Hakone Tozan Railway: Hydrangea Train and Steep Mountain Routes

Climbing steep slopes with switchbacks, the Hakone Tozan Railway is itself a sightseeing attraction from the window. As one of Japan foremost genuine mountain railways, it rises rapidly through elevation, and in the rainy season hydrangeas along the entire line greet passengers. Linking hot spring towns as it runs, this train journey is one of the highlights of Hakone sightseeing. (It is a separate line from the Odakyu Romancecar that runs directly from Shinjuku, climbing from Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto toward Gora.)

Highlights

The Hakone Tozan Railway is a mountain railway linking Odawara Station and Gora Station, and it uses switchbacks, reversing direction to climb steep grades. There are three switchbacks along the line, such as the Deyama signal station, and the sight of it threading between iron bridges over deep valleys and trees pressing close to the window is thrilling. The maximum grade is 80 permille, a climb of 80 meters over 1,000 meters, the steepest for an adhesion-type railway in Japan, and this technical achievement is itself a highlight.

The Hakone Tozan Railway is also cherished by the nickname Hydrangea Train. From mid-June to mid-July, some 10,000 hydrangea plants bloom along the line, coloring the view blue and purple. Originally planted to prevent landslides, they are now an early-summer attraction. Because of the difference in elevation, the blooming continues over a long period from the foot to the summit, and the evening illumination (the Night Hydrangea service) is also popular.

Seasonal Highlights

June and July, when the hydrangeas peak, are an especially popular season. However, the best viewing season is very crowded, so using the reserved-seat Night Hydrangea service is one good option. The fresh green of early summer and the autumn foliage (typically November) also make the view beautiful, so it can be enjoyed year round. In winter the air is clear and the valley scenery stands out sharply.

Access and Essentials

• Section: Odawara Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station to Gora Station (total length about 15 km)
• From Shinjuku, ride the Odakyu Romancecar directly to Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto (a limited express ticket is required), then transfer to the mountain train
• The Hakone Free Pass gives unlimited rides on Hakone vehicles including the mountain train
• From the terminus at Gora, transfer to the cable car and then the ropeway to reach Owakudani and Lake Ashi

Practical Travel Notes

Recommended times are weekdays and mornings, easier for avoiding crowds. To enjoy the hydrangeas from the window, a seat on the valley side in the direction of travel is favorable. As a time guide, the ride from Odawara or Hakone-Yumoto to Gora takes roughly 40 minutes to about an hour including transfers. A Hakone loop connecting train, cable car, ropeway, and sightseeing boat turns the travel itself into sightseeing. For budget, the Free Pass plus admissions and meals runs from the low thousands of yen. Along the line, Miyanoshita and Gora have many hot spring inns and museums, so stopping off along the way is another way to enjoy it.

A Word of Advice

During the hydrangea illumination period ridership concentrates, so allow plenty of time. As steep grades and sharp curves continue, hold the handrails inside the car for safety. The cable car and ropeway you transfer to at Gora can suspend service in bad weather, so checking the day operating status is reassuring.

📚 Sources

This information is based on public materials from the railway companies and from local governments and tourism associations such as Hakone Town, and on on-site guidance. Service frequency and timetables change with the season. Fees, hours, and access may change, so please check official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About half a day to a full day for the ride and the sights along the line
• What to bring: Be ready for tickets and reserved seating; a jacket for temperature swings in the mountains
• Suggested route: Head toward Hakone on the railway mentioned in the article and enjoy it together with the sights along the line and in Hakone
• Access: From areas such as Shinjuku toward Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto; arrange reserved seats in advance
• Budget: A few thousand yen one way is a guide for the fare and limited-express charge