Hatoshi: Shrimp Paste Sandwiched and Deep-Fried

Hatoshi is a deep-fried treat unique to Nagasaki, made by sandwiching shrimp paste between slices of bread and frying them in oil. The name comes from a Cantonese word meaning shrimp toast, and the dish, long enjoyed in the Guangdong region of China, is said to have been brought from Qing China to Nagasaki during the Meiji era. In Nagasaki it is served as part of the formal shippoku cuisine, crisp and fragrant on the outside and fluffy within, packed with the rich sweetness of shrimp, so that one bite makes it hard to stop.

Highlights

The greatest appeal is the combination of freshly fried, fragrant bread and the sweetness of shrimp. The crisp bread standing in for batter and the plump paste create contrasting textures. In recent years, versions that add fish paste or hanpen alongside shrimp have appeared, each shop adding its own touch.

Enjoying the Seasons

It is a snack you can enjoy all year and is perfect for eating as you stroll. It is best savored while warm, but in the leisure season it is also lovely enjoyed while taking in the scenery. It pairs wonderfully with tea or beer.

Access and Basic Information

Once a dish of refined shippoku banquets, it is now widely enjoyed at home and in shops, and is mostly bought ready-made. You can taste it in Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown, at delicatessens around the city, and at shippoku restaurants, with easy access by streetcar from JR Nagasaki Station.

Practical Travel Notes

At delis and souvenir shops it can often be bought by the piece, a portion just right for eating as you walk. The price is modest, with shops offering it for a few hundred yen as a guide. Being deep-fried, its texture fades as time passes, so eating it on the spot is the tastiest way. If you take it home, it is still reasonably good cold, but a light reheating brings back the crispness. Strolling through Chinatown and enjoying it before or after champon or sara udon is also a fine idea.

A Quick Tip

Freshly fried and piping hot is the most delicious, so enjoying it on the spot is best. Since it is easy to eat, it also works as a first dish before champon or sara udon. At shops that handle several fillings, comparing them is a pleasant way to spend the time.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Main region where it is handed down: Nagasaki City. It was introduced from Qing China in the Meiji era and was originally one of the dishes of shippoku cuisine (Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, "Our Local Cuisine").
• Public facilities where you can buy it: Nagasaki Prefectural Products Hall (2F, Kenei Bus Terminal, 3-1 Daikoku-machi, Nagasaki City) / 9:00-18:00 (until 19:00 in July and August), closed December 29 to January 3, tel. 095-821-6580. It is in front of JR Nagasaki Station and is also listed as a retailer of the spin-off product "hatoshi roll." In recent years it has been becoming a dish bought at the shop rather than made at home.
• If you want to buy it in Tokyo: The Nagasaki Prefecture antenna shop "Nihonbashi Nagasaki-kan" (2-1-3 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku) / 10:30-19:30, open year-round except the New Year period and similar. A 1-minute walk from Exit B7 of Nihonbashi Station on the Tokyo Metro.
• Points to note: The main ingredients are minced shrimp paste and sliced bread. For frozen products it is recommended to thaw them and then reheat them in an oven toaster; a microwave is not recommended.

* Opening hours and prices at individual shops vary from shop to shop.

(Sources: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, "Our Local Cuisine: Hatoshi"; Nagasaki City official tourism website; Nagasaki Prefecture official website "Nihonbashi Nagasaki-kan"; Nagasaki Ichiban official website)

Sources of Information

This article is compiled from Nagasaki Prefecture tourism information and information published by each shop. Prices, menus and seasonal availability may change, so please check the official information of each shop for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: A few hundred yen each, very affordable
• Where to eat it: Shippoku restaurants and Chinese eateries in Nagasaki City
• Best time to go: Both lunchtime and evening. Good as a snack with drinks or a light meal
• Beating the crowds: Popular shops can get busy. Try going at off-peak times
• Enjoy it together with: Shippoku cuisine, champon noodles, and street food in Chinatown