Obama City: Ancient Food Capital of Gotsukuni and Historic Wakasa Old Town

Obama City, the central city of Fukui's Wakasa region, flourished from the days of Nara and Heian as the "food-offering province" that presented rich seafood to the imperial court. Fresh fish and salt caught in Wakasa were carried to the capital of Kyoto, laying the foundation of Japan's food culture. Still strongly retaining the charm of a flavorful port town nurtured by sea and history, it is a town well suited to a calm, grown-up journey.

Highlights

Obama is a historic town also called the "Nara by the Sea" for its many surviving old temples and shrines. Venerable temples and shrines are scattered here, including Wakasahiko Shrine and Wakasahime Shrine, the first and second shrines of Wakasa. Among them, at Myotsuji Temple both the main hall and the three-story pagoda are designated national treasures, the only national-treasure structures in Fukui Prefecture. The beautiful three-story pagoda built in the mid-Kamakura period is a must-see. As a place where the Buddhist culture of the capital blossomed in the provinces, including Mantokuji Temple known for its beautiful garden, it is wrapped in a quiet, solemn atmosphere. The abundance of temples famous for autumn foliage is another appeal.

The "Saba Kaido" (Wakasa Road) leading from Wakasa to Kyoto is a historic road that carried marine products, including Wakasa mackerel, to the capital. Lightly salted mackerel is said to have reached just the right saltiness while carried on foot, and this is the origin of the specialties grilled mackerel and mackerel sushi. At Obama, the start of the road, that food culture lives on, and you can enjoy thick grilled mackerel and heshiko (rice-bran-pickled mackerel). In the old streets of Sanchomachi, you can enjoy the atmosphere of a teahouse district lined with lattice doors.

Enjoying the Seasons

Autumn to winter, when seafood is delicious, is best for gourmet. In winter, Echizen crab and Wakasa pufferfish come into season, perfect for a gourmet trip. Touring temples and shrines is especially beautiful and recommended in the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn foliage. To visit quiet old temples, weekdays or morning hours with fewer tourists let you savor the solemn atmosphere more deeply.

Access and Essentials

Obama Station on the JR Obama Line is the base. By car it is close from Obama IC on the Maizuru-Wakasa Expressway, with good access from the Kansai direction. Because temples and shrines such as Myotsuji are a little away from the station, using a car, bus, or taxi is convenient. Admission to each temple and shrine is a guide of a few hundred yen, and viewing hours and closed days differ by site. It is reassuring to check in advance whether viewing is possible and the hours, including for the national-treasure Myotsuji.

Practical Travel Notes

The best season is winter for gourmet, or the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn foliage for touring temples and shrines. A town walk in Obama and a stroll through Sanchomachi take about half a day, and adding temple visits and gourmet, a full day to an overnight is recommended. Nearby sights include the Wakasa Rainbow Line overlooking Mikata Goko, the beaches of Wakasa Bay, and the post town of Kumagawa-juku. As for budget, temple viewing with a town walk and a mackerel lunch is reasonable, and plan a suitable budget when combining winter crab and pufferfish or a stay.

A Word of Advice

Obama is a town well suited to a grown-up journey that savors "history and food" rather than spectacular scenery. The three-story pagoda of the national-treasure Myotsuji and the solemn atmosphere of venerable temples and shrines are best visited in quiet hours. In comfortable shoes, be sure to also enjoy the grilled mackerel and mackerel sushi tied to the Saba Kaido. Enjoy a journey that leisurely savors the history and food culture of the food-offering province of Wakasa.

📚 Sources

The information here is based mainly on the public guidance from Obama city and the Wakasa Obama tourism association, together with the guidance of temples and shrines such as Myotsuji. The old temples and shrines called the Nara by the Sea, Myotsuji whose main hall and three-story pagoda are both national treasures (the only national-treasure buildings in Fukui), the Saba Kaido and grilled-mackerel food culture, and the old townscape Sancho-machi are also useful references. Because the admission, hours, and closed days of each temple and shrine differ, please confirm the latest details on each temple, shrine, or Obama city official information before you visit.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time needed: About half a day for a town walk in Obama and a stroll through Sancho-machi, or a full day to an overnight stay if you add temple and shrine visits and food.
• What to bring: Use a car, bus, or taxi, as the temples and shrines are a little far from the station. Wear comfortable walking shoes for the grounds, and have small cash ready for admission.
• Suggested route: After quietly visiting Myotsuji with its national-treasure three-story pagoda and other historic temples and shrines, walk the old townscape of Sancho-machi and enjoy the grilled mackerel and mackerel sushi of the Saba Kaido, then combine your trip with the Wakasa Rainbow Line and the Kumagawa-juku post town.