Matsushima and Basho: The Truth Behind "Matsushima ya, Ah Matsushima ya"

The Mystery of Matsushima and Basho

Matsushima Bay in Matsushima, Miyagi, is one of Japan's Three Views, dotted with about 260 islands. It is also known as a scenic spot visited by Matsuo Basho on his journey recorded in Oku no Hosomichi. (For the castle town of Iwadeyama in the same Osaki area, see the separate article on the Iwadeyama castle town, birthplace of Date Masamune.)

The bay is famous for the verse "Matsushima ya, ah Matsushima ya, Matsushima ya," yet this verse was not actually composed by Matsuo Basho. It is attributed to Tawarabo, a late-Edo comic-verse poet, and is thought to have spread through confusion with the anecdote that Basho was left speechless by the beauty. Basho himself left no Matsushima verse in Oku no Hosomichi; instead the diary records his disciple Kawai Sora's verse, "Matsushima ya, tsuru ni mi wo kare, hototogisu."

Highlights

• Matsushima Bay Cruise: Sightseeing boat viewing about 260 islands from the sea (approx. 50 minutes)
• Godaido Hall: Important Cultural Property rebuilt by Date Masamune; accessed via a see-through bridge and a symbol of Matsushima
• Zuiganji Temple: Tohoku's finest temple constructed by Date Masamune; National Treasure main hall and kitchen
• Kanrantei Pavilion: A building tied to the Date clan; panoramic view of Matsushima while enjoying matcha
• Fukuura Island: Natural island reached by the vermilion Fukuura Bridge, with maintained walking trails
• Ojima Island: An island connected with Basho, long a sacred training ground for monks, where you can follow the Oku no Hosomichi trail

Food

• Grilled Oysters: Local Matsushima oysters grilled over charcoal (in season winter to spring)
• Anago Don: Rice bowl with locally harvested conger eel
• Sasa Kamaboko: Miyagi specialty fish cake

Access and Practical Information

• Alight at JR Senseki Line Matsushima-Kaigan Station (about 40 minutes from Sendai). Godaido Hall and the cruise pier are a short walk away.
• JR Tohoku Main Line Matsushima Station is also usable and closer to Zuiganji. It is separate from Matsushima-Kaigan Station, so choose according to your destination.
• By car, the nearest exit is Matsushima-Kaigan IC on the Sanriku Expressway, with paid parking nearby.
• Sightseeing boats also run from Marine Gate Shiogama in Shiogama to Matsushima, letting you tour the scenery by sea.
• Fees and hours for the cruise, Zuiganji, and Kanrantei may change, so checking official information is recommended.

Practical Travel Notes

• Best season and time: Winter is best for oysters (roughly October to March), while spring greenery and autumn foliage each have their charm. The area is also known for moon viewing around the harvest moon. Daytime is crowded, so early morning or evening is calmer.
• Time needed: Godaido, Zuiganji, and a cruise take half a day; adding Ojima or Fukuura and a meal fills a full day.
• Avoiding crowds: Weekends and holidays are especially busy around the station and cruise pier. Visiting Zuiganji right after opening or a seaside walk at dusk are good options.
• Nearby real spots: You can extend to Shiogama Shrine and Shiogama market, the beaches of Shichigahama, and central Sendai. The boat linking Shiogama and Matsushima is also a classic route.
• Budget sense: Combining paid facilities such as the cruise fare and Zuiganji admission calls for a modest budget.

A Word of Advice

Since the area is busy with tourists, early morning or evening visits offer a more relaxed atmosphere. To follow Basho's footsteps, walk around Ojima and Zuiganji, or take the atmospheric boat from neighboring Shiogama across to Matsushima.

📚 Sources

This article is edited from publicly available sightseeing guidance published by the town of Matsushima and Miyagi Prefecture, public information on Godaido Hall, Zuiganji Temple, the cruise, and Oshima and Fukuurajima islands, and public information on Matsuo Basho work Oku no Hosomichi. That Basho is said to have visited Matsushima is based on widely known literary history and public information. Zuiganji Temple visiting hours, cruise operation, and train and access conditions may change, so please confirm official information before visiting.

Visitor Checklist

• Time needed: Half a day to tour Godaido Hall, Zuiganji Temple, and a cruise, or a full day if you add a stroll on Oshima and Fukuurajima islands and a meal.
• What to prepare: You will walk the coast and islands, so comfortable shoes add comfort.
• Getting there: Reach Matsushima easily from Sendai on the JR Senseki Line; check timetables in advance.
• Suggested route: Visit Godaido Hall and Zuiganji Temple, cruise among the islands, then stroll Oshima and Fukuurajima islands.
• Nearby together: You can head on to Shiogama Shrine and the Shiogama fish market, the beaches of Shichigahama, and central Sendai, and a boat linking Shiogama and Matsushima is also a standard trip.