Setouchi Triennale: The Seto Inland Sea Art Festival Every Three Years

The Setouchi Triennale (commonly called "Setogei") is a large-scale contemporary art festival that attracts worldwide attention, held once every three years across the islands and port towns of the Seto Inland Sea in Kagawa and Okayama. Its greatest appeal is that entire islands are treated as museums, so that while touring artworks fused with nature, daily life and history you can experience the beautiful scenery of the Setouchi region itself.

The Philosophy and History of Setogei

The Setouchi Triennale was first held in 2010. It began as an initiative to restore vitality to islands facing depopulation and ageing, under the banner of the "restoration of the sea." Renowned artists from Japan and abroad have stayed on the islands to create works, producing pieces unique to each place using empty houses, disused buildings and terraced rice fields as their stage. Visitor numbers have grown with each edition, and it has now grown into a major event that draws art lovers from all over the world.

Highlights of Naoshima and Teshima

At the centre of the festival is Naoshima, famous as "the art island." Contemporary art is dotted across the whole island, from Yayoi Kusama's yellow pumpkin sculpture to the Chichu Art Museum designed by Tadao Ando.

Teshima is home to the Teshima Art Museum, known for a space like a drop of water, where original architecture that takes in natural light and wind fascinates visitors. Elsewhere too, on distinctive islands such as Megijima, Ogijima and Shodoshima, you can encounter a wide variety of works.

The Philosophy of the "Restoration of the Sea"

The theme running through Setogei is the "restoration of the sea." The official website states its aim of restoring vitality to the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, where beautiful nature and human beings have intersected and resonated together, so that Setouchi may become a "sea of hope" for every region on earth.

As concrete guidelines, the official website sets out six concepts: "art and architecture" to discover the characteristics of the region; "folklore and daily life" to pursue regeneration by drawing on the region's own culture; "exchange" to work together across generations, regions and genres; "wisdom of the world" to create places where many fields come together; "the future" to take part in nurturing the next generation; and "creating ties," connecting the islands to one another through year-round activity. You can see that it is designed not as a one-off exhibition but as an initiative to carry island life itself into the future. Rather than simply "viewing" the works, boarding boats, climbing slopes and passing island residents on the way - it makes good sense to think of Setogei as including even that time of movement and encounter.

Getting to Know the Character of Each Island

Megijima: 20 minutes by boat from Takamatsu Port. An island of 2.62 square kilometres, 7.8 kilometres in circumference, with a population of about 100. About 100 years ago a local historian discovered a great cave on the island and put forward the theory that it was Onigashima, the demons' island of the "Momotaro" legend. It can still be visited today as the "Onigashima Great Cave," and unique displays imagining the life of the demons line the cool interior. In the settlement, stone walls 3 to 4 metres high called "ote," built to protect the houses from the strong winter winds, create a distinctive landscape. From the observation point on the summit of Washigamine you can see 360 degrees across the Seto Inland Sea, and in spring several thousand cherry trees dye the island pink. The beach has been selected as one of Japan's "100 Best Bathing Beaches."

Ogijima: An island located 1 kilometre north of Megijima, 1.34 square kilometres in area, 5.0 kilometres in circumference, with a population of about 160. Houses stand shoulder to shoulder along steep, maze-like winding slopes, creating a landscape in which the alleys themselves feel like part of the artwork. Although the walking distances are short, there are considerable changes in elevation, so comfortable shoes are essential.

Inujima: About 2.5 kilometres south of Hoden Port in Okayama City, Okayama Prefecture, about 10 minutes by scheduled boat. A small island of 0.54 square kilometres, 3.6 kilometres in circumference, with a population of about 30.

Oshima: About 8 kilometres northeast of Takamatsu Port, 0.62 square kilometres in area and 7.2 kilometres in circumference. The official website describes it as "an island where you learn the history of Hansen's disease and carry it into the future." The national Hansen's disease sanatorium Oshima Seishoen was established in 1909 (renamed to its current name in 1946), and patients were forcibly isolated there for about 90 years. Following the abolition of the "Leprosy Prevention Law" in 1996 and the enactment of the "Hansen's Disease Problem Basic Law" in 2008, the island now provides support for the residents' care and awareness activities to promote correct understanding of Hansen's disease. A white line is drawn along the centre of the island's roads to serve as a walking guide for people with low vision, and music plays from loudspeakers. In the old pine grove stands the "Bohyo no Matsu" pine associated with the Heike, and "Cafe Shiyoru" inside the community exchange hall serves products made with locally grown plums and citrus. When visiting, the official website advises using the official tours or guided tours by the festival supporters "Koebi-tai."

Tips for Island Hopping

The hard part of Setogei is not the number of works but the boat timetable. Services connecting the islands are limited in number, and missing one throws your plans into disarray. First fix the boat times, then work backwards to narrow down "the works you will see on that island" - building your plan in this order is the golden rule. Rather than greedily cramming three or four islands into one day, limiting yourself to two and walking slowly lets you taste the atmosphere of the islands.

Getting around within the islands is basically on foot or by bicycle, and there are plenty of slopes and unpaved paths. Comfortable shoes, a hat to keep off the sun, and something to drink are essential. There are few shops on the islands, so it is reassuring to research where to have lunch in advance. Opening times and closed days differ for each work, so be sure to check the "artwork opening schedule" on the official website before setting out.

Best Season and Access

The festival is held in three sessions, spring, summer and autumn. Even outside the sessions the permanent works on Naoshima and Teshima can be viewed, and island hopping in the mild climate of spring or autumn is especially recommended.

For access, cross to each island by ferry from Takamatsu Port near JR Takamatsu Station or from Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture. Boat services differ from island to island, so advance planning is the key to a comfortable island tour.

Practical Information

• Cycle: Held once every three years. The most recent was the Setouchi Triennale 2025 (spring session April 18 to May 25 / summer session August 1 to August 31 / autumn session October 3 to November 9), and the next is scheduled for 2028 (session dates not yet announced)
• How to enjoy it outside the sessions: Outside the sessions, works are regularly opened as "ART SETOUCHI," with opening days set for each island and area. Check the opening days in the "artwork opening schedule" on the official website before visiting. Off-season events and official tours are also held
• Venues (17 areas in total in 2025): [All sessions] Naoshima / Teshima / Megijima / Ogijima / Shodoshima / Oshima / Inujima / Takamatsu Port area / Uno Port area. [Spring session] Seto Ohashi area. [Summer session] Shido-Tsuda area / Hiketa area. [Autumn session] Honjima / Takamijima / Awashima / Ibukijima / Utazu area
• Access: Cross to each island by ferry from Takamatsu Port (near JR Takamatsu Station) or from Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture. Because the number of boat services differs by island, advance planning is essential
• Passport (2025 record): The all-season passport cost 3,800 yen with a special early discount / 4,300 yen in advance / 5,500 yen at standard price, allowing each work to be viewed once. Separate fees are required for the Chichu Art Museum, Teshima Art Museum and others
• Theme: "Restoration of the sea." The general director is Fram Kitagawa

*The session dates and passport prices for 2028 have not yet been announced. Opening times differ for each work, so be sure to check the artwork opening schedule on the official website.*

📚 Sources

Setouchi Triennale official website, Kagawa Prefecture official website

*The above is based on information published by each facility and local government. Hours and fees are subject to change, so please check official sources before visiting.*