Yugawara Onsen: A Hot Spring Town Celebrated in the Manyoshu Poetry

An ancient hot spring sung of in the Manyoshu, Yugawara Onsen is a resort where long-established inns line a valley, a culturally rich retreat beloved by many writers and artists. Close to the city yet quietly restful, it is a hidden-gem hot spring for grown-up travelers.

Highlights

Yugawara Onsen lies in Yugawara Town, Kanagawa, an ancient hot spring resort mentioned even in the Manyoshu poetry anthology of the Nara period. From the Meiji through the Showa eras, many writers and artists such as Natsume Soseki, Akutagawa Ryunosuke, and Shimazaki Toson stayed here, giving it a reputation as a town fragrant with cultural heritage. The hot spring town spreads along the Chitosegawa River, with distinctive inns set amid beautiful valley scenery. The waters are gentle chloride and sulfate springs that leave the skin moist. Deeper in the town are the scenic Fudo Falls and Gosho Shrine, known for matchmaking, offering plenty to explore on a stroll.

Seasonal Enjoyment

Yugawara's winter highlight is the Yugawara Plum Grove in Makuyama Park. About 4,000 white and crimson plum trees color the slopes of Mt. Makuyama, and the Plum Festival is held from February into March. The blossoms blanketing the hillside are a spectacular sight, like a carpet of plum flowers. Beyond the grove, the valley shows different faces through the fresh greenery of May and June and the autumn foliage of late November. The hot springs themselves can be enjoyed year-round.

Access and Essentials

Access is from Yugawara Station on the JR Tokaido Line, with buses reaching the hot spring town in about 5 to 10 minutes. From Tokyo Station it is about 1.5 hours by train. For Makuyama Park (Yugawara Plum Grove), take a Hakone Tozan bus about 15 minutes from Yugawara Station to the Makuyama Koen stop. During the Plum Festival, temporary direct buses run and the parking lot is paid, around 500 yen depending on the season. The neighboring Manazuru Peninsula and Atami are only 20 to 30 minutes away by car, so sea and hot springs can be enjoyed together.

Practical Travel Notes

Reserving an inn in advance is reassuring. Weekends during the Plum Festival crowd the area around Makuyama Park, so a morning visit or public transport is recommended. Some inns and public baths accept day visitors, letting you sample the waters without staying overnight. Budget-wise, day bathing runs from a few hundred to a thousand-plus yen, while inn stays vary by plan. Comfortable walking shoes suit a stroll through the plum grove. For a day trip, allow half a day to a full day for bathing and walking.

A Word of Advice

This valley hot spring beloved by writers is ideal for a quiet grown-up trip. If visiting in winter, pairing the Makuyama plum grove with the hot springs is the quintessential Yugawara experience. Soak slowly and savor the valley through the seasons.

📚 Sources

This information is based on public materials from prefectural and municipal governments and tourism associations, on the public information of each onsen facility and inn, and on on-site guidance. Hours and fees differ by facility. Fees, hours, and access may change, so please check official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About one to two hours for a day bath, or half a day to a full day if staying over
• What to bring: A towel, a change of clothes, and cash for the bathing fee; dress for the season
• Suggested route: Centered on the hot-spring area mentioned in the article, tour it with the surrounding nature and highlights
• Access: By rail, bus, or car; check facility reception hours in advance
• Budget: From a few hundred yen for a day bath; lodging is separate

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Kogome no Yu (Yugawara Town's day-use hot spring): 9:00-21:00 (last admission 20:30). Bathing costs 1,100 yen for adults and 600 yen for elementary and junior high school students; for the evening session from 19:00 to 21:00 it is 600 yen for adults and 400 yen for elementary and junior high school students
• Closing days of Kogome no Yu: Mondays (the following day when Monday is a public holiday). It may also close for equipment inspections and over the New Year period
• Makuyama Park (Yugawara Plum Grove): Normally free to enter. During the "Ume no Utage" plum festival, the park is open 9:00-16:00 with an admission fee of 300 yen (for those aged 15 and over, excluding junior high school students)
• Transport during the Ume no Utage period: Temporary direct buses run from JR Yugawara Station to Makuyama Park, with fares of 330 yen for adults and 170 yen for children
• Inquiries: 0465-63-6944 (Kogome no Yu) / 0465-63-2111 (Tourism Division, Yugawara Town)
• Official information: Yugawara Onsen official tourism website (Yugawara Onsen Tourism Association) / Yugawara Town official website

Note: The above is a guide based on information published by the individual facilities and local authorities. Hours and fees may change, so please check the official sources before you set out.