Atsugi and the Nakatsugawa Sweetfish — Satoyama Cuisine of the Tanzawa Streams

Natural sweetfish raised in the clear waters of the Tanzawa mountains and the scenic satoyama landscape of Lake Miyagase: Atsugi City in Kanagawa offers the bounty of clean rivers and hills that feel surprisingly remote for a location so near the capital. Summer sweetfish, spring cherry blossoms, and autumn foliage all connect the changing seasons directly to what appears on the table. Just a short trip beyond Hon-Atsugi Station, the unhurried rhythm of rural Japan takes over.

Highlights

The Nakatsugawa (a tributary of the Sagami River) flowing through Atsugi City is known as a clear stream rising in the Tanzawa mountains, and in summer natural sweetfish (ayu) ascend it. Sweetfish raised in clean water are highly fragrant, earning the name kogyo (fragrant fish), and are enjoyed in many preparations such as salt-grilling, candied simmering, segoshi thin-sliced sashimi, and uruka salted innards. Riverside restaurants are known for shioyaki, sweetfish skewered and slowly grilled over charcoal, where the faintly bitter innards balance the delicate sweetness of the flesh.

Sweetfish fishing generally opens around June each year, a summer tradition awaited by clear-stream anglers. In the fishing zone along the Nakatsugawa, the traditional tomozuri method, which uses the fish territorial instinct to lure others, can be enjoyed. On opening day many anglers cast their rods and the riverbanks come alive from early morning.

Spreading across the northern side of Atsugi, Lake Miyagase is the reservoir of Miyagase Dam, completed in 2000 by damming the Nakatsugawa, and it ranks among the largest artificial lakes in the greater Tokyo region. The sweep of the lake against the Tanzawa peaks is among the most beautiful in the wider Kanto area, and it is listed among Japan chosen dam lakes. Sightseeing boats and the dam scheduled water releases are further attractions.

Seasonal Highlights

Sweetfish cuisine is at its best roughly from June to September. The flavor shifts with the season, from the young sweetfish just after the opening to the roe-bearing autumn fish of late summer. Around Lake Miyagase, spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage can be enjoyed, and in winter (around December) a large illumination decorates the native fir trees along the shore. The valleys of Tanzawa stay cool with river breezes even in summer, making it a fine season for a riverside meal that doubles as an escape from the heat.

Access and Essentials

• Base station: Hon-Atsugi Station on the Odakyu Line (roughly one hour from Shinjuku by Odakyu express)
• For Lake Miyagase, take a local bus from Hon-Atsugi Station (roughly 45 minutes to an hour including transfers)
• Sweetfish restaurants are scattered along the Nakatsugawa and are convenient by car, with many offering parking
• Operating seasons and reservation policies differ by restaurant, so checking in advance is recommended

Practical Travel Notes

The best season for sweetfish is summer (June to September). At lunchtime, riverside terraces and tatami rooms fill quickly, so reservations are reassuring on weekends. As a time guide, allow one to two hours for a sweetfish meal alone, or half a day to a full day when combined with sightseeing at Lake Miyagase. For budget, a single salt-grilled sweetfish starts from a few hundred yen, while a full sweetfish course runs into the low thousands of yen. Nearby are real spots worth pairing, such as the satoyama hot springs of Nanasawa and Kotakuji, and Iiyama Kannon (Chokokuji). If you do not have a car, bus frequency is limited, so it helps to check the timetable on the way out.

A Word of Advice

Sweetfish is a fish where freshness and season are everything. To aim for natural ayu, summer after the opening is ideal. To combine Lake Miyagase with a sweetfish meal, it flows well to finish the lake sightseeing first and eat by the river in the early afternoon. The salt-grilled sweetfish, easy to eat down to the bones, is best savored whole, bitter innards and all, in the manner favored by connoisseurs.

📚 Sources

This information is based on public materials from local governments such as Atsugi City and tourism associations, on public information from restaurants and the fisheries cooperative, and on on-site guidance. Sweetfish are seasonal, and offerings and business hours vary by shop. Fees, hours, and access may change, so please check official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About one to two hours for a meal and a riverside stroll
• What to bring: Some small cash, as some shops are cash-only; watch your footing by the river
• Suggested route: Enjoy the sweetfish dishes mentioned in the article at restaurants around the Sagami River, together with the riverside scenery
• Access: From Odakyu Hon-Atsugi Station toward the riverside by bus or car
• Budget: From around a thousand yen per meal is a guide