Miyajima Chinkasai: A New Year Eve Festival of Fire

On the evening of December 31 every year, the island of Miyajima in Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture, holds a fire ritual called Chinkasai. It takes place on Mikasahama, the beach in front of Itsukushima Shrine, and lasts about 30 minutes from 6 in the evening. Islanders carry torches of every size across the sand: giant ones that take 20 to 30 people to lift, and small ones about 50 centimetres long that a child can hold. Dozens of flames move in the darkness at the water's edge while the rest of the island waits for the temple bells of New Year's Eve.

Great Torches on the Beach

After sunset, people carrying torches gather on Mikasahama. First, an altar bearing sacred fire is prepared in the purification hall of Itsukushima Shrine. Once the officiating priest has recited the norito prayer, the flame is passed to a torch, then to a large bundle of brushwood set up on the beach, and from that bundle to the great torches themselves. Bearing the sacred fire, the large torches are carried up and down the sand to the chant of "taimatsu, yoi yoi, taimatsu, yoi yoi." Pine resin cracks and spits, sparks fly upward, and feet churn through the sand. The smell of smoke mixes with the salt of the tide, and ahead of it all the shrine buildings and the great torii float in the dark. A procession of fire with the sea behind it is a sight particular to this island.

Fire to Take Home

While the great torches circle the beach, worshippers and residents light their own small torches from the sacred flame. Once extinguished, these are taken home and placed on the household altar, where they are said to serve as a charm against fire for the coming year. In earlier times, the flame brought home was used directly to cook the first meals of the New Year, a reminder of how closely the shrine's fire was tied to daily life.

From Mountain Ascetics to Shrine Ritual

Until the Edo period the event was called Tsugomori Yamabushi and was a community observance organised by mountain ascetics. After the Meiji Restoration it was taken over by Itsukushima Shrine and became the ceremony held today. As the name suggests, it is a rite in which fire is handled in order to subdue the danger of fire; for a town of densely packed wooden buildings backed against a mountain, a blaze was the most frightening disaster imaginable. Among the annual observances at the World Heritage shrine, this is one of the least staged for visitors and one of the most closely tied to how people on the island actually live.

Tips for Visiting

Sparks fly, so your choice of clothing matters. Synthetic down jackets and fleece can be burned through easily, so wear cotton outerwear or something you would not mind damaging. The venue is sand, and the shoreline at the end of December is windy and genuinely cold, so gloves, a hat and thick socks are close to essential. The ritual starts at 6pm, but you will be moving around in the dark, so it helps to cross to the island while it is still light and get your bearings. If you stay on afterwards, you can experience the atmosphere of the shrine as the first prayers of the New Year begin. Ferry timetables between New Year's Eve and New Year's Day differ from the usual schedule, so confirm your return crossing in advance.

Getting There

Reach Miyajima by ferry from JR Miyajimaguchi Station or Hiroden Miyajimaguchi Station. From the Miyajima pier it is about a 15-minute walk along the shore to Mikasahama; since the venue is the beach beside the entrance to Itsukushima Shrine, following the main approach will bring you there naturally. Ferries are busy over the New Year period and run to a modified timetable, so allow extra time in both directions.

Practical Information

• Date and time: December 31 every year, from 18:00 for around 30 minutes
• Venue: Mikasahama, the beach in front of Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture
• Organiser and enquiries: Itsukushima Shrine; Miyajima Tourist Association, tel. 0829-44-2011
• Access: Ferry from JR Miyajimaguchi or Hiroden Miyajimaguchi to Miyajima pier, then about 15 minutes on foot
• Parking: No festival parking on the island. Park near Miyajimaguchi and cross by ferry
• Official website: https://www.miyajima.or.jp/

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Miyajima Tourist Association official website)