Jozankei Onsen: Scenic Hot Spring Valley Close to Sapporo with Stunning Autumn Foliage

Inns lined up along the gorge of the Toyohira River, steam rising from the surface of the water, and brilliant autumn foliage dyeing the mountains red and yellow - Jozankei Onsen in Sapporo, Hokkaido, is a full-fledged hot-spring village known as "Sapporo's inner parlour." It is hard to believe that a quiet gorge wrapped in such deep nature lies only about an hour by car from the major city of Sapporo, and here you can savour the scenery of all four seasons together with high-quality hot-spring water.

Sapporo's Inner Parlour

The history of Jozankei Onsen began in 1866 (Keio 2), when the ascetic monk Miizumi Jozan encountered the hot spring source with the guidance of the Ainu people. The area was named "Jozankei" after the achievements of Jozan, who laid the foundations of the hot spring. Close to central Sapporo and easy to visit either as a day trip or for an overnight stay, it has long been loved by local people and visitors alike. Inns and hotels stand side by side in the gorge of the upper Toyohira River.

High-Quality Hot Springs

The water at Jozankei is a sodium chloride spring (neutral, hypotonic, high-temperature), colourless and transparent with a mellow saltiness. When you bathe, salt clings to the skin and prevents perspiration from evaporating, warming you from the core of your body. The volume of water is abundant too. The open-air baths where you soak while gazing at the gorge scenery are exceptional, and footbaths and hand baths are dotted around the hot-spring town so you can enjoy the water casually while strolling. This is also a town where the legend of the kappa (water sprite) survives, with charming kappa statues here and there in the streets.

Autumn Colours in the Gorge

Jozankei's greatest highlight is the autumn foliage. The whole gorge created by the Toyohira River blazes with colour from rowan, maple and other trees, a beauty that ranks among the very best in Hokkaido. The Futami Suspension Bridge and the area around "Sapporo Lake" at the Jozankei Dam are superb foliage spots. In the Futami Park and Futami Suspension Bridge area, the night-time digital art event "JOZANKEI NATURE LUMINARIE" is held, but this is an event exclusively for guests staying in the Jozankei area, with admission tickets distributed by the accommodation facilities.

Best Season and Access

The autumn colours are at their best from mid to late October. Winter, when you can enjoy a bath with a snow view, and early summer with its fresh greenery are also recommended. For access, it is about 50 minutes to an hour by car from central Sapporo, about 1 hour 20 minutes on the Jotetsu route bus, or about 1 hour on the direct "Kappa Liner" bus. From Makomanai Station on the Namboku subway line it is about 47 minutes by Jotetsu bus. Staying a night at the end of a Sapporo trip to enjoy the famous waters and the beauty of the gorge is the standard plan.

Practical Information

• Best season: The Jozankei Tourism Association describes it as "every October, when the autumn colours arrive." There are differences by area: the Sapporo Kokusai Ski Resort sees colour from late September to mid-October (running a limited-period "autumn foliage gondola"), while the foothills of Hakkenzan start to turn around mid-October. In October the "Five Great Autumn Colours" event links five foliage areas by shuttle bus.
• Event period and illumination: "JOZANKEI NATURE LUMINARIE," staged in the Futami Park and Futami Suspension Bridge area, is an event exclusively for guests staying in the Jozankei area (admission tickets are distributed at accommodation facilities). Lighting hours are 19:00-21:30 from June to August and 18:00-21:30 from September to October, with last entry at 21:15. The event period changes from year to year, so check the official website. Note that the "Futami footbath" can be used by anyone even during the event hours.
• Fees: The hybrid electric bus at Hoheikyo Dam costs 1,000 yen return / 600 yen one way for adults (junior high school age and above), 500 yen return / 300 yen one way for children, 900 yen return for seniors (65 and over), and is free for pre-school children. It runs from 8:45 to 16:00 (last uphill service 15:30).
• Access: About 50 minutes to an hour by car from central Sapporo (Prefectural Route 18 to National Route 230). By bus, about 1 hour 20 minutes on the Jotetsu route bus, or about 1 hour on the "Kappa Liner" direct bus to Jozankei Onsen (Jotetsu, which operates it, states that all services are reservation-only; book from one month in advance until 17:00 the day before, and same-day boarding is possible if seats remain). About 47 minutes by Jotetsu bus from Makomanai Station on the Namboku subway line (connections at Makomanai Station may not always work out because of the timetable). From New Chitose Airport it is about 90 minutes by car or fixed-fare taxi.
• Hoheikyo Dam: To conserve the natural environment of the national park, private cars cannot go beyond the dam entrance to the park area, and visitors transfer to the hybrid electric bus. Sightseeing water releases are carried out every day. The walking trails are sometimes closed, so check the latest information on the official website in advance.
• Clothing and equipment: The nature trail "Futami Jozan no Michi" has a lot of earth, gravel and steps, so wear flat-soled trainers you are used to walking in. In winter the surface freezes, so non-slip winter boots and warm clothing are needed.
• Notes on using the hot springs: The water is a sodium chloride spring (neutral, hypotonic, high-temperature), colourless and transparent with a mellow saltiness, a hot spring that warms you from the core. Avoid bathing immediately after drinking alcohol or eating, refrain from long soaks, take fluids frequently, and be careful of feeling faint or overheated. Anyone with a chronic condition or who is not feeling well should consult their doctor or the accommodation before bathing.

*Jozankei lies within Shikotsu-Toya National Park. You may encounter wild animals on the walking trails, so do not approach them unnecessarily and do not feed them. Always follow notices about closures and safety warnings.*

📚 Sources

Jozankei Tourism Association official website, "About Jozankei (Shikotsu-Toya National Park, spring quality, history)," "Autumn dyed in brocade," "Access," "JOZANKEI NATURE LUMINARIE" / Hoheikyo Electric Bus official website, "Fare table," "Today's operation"

*The above is based on information published by each facility and local government. Hours and fees are subject to change, so please check official sources before visiting.*