Aizu Candle Festival: 10,000 Lights at Tsurugajo Castle

For two evenings in mid February, the castle town of Aizuwakamatsu in Fukushima Prefecture is lit by roughly 10,000 candle flames. The Aizu Erorosoku Matsuri, subtitled Yukihotaru, or snow fireflies, centres on Tsurugajo Castle, with a second stage at Oyakuen, the garden of the Matsudaira lords of the Aizu domain, and further displays scattered around the city. It began in 2000 as a way of introducing visitors to the painted candles that are one of the region's traditional crafts, and has grown into the signature winter event of Aizu.

Snow and Flame at Tsurugajo

In the grounds of Tsurugajo, candles set in bamboo tubes and small ceramic lanterns are arranged along the moat, beside the stone walls and across the plaza in front of the keep. Once the lighting ceremony begins, staff move from one to the next and lines of light stretch out over the snow. What separates this from an electric illumination is that the flames move. Every draught of air makes them shiver in unison, and the light reflected off the snow flickers with them. In the cold you can catch the faint scent of wax, and at quieter moments the only sound is snow creaking underfoot. Above it all the red tiled keep stands quietly in silhouette.

The Quieter Glow of Oyakuen

The second venue, Oyakuen, is a nationally designated Place of Scenic Beauty and was the garden of the Aizu Matsudaira family. Bamboo tubes and ceramic lanterns are placed around the strolling garden and its central pond, and the flames double themselves on the water. During the festival hot sweet amazake is served near the front car park while supplies last, and matcha with a sweet is available at the tea pavilion. Where the castle is broad and open, Oyakuen is intimate and hushed. Entry to both venues is free, and only food and drink are charged for. Seeing both, and feeling the difference, is really the point of the evening.

The Craft Behind the Candles

Candle making in Aizu goes back to the Muromachi period, when the local lord encouraged the cultivation of lacquer trees; wax pressed from the lacquer berries became the raw material for candles. Tradition holds that during the Tensho era Gamo Ujisato invited craftsmen from Omi, and that painted decoration began at that point. Candles bearing chrysanthemums, peonies and plum blossom became a signature product of Aizu. Nearly every stage is done by hand, from making the wick through dipping, planing, polishing and painting. Because the wick is thick, the flame is large and the candle burns for a long time.

Tips for Visiting

Aizuwakamatsu in February means snow on the ground and hard cold. Waterproof boots with grip, thick gloves and a hat are essential. The candles burn only from about 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm, so aim for the window just after sunset when there is still blue in the sky; that is when the contrast between snow, flame and sky photographs best. If you use a tripod, keep the paths clear. The loop buses make it easy to move between venues, but check the timetable in advance, since services thin out in the evening.

Getting There

For Tsurugajo, take the Haikara-san or Akabe loop bus from JR Aizuwakamatsu Station, get off at Tsurugajo Iriguchi and walk about 7 minutes. For Oyakuen, use the same buses and alight at Oyakuen Iriguchi. By car there is parking for about 360 vehicles at Tsurugajo Park, though it is busy during the event. If you are not used to driving on snow, the bus from the station is the safer choice.

Practical Information

• When: Two days in mid February each year
• Where: Tsurugajo Castle (main venue), Oyakuen garden (second venue) and other sites around Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima
• Hours: 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm, with the lighting ceremony from 5:00 pm
• Organiser: Aizu Matsuri Kyokai, tel. 0242-23-4141
• Access: Loop bus from JR Aizuwakamatsu Station to Tsurugajo Iriguchi, then 7 minutes on foot
• Parking: About 360 spaces at Tsurugajo Park
• Admission: Free at both main venues; food and drink are charged
• Official website: https://www.aizukanko.com/kk/festival/erousoku-matsuri

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Aizu Matsuri Kyokai official website, Aizuwakamatsu City official website, Aizu Lacquerware Cooperative official website)