Kakunodate Samurai Houses and Weeping Cherry Blossoms: Spring in the "Little Kyoto of Michinoku"

Kakunodate in Semboku City, Akita Prefecture, is a castle town where many samurai residences with black plank walls still remain, earning it the name "Little Kyoto of Michinoku." When spring comes, the crimson weeping cherries that adorn the samurai residences and the Somei Yoshino along the Hinokinai River burst into bloom, and the whole town is wrapped in brilliant cherry-blossom pink. The atmospheric spring scenery woven from samurai residences and cherry blossoms makes this one of Tohoku's finest blossom sites.

The Castle Town of Kakunodate

Kakunodate is a castle town laid out in the early Edo period by the Ashina clan. The land divisions of that time survive exactly as they were, and the street of samurai residences lined with black plank walls is like a historical picture scroll. It preserves to this day a dignified appearance worthy of the name "Little Kyoto of Michinoku." Many of the samurai residences are open to the public, where you can view the life of the samurai and their beautiful gardens.

The Weeping Cherries of the Samurai Residences

The stars of Kakunodate's cherry blossoms are the weeping cherries that bloom over the black plank walls of the samurai residences. Of about 400 weeping cherry trees, 162 are designated a National Natural Monument as the "Weeping Cherries of Kakunodate," and the sight of the crimson flowers set off against the black walls is a beauty all its own. It is said that in 1664, when a daughter of the Sanjonishi family, court nobles of Kyoto, married into the second generation of the Satake Kita house, saplings included in her bridal trousseau became the parent trees. Walking beneath the drooping branches, you can feel as though you have slipped back in time to the elegant Edo period.

The Cherry-Lined Bank of the Hinokinai River

Along the embankment of the Hinokinai River, which flows through the town, rows of Somei Yoshino cherries continue for about 2km. At full bloom the tunnel of blossom along the river is overwhelming. It is a superb view selected as one of Japan's "100 Best Cherry Blossom Sites." The charm of Kakunodate is being able to enjoy two kinds of cherry blossom at once - the weeping cherries of the samurai district and the Somei Yoshino of the Hinokinai River bank. During the Kakunodate Cherry Blossom Festival (usually April 20 to May 5), the illumination of the samurai residence street and the lighting along the Hinokinai River bank let you enjoy the blossoms at night as well.

Tips for Photographing the Blossoms

If you want to capture Kakunodate's cherry blossoms strikingly, the basic idea is to be conscious of the contrast between the black plank walls and the weeping cherries. Placing the heavy black wall in the background and composing so that the crimson flower clusters hang down into the frame gives you a shot that is distinctly Kakunodate, unlike any other blossom site. The samurai residence street is particularly crowded during the day, so early morning, when there are few people about, is the time to choose your composition calmly. The slanting morning light makes the petals translucent and captures even the texture of the damp earth and the plank walls. On the Hinokinai River bank, meanwhile, besides aiming for the run of cherry trees stretching about 2km from the top of the embankment, you can also go down the bank and layer the water surface with the blossoms. During the cherry blossom festival there is an illumination on the samurai residence street and lighting along the Hinokinai River bank, so aiming for the "blue hour" just after sunset, while blue still remains in the sky, lets you capture both the night blossoms and the townscape. Note that, to ensure safety, visitors are asked to refrain from flying drones during the period. If you use a tripod, choose a place where you will not obstruct passers-by, and keep it brief when it is crowded.

Nearby Spots to Visit Along with the Blossoms

Along Kakunodate's samurai residence street, residences and memorial museums open to the public are dotted about. The Kakunodate Kabazaiku Densho-kan, where you can encounter the local craft of "kabazaiku" (cherry-bark work) handed down in Kakunodate, and the Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum are also within walking distance. Walking the town while viewing the blossoms and stopping partway to step up into a residence's tatami room and look at the garden - this is a castle town that suits such a leisurely use of time. Go a little further and you will find Lake Tazawa, known for its lapis-blue surface, and the Dakigaeri Gorge, part of the Tazawako-Dakigaeri Prefectural Natural Park. In the gorge, the "Mikaeri Falls" is the highlight, an area where the deep blue-green mountain stream contrasts beautifully with fresh greenery and autumn colours. However, the gorge walking trail may be closed due to construction work or weather conditions, and in some years bear sightings are reported. Be sure to check the latest notices published by Semboku City before setting out.

The Seasons of Kakunodate After the Blossoms

Kakunodate is not a town for cherry blossoms alone. In early summer deep green sets off the black plank walls and the sound of cicadas echoes through the residence quarter. In August the "Sasara Dance of Kakunodate" is performed as an okuri-bon (Bon send-off) event. The Sasara Dance is an event with about 400 years of history, said to have taken root here after being performed to comfort Lord Satake Yoshinobu along the road when the Satake Kita house was transferred from Hitachi to Akita. From September 7 to 9 the "Kakunodate Festival" is held, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage element and a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, in which the "yama-buttsuke" clashes between hikiyama floats fill the town with excitement. In autumn the maples of the samurai district blaze against the black walls, and in winter snow piles on the walls and the whole town falls as silent as an ink painting. The depth of this castle town lies in the completely different face it shows in each season. The Lake Tazawa area is dotted with a wide variety of hot-spring villages, and the Nishiki area spreads out with satoyama scenery like an archetypal Japanese landscape. If you visit once in cherry blossom season and take to Kakunodate, try putting together a trip in another season next time, extending as far as Lake Tazawa and Nishiki. The same black-walled streets should feel like an entirely different place.

Best Season and Access

The blossoms are usually at their best from late April to early May, flowering somewhat late as befits Tohoku. Because the flowering time varies greatly from year to year, check the blooming information announced by Semboku City and the Tazawako-Kakunodate Tourism Association before you go. For access, walk from Kakunodate Station on the JR and Akita Shinkansen lines; it is about 20 minutes to the samurai residence street. Combining your visit with nearby sights such as Lake Tazawa makes for a trip that lets you savour spring in Michinoku.

Practical Information

• Best season: Usually around late April. As the timing of flowering and full bloom varies greatly from year to year, check the blooming information from Semboku City and the Tazawako-Kakunodate Tourism Association.
• Event period: The Kakunodate Cherry Blossom Festival is usually held from April 20 to May 5. During the period the samurai residence street is illuminated (from sunset until around 22:30) and the Somei Yoshino on the Hinokinai River bank are lit (from sunset until around 24:00), so you can enjoy the blossoms at night as well.
• Fees: Strolling the samurai residence street and the Hinokinai River bank is free (separate admission fees apply for visiting each samurai residence and memorial museum; for example, admission to special exhibitions at the Kakunodate Kabazaiku Densho-kan and the Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum is 300 yen).
• Access: About 20 minutes on foot from JR Kakunodate Station to the samurai residence street.
• Clothing and equipment: Late April in Tohoku still brings chilly mornings and evenings. Bring a jacket, and dress especially warmly for viewing the blossoms at night.

*Of the weeping cherries on the samurai residence street, 162 trees are designated a National Natural Monument as the "Weeping Cherries of Kakunodate," and the roughly 2km of cherry trees along the Hinokinai River bank are designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty. Please avoid breaking branches, damaging trunks or roots, or entering restricted areas.* *Traffic restrictions are in force in the surrounding area during the cherry blossom festival. Also, to ensure safety, visitors are asked to refrain from flying drones during the period.*

📚 Sources

Semboku City official website, "Kakunodate Cherry Blossom Festival" and "Weeping Cherries of Kakunodate (National Natural Monument)" / Tazawako-Kakunodate Tourism Association official website / Japan Cherry Blossom Association, list of "100 Best Cherry Blossom Sites"

*The above is based on information published by each facility and local government. Hours and fees are subject to change, so please check official sources before visiting.*