Tanabe's Benkei and Toto Shrine: The Kumano Land Where a Hero of the Genpei War Was Born

Tanabe City, Wakayama, is known as the hometown of the famed hero Musashibo Benkei. A warrior monk of the late Heian to early Kamakura period who served as the loyal retainer of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, Benkei remains popular for his demon-like strength and strong sense of chivalry. Said to have been born by the Kumano seaside, he has several associated sites in Tanabe. In this historic town that flourished as a post town on the Kumano pilgrimage, you can trace a story of legend and faith.

Highlights: Tokei Shrine, Where the Genpei Crossroads Was Decided

Tokei Shrine in central Tanabe City is a venerable shrine registered as an associated site of the UNESCO World Heritage Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. A legend tells that during the Genpei War of 1184, Kumano Betto Tanzo, who led the Kumano naval forces, divined which side to support, Minamoto or Taira, by cockfighting. When the red rooster (Minamoto) defeated the white rooster (Taira), the Kumano naval forces sided with the Minamoto, which is said to have influenced the outcome of the Battle of Dan-no-ura. Tanzo is also said to be Benkei's father, and statues of Benkei and Tanzo stand side by side in the precincts. Because it invites the deities of the Kumano Sanzan, it is also called Imakumano, and worshipping here on a Kumano pilgrimage was said to bring the same merit as touring all three shrines.

Sites Associated with Benkei

Within Tanabe City are places said to be Benkei's birth-bath well and his birthplace. A spirited Benkei statue stands in front of JR Kii-Tanabe Station, beloved as Tanabe's symbol. Strolling the town while tracing Benkei's footsteps is enjoyable, and each autumn the Benkei Festival, named for him, is held with warrior processions and much liveliness.

Enjoying the Seasons

As the starting point of the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo, Tanabe serves as a base for old-road walking in the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn foliage. In winter the premium fish kue comes into season, the time for hot-pot dishes. The Tanabe and neighboring Minabe area is a major producer of Nanko plum, and in early spring (around February) when the plum blossoms open, the groves turn white. Seasonal festivals such as the autumn Benkei Festival and Tokei Shrine's summer Tanabe Festival are also travel pleasures.

Access and Basic Information

By public transport, JR Kii-Tanabe Station on the Kisei Main Line (Kinokuni Line) is the gateway, about 10 minutes on foot from the station to Tokei Shrine. From the Osaka area, the limited express Kuroshio takes roughly two hours from Shin-Osaka. Tanabe is the starting point for walking the Nakahechi route and a transport hub toward Shirahama, Ryujin Onsen, and Kumano Hongu. The town center is fairly compact, and the area around the station can be toured on foot.

Practical Travel Notes

Tanabe is a gateway town to the Kumano Sanzan and the Nakahechi route, convenient as a base for a night before or after old-road walking. Tokei Shrine is in the town center, within walking distance of the station for a casual visit. Tanabe's nightlife offers a dining district befitting the castle town of Benkei, where local izakaya serve winter kue dishes (hot pot and sashimi) along with fresh fish from nearby waters. Pickled plums, plum juice, and plum sweets made from Nanko plum are popular easy souvenirs. Buses toward the Nakahechi route are infrequent, so if planning an old-road walk, check the timetable in advance.

A Word of Advice

Tanabe is less a glamorous tourist spot than a town of stories where the Benkei legend and Kumano faith live on. Reflecting at Tokei Shrine on the legend that became a Genpei crossroads and enjoying a photo with the Benkei statue suits a historical stroll here. As it is also the starting point of the Nakahechi route leading to Kumano Hongu Taisha, visiting together with a plan for old-road walking is recommended. In the evening, savor the local seafood and famous plums to build up energy for your journey.

📚 Sources

This article draws on official information from Tokei Jinja, information from Tanabe City and its tourism association, and on-site signs at Benkei-related sites and the Benkei statue. Tokei Jinja is registered as an associated asset of the Kii Mountain Range World Heritage site. The dates of the Benkei Festival and Tanabe Festival, bus timetables, and eatery details may change, so please confirm with the official information of each shrine, temple, or tourism association before your visit.

Visitor Checklist

• How to get around: Tokei Jinja is in the city center, about a 10-minute walk from Kii-Tanabe Station for an easy visit
• Access note: Tanabe is the starting point of the Nakahechi route and a transport hub toward Shirahama, Ryujin Onsen, and Kumano Hongu
• Planning tip: It is convenient as a base for nights before and after an old-road walk; buses toward Nakahechi are limited, so check the timetable
• Taste tip: Enjoy winter kue dishes, local seafood, and Nankoume plum products such as pickled plums and plum sweets
• Seasonal note: Seasonal festivals such as the Benkei Festival in autumn and Tanabe Festival in summer add to the trip

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Location: 1-1 Toyo, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
• Access (by train): Get off at "Kii-Tanabe Station" on the JR Kinokuni Line, then a 5-minute walk (about 500 meters from the station)
• Access (by car): 10 minutes by car from the "Nanki-Tanabe IC"
• Inquiries: 0739-22-0155 (Tokei Shrine)
• World Heritage: The "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range" were inscribed as a World Heritage site on July 7, 2004 (Heisei 16). On October 24, 2016 (Heisei 28), 22 additional properties within Wakayama Prefecture were added, and within Tanabe City the Kumano pilgrimage route Nakahechi (Hokogoshi, Nagaozaka, Shiomitogegoe and Akagigoe) and the Kumano pilgrimage route Ohechi (Tokei Shrine) newly became World Heritage
• Founding (according to shrine tradition): Founded in 419, the 8th year of the reign of Emperor Ingyo. In the era of Emperor Shirakawa (1073-1087) the three Kumano Gongen deities were enshrined here, and it is said that pilgrims to Kumano would worship at Tokei Shrine and pray for their wishes to be granted
• Shrine buildings: A valuable group of buildings that preserves the same arrangement as Kumano Hongu Taisha had before it was washed away by a flooding river, with the main hall and six other buildings standing in a straight line
• The tale of the cockfight: In 1184 (the first year of the Genryaku era), Tanzo, the superintendent of Kumano, is said to have divined the outcome by pitting seven red and white cocks against each other, with red representing the Taira clan and white the Minamoto clan; because white (the Minamoto) won, he had the Kumano navy side with the Minamoto. Statues of Tanzo and Benkei stand in the precincts
• Annual festival: The Tanabe Festival (July 24 and 25 every year)

Note: The visiting hours, whether an admission fee is charged, and parking (number of spaces and fees) are not published in the official information of Tanabe City or Wakayama Prefecture. (Sources: Tanabe City official site; Wakayama Prefecture official tourism site "Tokei Shrine"; Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau official site)