Nishiteru Shrine, a Moon Deity Sanctuary on Mount Otaki in Tokushima

Mount Otaki rises on the border between Mima City in Tokushima Prefecture and Takamatsu City in Kagawa Prefecture. Just below its summit, at an elevation of about 946 meters, stands Nishiteru Shrine. Because it enshrines the moon deity Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, also known as Tsukuyomi-no-Okami, as its principal deity, it is known as the shrine of the moon god, with the three Munakata goddesses as attendant deities, and it has long drawn faith as a deity who wards off misfortune. By shrine tradition its origin lies in Tsukuyomi, ruler of the world of night, sending the goddess Takitsuhime-no-Mikoto to Mount Otaki to watch over the Seto Inland Sea, and in the early Heian period Kukai is said to have secluded himself on this mountain in training, making it a mountain training ground where deities and buddhas were worshipped together. Resting in the silence of the deep mountains, this shrine is quietly regarded as one of the most spiritual places in Shikoku.

Highlights

• The venerable shrine hall dedicated to Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto and the crisp air that hangs over the mountaintop
• The history of mountain faith blending deities and buddhas, tied to the training of Kukai
• The only beech forest in the Sanuki Mountains, spreading near the summit, and the clear air found only at this height
• The subsidiary shrines lined up in the precinct, including Hachidai Ryuo-sha, Kumano Shrine, and Inari Shrine, along with the Wishing Stone and the Prayer Stone

Why It Is Called the Shrine of the Moon God

Nishiteru Shrine is called the shrine of the moon god because its principal deity is Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, also known as Tsukuyomi-no-Okami. Shrines across Japan that enshrine the sun goddess Amaterasu are many, but shrines whose principal deity is Tsukuyomi, ruler of the world of night, are far fewer. According to shrine tradition, the origin lies in Tsukuyomi sending the goddess Takitsuhime-no-Mikoto to Mount Otaki to watch over the Seto Inland Sea, with the three Munakata goddesses as attendant deities. A deity who watches over the sea is enshrined not by the shore but on a summit 946 meters high, and this arrangement expresses precisely the character of Mount Otaki, a place from which the view reaches all the way to the Inland Sea.

In the early Heian period, moreover, Kukai is said to have secluded himself on this mountain in training, making it a mountain training ground where deities and buddhas were worshipped together. That a Shinto shrine should carry so strong an air of mountain Buddhism is the result of that accumulated history. The sight of subsidiary shrines such as Hachidai Ryuo-sha, Kumano Shrine, and Inari Shrine standing side by side in the precinct, with the Wishing Stone and the Prayer Stone set among them, also tells of how many strands of faith have been layered here over a long span of time.

The Face of Each Season

Because it sits on a summit 946 meters high, Nishiteru Shrine differs from the foothills in the very pace at which the seasons advance.

Spring brings the curious sensation that, as you climb the mountain road, the scenery rewinds from spring back into winter. In the precinct, the spring Daidai Kagura prayer festival is held every year on the fourth Sunday of April, and the sound of sacred music rings out over the mountaintop.

Early summer is the season when the fresh greenery is at its most beautiful. Near the summit of Mount Otaki spreads what is said to be the only beech forest in the Sanuki Mountains, and walking the forest floor where young leaves filter the sunlight, the very air of the approach seems tinged with green.

Summer is cool enough to make the heat of the foothills seem unreal, and the breeze passing through the stand of trees is a pleasure. Mountain weather changes quickly, however, and fog can roll in all at once.

Autumn brings colored leaves along with clear air, and there are more days when the view reaches far into the distance. The vista at dusk is exceptional, but since the sun sets early, allow plenty of time for the descent.

Winter is bitterly cold, and the road surface may freeze. Warm clothing and a check on conditions along the mountain road are essential.

Photography Tips

At a mountaintop shrine, the fact that the light changes from moment to moment is both the difficulty and the fun.

To photograph the shrine hall, the early morning or the evening, when the light softens, is better than around midday when direct sunlight is strong. If shafts of light slanting between the trees enter the frame, you will have an image that conveys the stillness proper to a mountain shrine. In the beech forest, line the trunks up as vertical lines across the frame and shoot looking upward to bring out the height.

When photographing the view, placing a branch or part of the shrine building in the foreground as a "frame" gives depth to a distant scene that can otherwise look flat. On foggy days visibility is poor, but it is also a chance to capture dreamlike photographs of the shrine buildings and trees floating in the mist.

Please refrain from photographing the interior of the halls or prayer rituals in progress, and take care not to include other worshippers in your shots. For questions such as whether tripods are permitted, follow the signage on site.

Nearby Places to Stop

Because Nishiteru Shrine is deep in the mountains, planning it together with the foothills makes for a rewarding day.

A little way down from the summit is Otakiji, the twentieth temple of the Shikoku Bekkaku Twenty Sacred Sites, a temple that has shared with Nishiteru Shrine a history of deities and buddhas worshipped together. The very sight of a shrine and a temple surviving close to one another conveys to this day the form that faith has taken on this mountain.

Once down in the foothills, head for the Udatsu townscape in Wakimachi. Selected as a nationally designated Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, this street lined with udatsu, the firebreak walls raised between houses, offers a sense of the depth of everyday human life quite unlike the stillness of the mountaintop.

If you visit in summer, the Anabuki River, which Mima City introduces as the clearest river in Japan, is another candidate. Being able to link three faces of the region in a single day, a mountaintop shrine, a historic townscape, and a crystal-clear river, is the particular appeal of this area.

Access and Essentials

• Location: 672 Nishiotani, Wakimachi, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture (postal code 779-3638)
• By car: a road runs up to near the summit of Mount Otaki, but it is narrow and winding, so take great care while driving
• Access by public transport is difficult, so coming by car is the norm
• The elevation is high and temperatures are on the low side, so an extra layer is reassuring
• Check the official sources or on-site information for details of worship and goshuin seals

Access and Basic Information

• Location: Nishiotani, Wakimachi, Mima city, Tokushima
• By car: A road reaches near the summit of Mount Otaki, but it is narrow and winding, so real care is needed when driving
• Access by public transport is difficult, so coming by car is the norm
• Because the elevation is high and temperatures are low, an extra layer is reassuring
• Confirm the details of worship and the shrine stamp through official or on site sources

Practical Travel Notes

• Best season: Fresh greenery from spring into early summer and autumn leaves are beautiful, and on clear days you can see far into the distance. Winter is bitterly cold, so beware of frozen roads too
• Time of day: Given the mountain driving, a visit in bright daylight is reassuring. Dusk, when the air clears, offers exceptional views, but leave time to spare for the descent
• Time needed: Allow about thirty minutes to one hour to enjoy the worship and the views, apart from the drive up and down
• Nearby real spots: The Udatsu townscape of Wakimachi at the foot, a preservation district of historic buildings, is a leading place to stop. Mount Otaki is also a base for climbing and hiking
• Budget: The visit itself involves little cost. As it lies in the mountains, prepare drinks and warm clothing in advance

A Quick Tip

You can drive up to near the summit, but the road stays narrow and winding, so drive with care. After your visit, take time to savor the view from the mountaintop and breathe the clear air of the sanctuary of the moon god deep into your chest. Touring together with the townscape of Wakimachi at the foot is also recommended.

📚 Sources

This article draws mainly on the history and worship guidance published officially or on site by Nishiteru Shrine, and the sightseeing information of Mima city and Tokushima Prefecture on Mount Otaki and the udatsu townscape of Wakimachi. It also reflects the interpretive signs in the precinct and around Mount Otaki. Worship and stamp information and mountain road conditions may change, so please confirm with the official information of Nishiteru Shrine or Mima city before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: About thirty minutes to one hour to enjoy worship and the views, apart from the drive up and down.
• What to bring: An extra layer or warm clothing, as the elevation is high and temperatures low.
• How to get around: Public transport access is difficult, so coming by car is basic.
• Time of day: Given the mountain driving, a visit in bright daylight is reassuring.
• Note: A narrow, winding mountain road continues near the summit, so drive with care; beware of frozen roads in winter.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Location: 672 Nishiotani, Wakimachi, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture (postcode 779-3638) / The shrine stands on the summit of Mount Otaki (elevation 946 metres)
• Telephone: 0883-52-4928
• Payment: The amulet office accepts cashless payment including PayPay, Rakuten Pay, WAON and credit cards
• Annual events: The spring Daidai Kagura prayer festival is held every year on the fourth Sunday of April

* Worship hours, the opening hours of the amulet office, admission fees and parking are not officially published.

(Sources: Nishiteru Shrine, Shrine of the Moon Deity, official website; Mima City tourism site)