Aizu Higanjishi: Lion Dances Welcoming Spring in Aizu

Spring arrives in Aizuwakamatsu, in Fukushima Prefecture, with the sound of a flute and a small drum. Every March, timed to the start of the spring equinox period, sets of three lion dancers make their way through the streets of the city in an event known as Aizu Higanjishi. The dance is a prayer for a good harvest and for the safety of each household, and above all a shared celebration that the long Aizu winter is finally over. Performances are given at Tsurugajo Castle, the Oyakuen garden, Amidaji temple and many other places around town.

One Dancer, One Lion

The Aizu version differs from the lion dance most visitors picture. Rather than two people working inside a single costume, here one dancer is one lion. The performer wears the lion head, carries a small drum at the waist and holds a pair of short sticks. Because each dancer beats their own drum while moving, gesture and rhythm lock together perfectly. The three lions face one another in a rough triangle, dropping low and springing up in time with the soft line of the flute, and the cloth hanging behind each lion head ripples with the motion. The overall impression is elegance rather than ferocity.

Two Days Through the Streets

This is not a festival that gathers a crowd in one square. The lions travel, and that movement is the form of the rite itself. In Aizuwakamatsu they work their way along the shopping streets, including Nanukamachi Dori, Hommachi Dori, Shiyakusho Dori, Shinmei Dori and Omachi Dori, stopping to dance at key points. The performances at landmarks such as Tsurugajo, Oyakuen and Amidaji are especially popular. Two preservation societies, Tennei and Komatsu, lead the tradition. Having the lions dance in front of a shop or a house has long been believed to secure a safe year for those inside, and when the flute comes closer people on the street simply stop and turn.

The Lions That Entered the Castle

The dance also appears at a famous moment in Aizu history. During the Boshin War, when Tsurugajo was under siege, Yamakawa Okura is said to have led relief troops into the castle by placing lion dancers at the head of his column. The besieging forces took the procession for a religious parade and let it pass, and the column marched in. The story has been retold in Aizu ever since. It is said that the region once had more than thirty lion troupes; today only a handful remain, and the preservation societies work to keep the dance alive.

Tips for Visiting

March in Aizu is still cold, and snow or ice often lingers on the pavement, so bring warm clothing and shoes with grip. Because the lions are always on the move, the real question is where to catch them. The Aizu Matsuri Kyokai and the federation of shopping streets publish the route and timings, so check in advance and position yourself ahead of the procession. Each performance lasts only a few minutes to a quarter of an hour, so rather than settling for one, follow along and watch several. If you are photographing, keep well clear of the dancers' path.

Getting There

The main route covers the central shopping district within walking distance of JR Aizuwakamatsu Station, plus the Tsurugajo and Oyakuen area reached by loop bus. The Haikara-san and Akabe loop buses connect Nanukamachi, Tsurugajo and Oyakuen, so you can hop between stops as the lions move. Some streets in the centre are narrow, and walking combined with the bus is far more comfortable than driving.

Practical Information

• When: Every March, timed to the beginning of the spring equinox period
• Where: Tsurugajo Castle, Oyakuen garden, Amidaji temple, Nanukamachi Dori, Shinmei Dori and other locations in Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima
• Organiser: Aizu Matsuri Kyokai, tel. 0242-23-4141; Aizuwakamatsu Shopping Street Federation, tel. 0242-37-2789
• Access: Haikara-san and Akabe loop buses from JR Aizuwakamatsu Station
• Parking: No dedicated car park, as the event moves through the city. Use Tsurugajo Park parking or similar
• Official website: https://www.aizukanko.com/kk/festival/higanjishi

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Aizu Matsuri Kyokai official website, Utsukushima Denshi Jiten by the Fukushima Prefectural Board of Education, Bandai Town official website)