. The ascetics rake the hot ash and charcoal into a long narrow path, cross first, and then visitors line up and walk it barefoot.

The custom is to take each step holding a wish in mind: recovery from illness, health, or a long held ambition. Participation costs 1,000 yen. The heat through the soles, the chanting on either side and the elation afterwards explain its enduring appeal.

A Mountain Temple With a National Treasure

The venue, Sanbutsuji on Mount Mitoku, is famous for Nageiredo, built into a cliff hollow and designated a National Treasure. It is thought to date from the late Heian period, and its name comes from a legend that the ascetic En no Gyoja hurled the completed building into place by supernatural power.

On festival day the events occupy the area from the foot of the approach up to the main hall, but the pilgrimage climb to Nageiredo continues as usual. Reception is open from 8am to 3pm, with descent by 4.30pm. The offering is 1,200 yen for adults, combining an 800 yen climbing fee and a 400 yen entry offering, and 600 yen for school students.

Tips for Visiting

The programme runs from about 9.30am to 3pm and includes bamboo sake, ascetics' rice porridge and dedicatory martial arts demonstrations, so arrive in the morning to see it all. If you intend to walk the fire, wear shoes that come off easily and bring a towel.

Late October mornings and evenings here are cold and much of the precinct is in shade, so bring a jacket. The climb to Nageiredo is a genuine mountain route with chains and tree roots, and proper footwear is required.

Getting There

Local buses run from Kurayoshi Station on the JR Sanin Main Line via Misasa Onsen to Mount Mitoku; Kurayoshi is served by limited express trains. For drivers, the temple has a first car park with 15 spaces and a second with 80. On festival day a free shuttle bus also operates from the Misasa Onsen multipurpose car park, which holds 54 vehicles. The mountain road and the approach are narrow, so the shuttle is the surest option.

Practical Information

• Date: the last Sunday of October every year, roughly 9.30am to 3pm
• Venue: Mitokusan Sanbutsuji, Mitoku, Misasa cho, Tohaku District, Tottori Prefecture
• Main programme: bamboo sake and ascetics' porridge, dedicatory demonstrations, the great goma fire rite from about 1pm, fire walking from about 2.15pm (1,000 yen to take part), and a bell memorial service from about 3pm
• Enquiries: Mitokusan Sanbutsuji, tel. 0858-43-2666; Misasa Onsen Tourism Association, tel. 0858-43-0431
• Access: local bus from JR Kurayoshi Station via Misasa Onsen
• Parking: first car park 15 spaces, second car park 80 spaces; free shuttle bus on the day from the Misasa Onsen multipurpose car park (54 spaces)
• Official website: https://mitokusan.jp/

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Mitokusan Sanbutsuji official website, Misasa Onsen official website)