Musashino Satoyama: Walking the Tranquil Coppice Woods Where Totoro's Forest Remains

Around Iruma, Hanno, and Hidaka in western Saitama Prefecture, the tranquil coppice woods and satoyama (rural) landscapes characteristic of the Musashino plateau still remain vividly today. The coppice woods, thick with deciduous trees such as konara and kunugi oaks, are satoyama that people once tended to obtain firewood, charcoal, and fertilizer. From the budding of spring, to the deep green shade of summer, to the yellow leaves of autumn, they show gentle, beautiful faces through all four seasons. It is a soothing area that feels like another world despite being close to the city center.

Totoro's Forest

This whole area (the Sayama Hills) is said to be one of the models for the setting of Studio Ghibli's film "My Neighbor Totoro." The Sayama Hills stretch about 11 kilometers east to west and about 4 kilometers north to south, covering an area of about 3,000 hectares across Tokyo and Saitama, and preserve the Musashino satoyama scenery to this day. The precious coppice woods, once threatened by development, have been purchased and preserved bit by bit through the National Trust activities of the "Totoro Furusato Fund," begun in 1990, and dot the area as "Totoro's Forest." Walking the paths where sunlight filters through the trees, you can feel as if you have wandered into the world of the story, where Totoro seems about to appear.

Hiking and Nature Observation

Easy-to-walk hiking courses are maintained in the Musashino satoyama, and you can stroll leisurely while observing birdsong, trees, and wild plants. The old-fashioned scenery of "yato" valleys where spring water flows, and encounters with seasonal wild plants such as katakuri and kinran, are also charms. It is a satoyama rich in living things, home to mammals such as foxes and tanuki, and birds such as goshawks and owls. You can enjoy satoyama walking that heals you with nature and lets you forget daily life. In nearby Hanno City there is also the popular spot "Tove Jansson Akebono Children's Forest Park," modeled on the world of a Nordic story.

Access and Basic Information

The nearest stations of each hill serve as starting points, and you can access the areas around Totoro's Forest by bus or on foot from stations on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line. The "Tove Jansson Akebono Children's Forest Park" in Hanno City has free admission and free parking, and is within walking distance of "Motokaji Station" on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line. Since there are many natural mountain paths within the hills, visit in easy-to-walk shoes and clothing.

Practical Travel Notes

April to May, when the fresh greenery is dazzling, and November, dyed with autumn colors, are especially beautiful times. In summer the tree shade is cool, and in winter you can enjoy strolling the bright, leafless coppice woods. Because Totoro's Forest is scattered in many places throughout the Sayama Hills, it is recommended to check locations in advance via the Totoro Furusato Fund's guidance and plan a manageable route. Combining a hill walk with the Akebono Children's Forest Park and the surrounding satoyama makes for a varied day. Do not forget insect repellent and drinks.

A Word of Advice

Totoro's Forest is a precious, preserved natural environment. Walk while observing manners that cherish the satoyama, such as not picking plants and carrying out your trash. The gentle scenery unique to coppice woods shaped by human hands has a different flavor in each of the four seasons. Though within easy reach by train from the city center, this area's charm is that you can encounter a stillness that makes you want to take a deep breath.

📚 Sources

This article is based on materials on satoyama conservation in the Sayama Hills, guidance for the National Trust activity of the Totoro Hometown Fund, and tourism information for the Iruma, Hanno and Hidaka area. It also draws on guidance for the Tove Jansson Akebono Children's Forest Park in Hanno City. Each spot's opening status and the locations of the Totoro forests may change, so please confirm with official sources before you go.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time: Adding Akebono Children's Forest Park or nearby satoyama to a hill walk makes for a varied day.
• How to get around: The Totoro forests are scattered across the Sayama Hills, so check locations via the Totoro Hometown Fund and plan a manageable course.
• What to bring: Comfortable shoes and clothing, as many trails are natural mountain paths; do not forget insect repellent and drinks.
• Best season: April to May for fresh greenery and November for autumn colors are especially beautiful.
• Access: Reach the Totoro forests by bus or on foot from stations on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.
• Etiquette: This is protected, valuable nature, so do not pick plants and carry out your trash.